Raja Malek shot in his home in KL, sitting comfortably on his Le Corbusier chaise lounge bought in 1980s London. Alexander Wang blazer, Comme des Garçons skirt, Jacquemus pants, all from Club 21 Multilabel
Cover Raja Malek shot in his home in KL, sitting comfortably on his Le Corbusier chaise lounge bought in 1980s London. Alexander Wang blazer, Comme des Garçons skirt, Jacquemus pants, all from Club 21 Multilabel
Raja Malek shot in his home in KL, sitting comfortably on his Le Corbusier chaise lounge bought in 1980s London. Alexander Wang blazer, Comme des Garçons skirt, Jacquemus pants, all from Club 21 Multilabel

A celebrated savant of set design, Raja Malek’s unique vision has transformed Malaysian theatre. His journey is a testament to the power of individuality and imagination

With his signature middle-parted bob and Comme des Garçons outfit, Raja Khalid Raja Mohamed Iskandar Shah—better known as Raja Malek—cuts a stylish figure.

Set designer, style icon, upcycling maverick, stylist, artist—the 65-year-old has been a protean figure for over three decades and shows no signs of slowing down. Those in the know reach out to him for his visual artistry in fashion, film and theatre—he is perhaps one of few Malaysian artists adopted and adored by both the old and new worlds of creatives. 

But for all his distinction, only a few know of his odyssey from talented hairdresser to savant set designer, celebrated around Malaysia for his work on productions such as Puteri Gunung Ledang (2006-2008), Ola Bola the Musical (2018-2019), Seven Voices (2019), and Fault Lines (2024).

It all began in 1979 London, where he pursued a hairstyling course and honed his skills over the next seven years. When he came back to KL in 1986, he built a hair salon business in KL Plaza—which moved to Concorde Hotel three years later, and attracted clients from all walks of life. It was here that he received a call from a production house, offering him a hairstyling job for a TV commercial for Bic Pen. “I wasn’t aware that you [could give] that kind of services. I just said ‘okay, I’ll do it,’” Malek shares.

Read more: The art and therapy of scrapbook journaling with Tercia Goh

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Kit Woo pants, skirt; Noir Kei Nimoniya harness, from Club 21 Multilabel
Above Kit Woo pants, skirt; Noir Kei Nimoniya harness, from Club 21 Multilabel
Kit Woo pants, skirt; Noir Kei Nimoniya harness, from Club 21 Multilabel

Impressed with his work for the Bic Pen commercial, the director referred him to another project in Jakarta, this time for the Indonesian brand Gudang Garam. “[The job was] massive—they put me up at the Hilton Hotel. They sent me on a flight, put me in a hotel and brought me a driver on call.”

He continued to impress with his creativity and attention to detail, taking on more jobs in Jakarta: “And after that, I have been flying back and forth, twice a month… for different production houses and stuff like that. And that’s how I got to know Indonesia very well because I travelled all over the country for locations to shoot, from Bali and [beyond].”

Then in 1996, he was approached by another production house in Jakarta to work on a TV commercial for the soap brand Lux, which would be an important turning point for him. During his preparation for the shoot, he was asked to step in when an art director fell ill. “The station manager asked me to take over the art directing. I said, ‘Okay.’ I designed the set, presented it to the agency, and they liked it. We shot it and that’s it. From that time onwards, the production house flew me into Jakarta for hair, make-up and art direction: I [would] do all three!”

Malek adapted effortlessly, embracing the new challenge and learning the intricacies of set design on the job—a field that lacked dedicated professionals at the time in Indonesia. His ability to create captivating scenes and style talents elevated his reputation even further.

Defying Category

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Commes des Garçons jacket; Jacquemus pants, from Club21 Multilabel
Above Commes des Garçons jacket; Jacquemus pants, from Club21 Multilabel
Commes des Garçons jacket; Jacquemus pants, from Club21 Multilabel

Of all his many skills and facets, it is stage design that Malek loves doing most. But how did he go from set design for TV commercials in Jakarta to stage design for the biggest theatre shows in Malaysia?

