Cover Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, wearing Kimai fine jewellery (Photo: Getty Images)
Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, wearing Kimai fine jewellery (Photo: Getty Images)
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The Duchess of Sussex came under fire for reportedly wearing lab-grown diamonds on a royal jaunt—and she is not the only celebrity who has been under the same criticism. Tatler weighs in on the pros and cons of wearing the scorned-upon twin of naturally mined diamonds
Criticism from jewellers on Meghan Markle, the Duchess of Sussex’s decision to reportedly wear lab-grown diamonds on a royal outing back in 2019, put the natural-versus-lab-grown-diamond debate in the spotlight.
Tuyra Piccini, a London-based jewellery and diamond expert, and Eddie LeVian, a key figure in a London-based American fine jewellery brand Le Vian, both criticised Markle for reportedly accessorising with lab-grown diamonds during a visit to the UK charity Smart Works. “While lab-grown diamonds offer a more sustainable option, they still face some challenges. One of the main concerns is their lack of rarity and uniqueness, which are essential aspects of fine jewellery,” says Piccini in a press statement.
“I’m concerned people think it’s the same as a diamond,” Eddie LeVian told The Daily Mail. “It’s misleading.”
Markle is not the only celebrity who has sparked criticism for wearing lab-grown diamonds. In 2016, Harry Potter star Emma Watson made headlines when she wore a dress adorned with lab-grown diamonds to the Met Gala. Leonardo DiCaprio, known for his environmental activism, invested in Diamond Foundry in 2015, a company specialising in lab-grown diamonds. He has since been a vocal advocate for the ethical stones, even using them in the filming of The Revenant (2015), which he starred in. When Penelope Cruz launched her own collection of lab-grown diamonds with Swarovski in 2018, her designs were met with mixed reactions, with some praising her efforts to promote ethical jewellery and others expressing concerns about the potential impact on the traditional diamond market.
“By wearing lab-grown diamonds,” Piccini argues, “Meghan Markle may inadvertently undermine the importance of natural diamonds and the craftsmanship that goes into creating them.”
This debate has been ongoing in the jewellery industry, and on social media, for some time. While some applaud the production, and buying, of lab-grown diamonds as a contribution towards sustainability, others argue that it is not really a sustainable product and it may devalue the traditional diamond market.
Above Meghan Markle’s lab-grown diamonds that sparked a debate (Photo: Getty Images)
Meghan Markle’s lab-grown diamonds that sparked a debate (Photo: Getty Images)
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Created in laboratories through advanced technological processes, lab-grown or synthetic diamonds share the same physical and chemical properties as natural diamonds. The absence of mining in their production process means they are seen as a more ethical option when compared to natural diamonds, appealing to a growing consumer base that values sustainability.
However, critics like Piccini highlight the high-energy requirements and carbon emissions associated with the production of lab-grown diamonds, suggesting it’s not entirely free of environmental impact. Further concerns arise when considering the potential implications for countries like Canada, Australia, Russia, Botswana, South Africa and Angola, where economies heavily rely on diamond mining.
While the advent of “affordable diamonds” raises concerns about potentially diminishing the value and craftsmanship associated with natural diamonds, it’s hard to ignore the appeal of these lab-grown alternatives. They provide a more sustainable and accessible choice for consumers in a market traditionally dominated by high-value, natural diamonds.
Despite these concerns, and the increasing popularity of lab-grown diamonds, the market value of natural diamonds has a history of appreciating over time, solidifying them as a potentially sound investment. According to a 2020 report by Antwerp World Diamond Centre and Bain & Company, the production of lab-grown diamonds in India was expected to almost double by 2030. Moreover, in China, consumers’ openness to lab-grown diamonds has been growing. A 2018 report by Diamond Producers Association found that 70 per cent of Chinese respondents were open to buying lab-grown diamonds. However, the debate between lab-grown and natural diamonds reflects the ongoing struggle to balance sustainability, accessibility and tradition in the jewellery industry.
The market share held by synthetic, or lab-grown, diamonds has surged from 3.5 per cent in 2018 to a forecasted 16.5 per cent (equal to US$14.6 billion) in 2023, according to independent analyst Paul Zimnisky, as reported by Financial Times. Prices for a polished 1-carat natural diamond have slumped by more than a quarter since their 2022 peak to US$5,185. However, prices for synthetic diamonds have fallen even further, from more than US$5,000 per 1-carat polished stone in 2016 to US$1,425, driven by suppliers' rush into the booming market and economies of scale bringing down costs.
Despite the backlash, against Markle’s four-year-old decision to sport lab-grown diamonds casts light on the growing demand for ethical and sustainable jewellery options. Whether this choice will lead to a shift in industry standards or a revaluation of what defines luxury and value in jewellery remains to be seen.
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As the Regional Editor for Watches and Jewellery and Editorial Content Lead for Tatler GMT, Amrita Katara specialises in luxury watch and jewellery coverage across Asia, with expertise in editorial strategy, feature writing and interviews with industry leaders. Her past roles span luxury lifestyle media and client partnerships. Based in Mumbai, Amrita’s work bridges global trends and Asian market insights.
