The collection’s origin story began four years ago, when a rare 910-carat rough diamond of the finest D colour and Type IIA clarity was presented to Van Cleef & Arpels. Sourced from a mine the maison has partnered with for decades, it was one of the largest rough diamonds in existence. The maison’s gem experts were awestruck by its outstanding quality and knew it must become the centrepiece for a special creation. 

After carefully cleaving the rough diamond, preserving over half its original mass, the artisans set about assembling its 67 diamonds totalling up to over 441.75 carats into 25 unique high jewellery mystery set pieces. Chapter one of Legend of Diamonds, which debuted in July 2022, shows off these precious stones using Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic mystery settings, and accented with rubies, sapphires or rare emeralds. 

See also: Louis Vuitton’s artistic director of watches and jewellery on her signature style, daring diamond cuts and why high jewellery isn’t just for special occasions

Two months later, chapter two in Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations was unveiled at Paris couture week 2022: the high jewellery collection, Legend of Diamonds. “[It] truly pays tribute to the purity, the beauty of diamonds,” says Clody. “Diamonds have been at the heart of the maison since its creation.” Chapter two of the collection presents 82 dazzling diamond creations, this time drawing inspiration from heritage designs across different eras, and serve as sparkling demonstrations of the maison’s mastery.

Each design pays homage to an archival creation, like the show-stopping Envol de Diamant necklace inspired by a 1950s aviation-themed commission. “Marcel Dassault, who was the king of aviation back then, wanted to offer a special necklace to a woman pilot,” Clody tells us. Namely, Jacqueline Auriol, the first European woman to break the sound barrier in flight. The bold commission from French industrialist Dassault resulted in an elegant gold and diamond necklace that represented flight and inspired the Envol de Diamant necklace in the Legend of Diamonds collection, which features a cascade of stones that is reminiscent of the skies.

However, Clody’s favourite remains the Chevron Mysterious necklace because of the creative spirit of freedom it embodies, “the necklace can be worn in six different ways”. While the chevron necklace is “her dream piece”, Clody admits that on a more affordable note, she is “a big fan of the Face À Face clips because it is a metaphor for the [ballerina] dancers: it’s geometric, it’s art deco, and very playful”. Like the Chevron Mysterious necklace, Clody appreciates how the clips can be worn “together or separately” in many different styles as well.

Another piece favoured by the managing director is the Chrysler earrings. She says they are “[designed as] a metaphor of the Chrysler building in New York because New York’s architecture is [closely interlinked with] the art deco period”. When asked about Van Cleef & Arpels’ strong ties to The Big Apple, she says, “At the beginning of the World War two, the founding family of [Van Cleef & Arpels] had to escape France” and they established a workshop in New York to continue their business from there. “That’s also why one American out of two would tell you that Van Cleef & Arpels is an American [brand], which it is not. But they tend to believe it’s part of their heritage.” 

Showcased amidst the glamour of Hong Kong, Legend of Diamonds is a fitting tribute to the world’s most alluring gemstone. “I think a diamond, if not universal, is transversal,” says Clody. “[It ensures] there is an appetite for knowledge, for learning, for real meaning.” And through this collection, Van Cleef & Arpels continues its legacy of bringing enchantment and wonder to the realm of high jewellery.

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