Incidentally, it was one of his early hairdressing clients who played another pivotal role in Malek’s move into stage design. In 1999, Dato’ Zahim Albakri, the award-winning film and television actor and director—who eventually became a very close friend—gave him the opportunity to design the set for a production of the popular Singaporean play Emily on Emerald Hill—his first design for the stage. Despite his lack of experience, Malek embraced the challenge, seized the opportunity, and the rest is history. 

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The stage sets for Puteri Gunung Ledang designed by Raja Malek: the temple stupas of Majapahit for the show’s opening scene
Above The stage sets for Puteri Gunung Ledang designed by Raja Malek: the temple stupas of Majapahit for the show’s opening scene (Photo: Enfiniti Productions)
The stage sets for Puteri Gunung Ledang designed by Raja Malek: the temple stupas of Majapahit for the show’s opening scene

Puteri Gunung Ledang—which forged an enduring collaborative relationship between Malek and the powerhouse actress-producer Puan Sri Tiara Jacquelina—was a monumental achievement in the Malaysian theatre scene. Performed at Kuala Lumpur’s Istana Budaya theatre, it went on to collect numerous awards, including for the set, where Malek’s design portrayed the majestic mountains of Bali’s Gunung Agung and Java’s Gunung Merapi.

Jacquelina says: “Chelek [one of Malek’s nicknames] created these temple stupas of Majapahit that ascended from the stage [in the show’s opening scene] … And who [among those who saw the production] could forget the grandeur of the massive and ornate Malacca Palace doors?” 

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The kabuki drop where the drapes magically open to reveal the princess’s ship ‘sailing’ across stage (Photo: Raja Malek)
Above The kabuki drop where the drapes magically open to reveal the princess’s ship ‘sailing’ across stage (Photo: Enfiniti Productions)
The kabuki drop where the drapes magically open to reveal the princess’s ship ‘sailing’ across stage (Photo: Raja Malek)

The mobile stupas used in Puteri Gunung Ledang were not just mere props, but dynamic moving elements that added depth and meaning to the performance. Malek was also one of the firsts in the country to execute a kabuki drop—an effect where suspended drapes are suddenly dropped to reveal what’s behind—for the musical’s migration scene, with the princess’s ship “masterfully crafted by Chelek, ‘sailing’ across the stage. It was breathtaking and so memorable,” says Jacquelina. The stage set was a performance in its own right.

See also: Performing arts 101: What is performance art and how is it different from visual arts or performing arts?
 

Taking Flight

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Raja Malek surrounded by his “birds” crafted from plastic waste. Comme des Garçons shirt, from Club 21 Multilabel
Above Raja Malek surrounded by his “birds” crafted from plastic waste. Comme des Garçons shirt, from Club 21 Multilabel
Raja Malek surrounded by his “birds” crafted from plastic waste. Comme des Garçons shirt, from Club 21 Multilabel

Coming up next for Malek is a collaboration with Jacquelina: the inaugural Langkawi Immersif Festival 2024, happening from May to June at the island’s Kampung Buku Event Space. The theme of the festival honours sustainability, the arts and the environment. Malek is leading the creative direction and is committed to creating an immersive art installation of bird sculptures built from repurposed plastic waste. 

A seed of an idea to build bird sculptures—inspired by the backdrop of the 100 million-year-old tropical rainforest—sent him down a research rabbit hole that eventually led to a fortuitous discovery of fascinating bird folklore and to the book The Conference of the Birds by Iranian American poet Sholeh Wolpe, a modern translation of the epic Persian poem by the 12th-century Sufi poet Attar. It tells the story of birds on a quest to find their true ruler, the Simurgh, a tale that symbolises the human journey towards enlightenment and spiritual awakening. 

 

For the installation presentation, Malek envisions arranging the sculptures on tree branches to create a cage-like structure. Mirrors will be strategically placed on the floor to reflect the sculptures above, creating an even more visually captivating effect. In addition, there will be representations of swans and “other birds that do not perch on trees”, adding another dimension to the work. This approach is in harmony with the Langkawi Immersif Festival’s objective of promoting balance between mankind and nature through creative expression and sustainable practices. And there’s no better person sitting at the intersection between sustainability and artistic creativity than Malek. 

