Shibata at the entrance to the sushi bar of Kazu KL
Cover Norikazu Shibata at the entrance to the sushi bar of Kazu KL

We get a closer look at the celebrated chef's notable career and dedication to his diners

“I didn’t like studying, and I just loved cooking,” laughed Norikazu Shibata, the illustrious executive sushi chef of Kazu KL. His passion for the culinary arts was apparent from the beginning, and over four decades, he has carved a remarkable career that spans the globe, centred around his love for preparing and sharing food.

Read more: 5 things you probably didn't know about sushi

Ranked as one of Tatler Dining's Top 20 Restaurant in 2023, Kazu KL adheres to a philosophy of simplicity, allowing the quality of ingredients to take centre stage. We recently sat down with the esteemed chef to closely examine his international career and commitment to serving authentic Edomae sushi.

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Shibata preps and slices his fish before every service
Above Shibata preps and slices his fish before every service

"I started as a 16-year-old sushi apprentice in Tokyo, dreaming of owning my own sushi restaurant one day," the 57-year old Shibata reminisced. His journey took him far and wide, from Hong Kong to Zimbabwe, before finally settling in Malaysia, where he made a name for himself in the local Japanese dining scene, transforming what was once Sushi Kazu into the sprawling Kazu KL at The Five @ KPD

Before setting up his career in Kuala Lumpur, Shibata honed his craft as a trainee in Tokyo for several years and headed to Hong Kong to take his career to the international level. “Hong Kong was my first time leaving Japan for work,” says Shibata. “I always wanted to work overseas, and my mentor recommended Hong Kong as the place to start. Before that, everything I did for work was in Tokyo.”

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Shibata makes the weekly calls to the fish suppliers himself, ensuring everything is quality checked
Above Shibata makes the weekly calls to the fish suppliers himself, ensuring everything is quality checked
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Prepping chu-toro for dinner service
Above Prepping chu-toro for dinner service

After nine years in the city, Shibata left with a wealth of experience and some Cantonese tucked in his back pocket. He returned to Japan to continue working for a couple of years before he packed his bags for Harare, Zimbabwe.

Shibata spent two years in Zimbabwe and returned to Tokyo for another year. Eventually, the seasoned chef went to South Africa, where he met his wife. “My wife is South African, and now, we have two kids,” beams Shibata. “But my kids can [only speak a little bit of] Japanese, so we usually speak English at home.”

See also: 6 beautiful Tokyo cafes where the design is as good as the coffee

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Slicing fish for sushi and sashimi takes focus and precision
Above Slicing fish for sushi and sashimi takes focus and precision

After spending five years in South Africa, Shibata embarked on a new chapter in his life, this time with his beloved family by his side, as they journeyed to Guangzhou, China, for another work opportunity. For six years, they embraced the vibrant city’s culture as Shibata further honed his skills before returning again to Tokyo, but as fate would have it, his path took an unexpected turn.

“I thought I could move back with my wife and kids, but there were issues with their visas, so they went back to South Africa, and I stayed in Tokyo alone,” explains Shibata. “So, I continued looking for opportunities outside of Japan, where I could work and [reunite] with my family.”

While searching for a new home, Shibata was adamant about staying in Asia and eventually landed in Malaysia. “I chose Malaysia because it [is home] so many cultures and also has a big Japanese population,” shares Shibata. 

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Shibata has perfected his craft through his decades of experience
Above Shibata has perfected his craft through his decades of experience

Shibata’s initial foray into the Malaysian dining scene saw him working with the esteemed Japanese restaurant chain, Kampachi at its now-closed Troika location, where he worked for five years before stumbling upon an opportunity to open his restaurant for the first time. “The biggest challenge for me was to build my customer base and to start communicating with them to build a relationship,” recalls Shibata.

Prior to opening Sushi Kazu, Shibata was used to having his menu decided for him and serving what the restaurant offered. However, with Sushi Kazu, it was an opportunity for Shibata to call the shots and truly embrace the omakase concept. “[It was also a challenge] to make sure I wasn’t serving the same thing every day,” recounts Shibata. “Even if I serve tuna for a few days in a row, I try to change a bit here and there, like the garnish or preparation method.”

Don't miss: 10 of the best omakase experiences in the Klang Valley

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Chutoro (middle fatty tuna) nigiri
Above Chutoro (middle fatty tuna) nigiri

Despite Japanese cuisine being so prevalent in Kuala Lumpur, there are still diners who might need to learn more about sushi and sashimi. With this, Shibata has also made it his mission to educate diners about the intricacies of sushi.

“Some customers actually don’t know how to accept eating raw fish,” shares Shibata. “The way I introduce them to it is by torching the fish slightly before serving. For the first time, I might torch it to about eighty per cent [doneness], and slowly decrease the torching with each visit and eventually have them enjoying raw sashimi and sushi.”

Shibata also displays his care and commitment to his regular diners by understanding their preferences. “I can remember the likes and dislikes of my regulars, so I know exactly what to serve them when they dine with us and make sure their experience is customised,” enthuses Shibata. “I’ve also realised Malaysians love their oily fishes like tuna!”

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Nigiri duo
Above Nigiri duo

Dining at a sushi counter is one of the most intimate dining experiences you can immerse yourself in with the sushi chef working directly in front of you. Shibata emphasises the importance of knowing your diners and vice versa. “Having a great meal works both ways and runs off of a mutual understanding between me and my diners,” says Shibata.

At Kazu KL, Shibata handles everything from sourcing supplies to deciding on the menu. “I tend to decide on my fish purely by how I feel,” grins Shibata. “If I see something special from the season, I’d definitely order it, but I also tend to choose the fish that I would like to work with for the week.”

Going beyond the fish, Shibata also calls the shots with how the rice is served at Kazu KL. “With the rice, I decide on its preparation depending on the fish we are serving, but also on the weather sometimes,” says Shibata. “On colder, rainy days, the rice I serve is slightly warmer and vice versa.”

Read more: Kyoto Calling: 5 trendy cafés to visit while exploring the Japanese city

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Shibata at the entrance to the sushi bar of Kazu KL
Above Shibata at the entrance to the sushi bar of Kazu KL

Through his experience with the Kazu brand, Shibata has now built a home for himself and his family in Malaysia. “Even our dinners at home are simple Malaysian-Chinese dishes,” shares Shibata. “I love Malaysian food and prefer local Chinese food for my meals outside the restaurant.”

As for his hopes for Kazu, Shibata aims to be one of the best in the country. “With better customer relationships, skills, and offerings, I want to become one of Malaysia’s top Japanese restaurants,” says Shibata with a confident smile on his face.

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Photography  

Daniel Adams

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