(Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)
Cover Jadeite beads sold by Bonham’s in November 2022 (Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)

Ahead of Lunar New Year, Tatler takes a closer look at what makes jade a favourite in Asian communities around the world

From the bustling markets of Hong Kong to the serene temples of Thailand, the stone known as 玉 (yù) in Chinese—a term that encompasses both jadeite and nephrite—is deeply entwined with the fortunes of the coming year. Found in shades of emerald, sage and celadon, jadeite is the rarer and harder of the two stones. Nephrite’s subtle palette encompasses white, grey and celadon hues. While less precious than jadeite, its toughness allows intricate carvings not possible with the more delicate mineral. Nephrite resonates with ancient Chinese spiritual traditions. From Confucius to Taoist sages, this stone signified virtue and wisdom. Across dynasties, nephrite adorned statues, vessels and ornaments.

As families gather to welcome in the Lunar New Year, many turn to jade as a protector and guide. It is customary for parents to give their children small jade pendants in the shape of animals from the Chinese zodiac, especially if the coming year corresponds with the child’s birth sign. These pendants are more than mere ornaments; they are amulets meant to safeguard the wearer and provide them with guidance and clarity.

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Tatler Asia
Michelle Ong (Photo: courtesy of Carnet by Michelle Ong)
Above Michelle Ong (Photo: courtesy of Carnet by Michelle Ong)
Tatler Asia
(Photo: courtesy of Carnet by Michelle Ong)
Above Carnet’s jade emerald, ruby, coloured sapphire, garnet and amethyst brooch pendant in 18-karat white gold and titanium (Photo: courtesy of Carnet by Michelle Ong)

The importance of jade extends beyond the borders of China, appearing in many of the cultures that celebrate the Lunar New Year. In Singapore and Malaysia, with their large ethnic Chinese population, jade jewellery is often worn during festive celebrations as a statement of cultural identity and a talisman to attract good luck and prosperity. Similarly, in the Philippines, where a significant Chinese-Filipino community observes the holiday, jade stands as a symbol of the enduring connection to their heritage and is a prominent feature in the New Year festivities. In Indonesia, where the Lunar New Year is known as Imlek, jade is respected among the diverse cultures, many of which attribute unique powers to the stone, such as cleansing, good fortune, good health and prosperity.

The allure of the stone has permeated the palaces and temples of Thailand, with lore speaking of the precious stone being placed within the temples as offerings to Buddha, believed to bring peace and enlightenment. This approach continues in another form across cultures today. “Those [who] believe in Buddhism opt for Guanyin- [bodhisattva of compassion] or Buddha-shaped jadeite for protection. There is a saying that men wear Guanyin while women wear Buddha,” says Austy Lee, founder of his eponymous high jewellery brand in Hong Kong. He explains that the Guanyin’s soft heart and dignified manners “can eliminate a man’s violent temper, keep things clear and [allow them to] stay away from evil”, while “Buddha promotes a woman’s calmness and open-mindedness”.

For eons, jade has been more than a mere ornament; it has served as an emblem of the Chinese ethos. “Jade always embodies harmony, virtue and eternity,” Lee says. The Chinese proverb “Gold has a value; jade is invaluable” perfectly encapsulates its incalculable worth, he adds, driven by the virtues it represents.

He goes on to explain some of the ancient jade species that were revered, such as Shoushan jade; Xiu jade; chicken blood stone; and Hetian jade, a type of nephrite: “Hetian mutton fat white jade was the leader of the trade. It was revered for its warm, delicate texture.” But it was the imperial green jade beads worn by Empress Dowager Cixi that cemented jadeite’s status as a symbol of royalty, he says.

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Tatler Asia
Stewart Young (Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)
Above Stewart Young (Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)
Tatler Asia
(Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)
Above Tricoloured jadeite Ruyi Guanine figurine sold by Bonham’s in November 2023 (Photo: courtesy of Bonham’s)

In China particularly, jade is considered a symbol of purity, grace and moral integrity. Stewart Young, Bonhams’ Asia head of jewellery, says, “When I was young, I [loved] the gemstone, especially jadeite, because I was surrounded by relatives that wore jadeite.” An aunt once wanted to remake her jade ring into a pair of earrings as it had become too tight for her, he adds, but none of the jade experts in Hong Kong dared to disrespect the stone. Then one day, as she clutched her desk to get up, the ring split into perfect halves under her weight. “It’s as if the jade knew what she wanted,” he says, illustrating the belief that jade can protect its wearer, even altering its form to meet their needs.

Michelle Ong, co-founder and creative director of Hong Kong-based Carnet Jewellery, says jade is revered for reasons that have deep roots in the culture. “Jade was thought to be the intermediary between heaven and Earth. This is largely due to its extraordinary qualities: it has exceptional electro-magnetic properties, it is cool to the touch, immutable and possesses a musical resonance when struck.” Jade, the “stone of heaven”, with its mesmerising colour, “was prized for its otherworldly beauty, rarity, strength and inner light, and associated with prosperity, good fortune and longevity”. Emperors like Qianlong (1711-1799) of the Qing dynasty were known for their collections of jade artefacts, believing in their power to communicate with the celestial realms and, as Ong explains, “Confucius aligned the properties of jade with virtues of wisdom, justice, compassion, purity and modesty.”

