Get insider tips on how to style jewellery (Photo: Getty Images)
Cover Get insider tips on how to style jewellery (Photo: Getty Images)

Our jewellery FAQ series answers the most commonly asked questions about jewellery, such as buying guidance, care tips and styling advice. This month, we discuss how to style jewellery correctly with Elizabeth Li, founder of Hong Kong atelier Avia Diamonds

People love jewellery for many reasons—some might have sentimental value to us, while others we love purely for aesthetic reasons. But jewellery enthusiasts might sometimes also need guidance to navigate this intricate and fascinating world. So whether you are looking for buying advice or care tips, our jewellery FAQ series is here to provide you with all the information, recommendation and clarification you need.

In the first installment of our series we delve into the topic of jewellery styling. Jewellery styling is an art in itself. Done right, it elevates your look, and is a means of expressing personal style. But knowing how to get it right can be a little tricky at times. How does one choose the right accessories for different occasions? How does one add a personal touch? How can one best mix metals and stones? To help answer these commonly asked questions, we turn to Hong Kong-based jeweller Elizabeth Li, the founder of Avia Diamonds, who descends from three generations of fine jewellery craftsmen in the city, and who has a passion for creating modern heirlooms.

Here, she shares insider tips on building curated collections, styling for occasions, layering intentionally, and more.

Don’t miss: 5 Hong Kong jewellery brands to add some sparkle to your Christmas and New Year

Tatler Asia
Elizabeth Li (Photo: Courtesy of Elizabeth Li/Avia Diamonds)
Above Elizabeth Li (Photo: Courtesy of Elizabeth Li/Avia Diamonds)

How do I style jewellery?
Styling jewellery should be fun and should reflect your personal style. It’s a combination of mood and occasion, mixing up subtle finishes and fine details to create a look that feels personal and effortlessly curated. With the foundation of everyday staples, jewellery can be dressed up or down. Your choice should reflect your mood: whether you’re feeling playful and want to add colours or if you want more proper aesthetics with pearls or an edgy look with chunky chains. The occasion then dictates the size and impact of these pieces.

Also make sure your jewellery and watch complement each other. We recently customised an eternity ring with emerald-cut sapphires for a client to match her Patek Philippe Nautilus Ladies Rose Gold Baguette Cognac bezel watch, which she also stacks with her diamond eternity ring.

How do I know what kind of jewellery suits me?
There is no right or wrong piece; jewellery evokes emotions and tells a story, it suits you when it makes you feel happy. From a more technical perspective, it’s about creating the right rendition of the design with the appropriate scale and silhouette that is most flattering on you.

For example, certain earrings are more flattering to certain face and ear shapes. When we customise drop earrings, we suggest a design that is wider at the bottom for a heart-shaped face to balance the jawline. For a round-shaped face, we suggest one that lengthens the facial silhouette—as opposed to widening it. Then the ear shape is taken into consideration: the size of the earlobe, where the piercing is in relation to the earlobe and face; where we adjust the design and the position of the post, to make sure they are flattering and comfortable. Nuances are important in fine jewellery.

Engagement rings are also made in relation to the stone, the ring design and also the hands, to ensure it suits one in the most flattering way. Certain diamond shapes, such as oval and emerald-cut elongate the fingers. But most importantly, it’s what you like.

What kind of jewellery should I wear based on occasion?
How I approach this is to consider the dress code for the occasion, and then decide what jewellery works best to accentuate the outfit. Also make sure the scale, colour and the overall aesthetics are harmonious.

Everyday jewellery can vary with your personal style and lifestyle, as long as you feel comfortable and confident, and appropriate in the workplace. For cocktail and evening wear, accent the outfit with a little more: be it with pearls, a larger pair of diamond clusters or tennis necklace. Black-tie events allow you to dial decadence to the max—so bring out those show-stopping drop earrings or diamond bracelets.

How do I make my fine jewellery look classy?
We see a gradual shift in fashion, with quiet luxury and easy elegance becoming ubiquitous. Choose high-quality pieces with fine craftsmanship, because the details set them apart. Nuances between designs may seem subtle at first, but the setting and sizing of stones can greatly affect the finished piece. Intricate details, fine craftsmanship, and high-quality materials are essential in finding long-term pieces for your jewellery collection.

How do I choose the right jewellery colour for myself?
Conventional rules say that cool skin tones (where veins appear blue or purple) look better in white/silvery metals like white gold, platinum, titanium, and warm skin tones (veins appear green) better suit yellow-gold. The best way is to simply try it on, and that goes for choosing gemstones and coloured diamonds too.

Today, mixed metal jewellery is more modern than ever. Whether it’s white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, or any other variation, combining materials is an effortless way to add intrigue to your look. The two-tone trend is evident and growing in both demi- and fine-jewellery.

How can I creatively style my necklaces? 
Necklace layering has become the modus operandi for jewellery lovers. In 2024, necklace stack is more ordered—think clean lines and sleek chains with an emphasis on mixing up subtle finishes and fine details.

Layering necklaces is all about length and balance: begin with a 12-inch collar, then add a 16-inch necklace, and finally a longer chain with a pendant. For the extra sparkle, add a thin tennis necklace or two, but mindfully select a suitable size to match your existing collection.

For those that want something one-of-a-kind, our background in diamond-cutting allows us to bring you specially cut diamonds, such as a star-shaped diamond or even carat-specific for a special date.

Any must-have jewellery pieces I should invest in that are good for all seasons?
Diamond bracelets look great on everyone. Smart enough for the office and glamorous enough for black-tie dinners, they will never go out of style and can be worn from day to night. The classic tennis bracelet stacks well with all bracelets and watches, with many renditions and carat sizes to suit your personal style.

A good pair of diamond earrings draws the eyes to your face and frames it. It literally brings light and sparkle to your face. Diamond studs are always flattering; and you can never have too many pairs. Begin with a pair of classic round, then other fancy-shapes such as asscher or emerald-cut, explore colour diamonds and carat sizes as you build your collection. These are modern heirlooms that can be passed down through generations.

What are the most common jewellery styling mistakes? How can I avoid them?
Too much jewellery can feel overwhelming and clashing. I like ensembles to be cohesive, not busy and distracting. I love layering and stacking, but with bigger statement pieces, it could sometimes be too much if they clash in a way that creates chaos. When in doubt, remove one piece and assess the overall aesthetics again. 

I don’t believe in faux pas when it comes to mixing gemstones or metals, when it’s done right and tastefully, it can be interesting to break the rules, and mix and match.

Topics