Inside 7 sumptuous Peranakan restaurants across Southeast Asia

In the main dining hall, local mural artist Andha Ras adorned the walls with a stylised depiction of the owner of the long family-run eatery, while autumnal floral bouquets by Lervish Flower Couture complement the royal blue theme. 

Another collaborating wall artist decorated the VIP room with faux paintings for a textured effect, where a Tok Panjang, crafted by reclaimed wood specialists, seats up to 12 guests.

Renowned for its authentic and time-honoured recipes, signature dishes at Aunty Gaik Lean’s include pie tee, gulai tumis made with over eight ingredients, and the traditional nasi ulam.

1, Bishop Street, 10200 George Town, Penang

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Bringing a contemporary twist to classical Peranakan fare, Kuala Lumpur’s Bōl highlights the interplay between traditional and modern elements while transporting guests to a tropical rainforest.

Designed by co-owner Kian Liew, the restaurant and bar in one of the pre-war terrace houses along Jalan Sin Chew Kee features an unassuming façade with its crisp exterior and contemporary outdoor furniture.

Inside, mesmerising maximalist-style wallpaper by Cole & Son encases the space, with its faint imprint that recalls Peranakan floral motifs offering a stunning highlight in the conservatory-inspired private room on the top floor.

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Against the backdrop of slatted timber walls in sage green, arched alcoves and rattan-panelled seats in terracotta, distinguished guests savour Bōl’s farm-to-table signatures: buah keluak lamb shank served with sautéed daikon, Itek Tim, a crystal-clear pulled duck consommé with sour plums, and the succulent Rendang Wagyu braised in homemade rempah (spice paste) and toasted desiccated coconut.

15, Jalan Sin Chew Kee, Bukit Bintang, 50150 Kuala Lumpur

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Located in Dempsey Hill, in a space that was once a British military barracks in the 1850s, Candlenut’s aesthetic was designed by renowned Milanese architect Paola Navone, who drew inspiration from a trip to Melaka with Chef Malcolm Lee to explore rich Peranakan traditions.

The world’s first Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant retains its original high ceilings, abundant windows, and wide doorways, creating a naturally breezy atmosphere that complements Singapore’s tropical climate.

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Authentic tiles adorned with Peranakan ornamental patterns grace the interior, paying homage to the culture’s intricate artistry. Whereas, handcrafted woven lamps, inspired by the work of local artisans from Melaka, draw attention to the central dining area, creating a mesmerising canopy that reflects the restaurant’s ethos of marrying authenticity with modernity.

The light, airy ambiance is further enhanced by a carefully curated colour palette and furnishings that embody the simplicity and traditionalism inherent in Peranakan cuisine.

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This design approach provides a fitting backdrop for Chef Lee’s contemporary take on Straits-Chinese dishes, such as the deep-fried Fremantle octopus with lemongrass, and the buah keluak ice cream dessert served with valrhona chocolate, chilli, and warm chocolate espuma.

17a, Dempsey Road, 249676 Singapore

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For The Kam Cheng in Melaka, interior design studio Tao Design embraces a neo-Peranakan design narrative that retains traditional elements for contemporary times.

The deep teal, bright coral, and lush emerald greens that dominate the space not only reflect the bold and intricate nature of the Peranakan culture, but also bring the greenery from outside in through the glass-panelled walls, creating a warm and welcoming ambiance.

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Arranged strategically upon the arched shelves at the centre of the restaurant is an exquisite display of the vibrant ‘Kam Cheng’ porcelain collection. These pieces serve as both a striking visual backdrop for capturing memorable moments and a cultural statement showcasing the rich heritage of Peranakan craftsmanship.

These include classics like the Buah Keluak Ayam, a spicy and tangy Nyonya stew chicken; the Pong Tau Hu poached in a double prawn broth with julienned bamboo shoot; and the woodfire-grilled Babi Assam marinated in tamarind juice.

1, Jalan KSB 1, Taman Kota Syahbandar, 75200 Melaka

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Crafted by LAANK, Violet Oon’s outlet at the National Gallery Singapore reflects the namesake’s significant influence on Peranakan cuisine in Singapore; a design narrative consistently applied across multiple outlets nationwide, while adapting to each specific location.

Reminiscent of home kitchens, the show kitchens create an intimate dining experience as if guests were in Violet’s own home. Here, a thoughtful balance of rich and quintessential Southeast Asian materials converges to elevate the “home-dining” essence of Peranakan cooking.

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Dark timber, brass, and leather accents harmonise with rattan and vintage Peranakan tiles salvaged from old shophouses, paying homage to the culture’s long-standing heritage.

The deep emerald green colour scheme mirrors both the influence of Peranakan tile designs and Violet’s Chinese name, Jade. Long communal tables encourage interaction, while walls lined with framed photos tell Violet’s life story.

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Amidst this homely ambiance, standout dishes are served, including grilled king oyster mushroom in a creamy turmeric-infused coconut sauce, red snapper fish head curry, and black glutinous rice with coconut milk ice cream.

1, St Andrew’s Road, #02–01 National Gallery, 178957 Singapore

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Heavily inspired by the Baba-Nyonya culture and interior designer Agam Riadi’s childhood in Cirebon, Meradelima in Jakarta exudes an elegant yet nostalgic ambiance that transports diners to a bygone era of cultural fusion.

Warm and inviting, the interior features a vibrant array of classical elements including kebaya, batik, vintage furniture, porcelain, and sculptures, transforming the space into a living art gallery.

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Meradelima’s menu complements the visual feast, with dishes such as Pindang Saudagaran (milkfish in traditional Peranakan sweet and sour broth), Aneka Sate with various flavours, and desserts like Dji Sam Soe (deep-fried fermented cassava with vanilla ice cream) and Kue Sagu Rangi (traditional sago starch cake with coconut and melted palm sugar).

Jl. Adityawarman No.47, Kebayoran Baru, 12110 Jakarta, Indonesia

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Situated in The Orangery of the picturesque Singapore Botanic Gardens, Chef Malcolm Lee's other venture, Pangium, is named after the pangium edule tree that grows from the buah keluak seed, Lee’s favourite ingredient.

Designed by Kay Ngee Tan Architects, the façade is envisioned as an extension of Inverturret, a neighbouring black-and-white heritage bungalow. It showcases interlocking terracotta cladding and wood panels for a sense of movement and depth, while the curved form resembles a flower with petals unfurling towards the sky.

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The interior of the mod-Peranakan restaurant, on the other hand, is designed by Singaporean design practice Lekker Architects, which centres on geometry drawn from Peranakan historic aesthetics found in architecture and clothing, such as the kebaya.

The cloth ceiling, reminiscent of rudimentary box kites, serves as the centrepiece, billowing above a neutral palette of tiles, micro-cement flooring, and wooden elements, complementing the panoramic views of the surrounding greenery.

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This deliberately understated atmosphere serves as a “staging theatre” for the 2023 Tatler Dining Award recipient’s tasting menu-only offerings of traditional flavours with contemporary flair: nasi ulam with smoked fish sambal, pang susi (traditional Eurasian buns filled with rich Iberico pork cheek), and the Eastern Javanese rawon (beef bone soup infused with buah keluak).

11 Gallop Road, Singapore Botanic Gardens–Gallop Entrance, 259015 Singapore

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