A belief in jade’s mystical properties can be seen in the way it is incorporated into daily life during the New Year period. “In ancient Chinese culture, there were spiritual healing and [mystical] uses of jade, such as channelling spirits; the stone was also used as medicine,” says Lee. “In [medicine books] Huangdi Neijing [The Yellow Emperor’s Inner Canon] and Bencao Gangmu [Compendium of Materia Medica], it was mentioned that jade can be used as medicine to strengthen the mind and body. Some said jade was used as a cleansing stone, helping to detox and alleviate pain. Ancient books also stated that using jade as a bed will make people sleep better.”

A lot of these beliefs have been passed down through the generations. Today, the stone is often placed in important areas of the home, thought to create a favourable chi flow that will bring harmony and balance throughout the year. Even the act of giving jade as a gift is laden with symbolism; it is a gesture that expresses not just affection but a desire for the recipient’s life to be filled with good fortune. “People wear jade during the Chinese New Year to ward off bad luck and promote good fortune,” Lee says. “It is traditional to wear or gift a ‘peace buckle,’ a flat, doughnut-shaped disc symbolising blessings and protection.”

The story of the stone’s discovery, as traders found pebbles in the rivers of what was then called Burma, is as colourful as the stone itself. “Jadeite only made its way to China during the Qing dynasty,” Young explains, referring to China’s last imperial dynasty that lasted from 1644 to 1911. “It was called ‘fei cui’ after a bird with red and green plumage, reflecting the stone’s two most celebrated colours.” These various shades of jade are not only aesthetically valuable; they have different qualities attributed to them, Ong explains. “White jade suggests purity and serenity, lavender means loyalty and truth, and black jade signifies strength and power”. Young adds: “In the old days in Hong Kong and Taiwan, icy jade [a translucent variety of jade] was discarded into the sea. Colourless and unwanted, it was seen as worthless. A friend of mine has a shop in Causeway Bay. [Years ago,] whenever she sold a green jadeite pendant, she would give away icy jade as a gift. But now, icy jade, with its icy translucency, is admired for its glassy quality and has seen a phenomenal increase in demand over the past 15 to 20 years.”

The exorbitant prices of pure green jadeite, meanwhile, are due to its scarcity, says Young. “Green [jade] is so rare in a big boulder. I sold a pair of very expensive jadeites [at Bonhams] and, upon asking the seller [who brought the jadeites to the auction house] how he found this, he told me he cut it himself from a rock the size of about four shoeboxes. He traced a faint green line and carefully cut two pieces of pure green jade plaque from the vein.” The rest of the material was icy jadeite and worthless to him. In a jade mine, “only two per cent of the jade is green; that’s how rare it is,” says Young.

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Tatler Asia
Austy Lee (Photo: courtesy of Austy Lee)
Above Austy Lee (Photo: courtesy of Austy Lee)
Tatler Asia
(Photo: courtesy of Austy Lee)
Above The Blue Bird Feather brooch by Austy Lee (Photo: courtesy of Austy Lee)

Supplies of jade are generally dwindling, particularly due to the political situation in Myanmar. Lee says, “The price of jadeite has been increasing like crazy since the beginning of [last] year, with top quality almost doubling.” And if you’re going to be paying top dollar, it’s even more important to check authenticity and buy from a reputable source.

Both Ong and Lee see jade maintaining its integral role in Chinese culture, and Lee envisions a global expansion too. “As jadeite goes global, it brings new opportunities in European and American markets.” One global jeweller has already contributed to jade’s growing popularity worldwide, adds Young. “Cartier was the pioneer of incorporating jade into western luxury jewellery. Although the jadeite pieces brought back [to its workshops from the east] by Cartier were not of the highest quality, the brand’s creations became signature pieces that inspired many to follow.”

Ong continues to reinvent jade’s place in modern jewellery, ensuring that its thread in the fabric of history remains unbroken. “I incorporate the traditional jade circle—a symbol of eternity and rebirth—into a design of chain links, draping the circle in diamond swags. I [also] use streamlined, graphic shapes for my jade elements, or I may mix my references, adding gourd-shaped jade elements into an Egyptian-style collar.”

And jade’s significance will only grow, she adds. “The amuletic associations of jade remain strong today, but it is now also appreciated for its rarity, as a store of wealth—a family heirloom.”

As the Lunar New Year celebrations kick off, jade stands as a testament to enduring traditions, a guardian of the past and a harbinger of prosperity for the year to come. Through the hands of contemporary jewellery artisans, jade’s story is not just preserved but is being told anew: a tale of beauty and virtue, and an evergreen symbol of cultural pride.

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