Customising Solutions

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Malek painstakingly wove these strips to create these artworks. Rag & Bone jacket, from Club 21 Multilabel
Above Malek painstakingly wove these strips to create these artworks. Rag & Bone jacket, from Club 21 Multilabel
Malek painstakingly wove these strips to create these artworks. Rag & Bone jacket, from Club 21 Multilabel

Malek says that he uses about 40 to 60 used soft-drink plastic bottles to make one bird. The decision to use plastic waste stems from Malek’s long-standing love and instinct for upcycling. When he couldn’t afford a designer denim jacket in the Eighties, he achieved the desired look by taking matters into his own hands, opting to buy a second-hand one which he cropped and altered himself. Little did he know that this simple act of alteration would become a significant passion. At one point in the 1980s, his knack for creating unique pieces caught the attention of a fashion boutique owner in Singapore who placed an order for 12 custom-made pairs of jeans. “In the Eighties, it was called alteration; you know, it wasn’t upcycling then.” 

But his commitment to giving an item a second life doesn’t stop at fashion; it is a consistent thread in all aspects of his work and life, thanks to his deep-seated environmental consciousness and desire to put his own stamp on creations.

Zahim says, “Chelek will make things with his own hands whenever he has the opportunity, rather than purchase them, or rely on others to make them. Each piece is a unique work of art with Chelek’s inimitable handmade style to it.” 

Ivan Heng, founder and artistic director of Wild Rice, who has collaborated with Malek on several projects, says Malek’s work is “ingenious, thought-provoking and sensational, but at the same time, handmade and human”. For example, he was the mastermind behind the impressive props used during the opening and closing ceremonies of the inaugural Youth Olympic Games in 2010 in Singapore, featuring a Phoenix barge which bore the Olympic flame, and the six-metre tall “Monster” made out of recyclable materials. 

Setting the Scene

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Hand-carved panels designed and built by Raja Malek to represent the Malacca Palace doors for the ‘Puteri Gunung Ledang’ musical
Above Hand-carved panels designed and built by Raja Malek to represent the Malacca Palace doors for the ‘Puteri Gunung Ledang’ musical (Photo: Enfiniti Productions)
Hand-carved panels designed and built by Raja Malek to represent the Malacca Palace doors for the ‘Puteri Gunung Ledang’ musical

Without any formal training in set design, Malek’s creative process relies on his use of mental imagery and physical models instead of intricate drawings. Preparing Puteri Gunung Ledang, for example, was a baptism of fire in the technicalities of stage design. He says, “I had to go and study the whole stage system of Istana Budaya—which has the most sophisticated stage [in the country].” 

Says Zahim: “Although not formally trained, Chelek is self-taught and infinitely creative. He will come up with the craziest and most bizarre ideas ... and he will surprise you by creating costumes and sets so perfect for the production that you can’t imagine the show looking any other way!” For Zahim’s 1999 production of Emily on Emerald Hill, Malek envisioned an all-white museum gallery with Emily as the sole pop of colour in her vibrant kebayas and gowns. To achieve this, he used metres of white muslin bandages and packaging twine to wrap the space and props. “He is still as creative now as he was then ... in fact probably more so now,” Zahim adds.

“To remain true to the story, you gotta tell the truth”

- Raja Malek -

Heng affectionately remembers working with Malek on Puccini’s Madama Butterfly for Singapore Lyric Opera (2008), which Heng directed—“Fun fact: I bought Chelek his first scale ruler. Up to this point in his journey [as a set designer], Chelek would draw and measure everything by hand, and depend on his technicians or contractors to scale up his set. But the set for the vast Esplanade theatre [was] enormous and required precise measurements, and suffice to say, he needed a scale ruler. We remember this fondly as a milestone in our collaboration.”

Another long-time collaborator is director Ida Nerina, who says, “Chelek gives so much of himself and creative ideas and gets as excited as you may be about it. And then he just dives in, grabs it and runs with it—and good luck racing after him after that!”

Don’t miss: Jo Kukathas on theatre, her characters, and why arts should be celebrated

Telling Stories

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Above A bibliophile, Malek is surrounded by shelves of books in his home. Comme des Garçons blazer and pants, from Club 21 Multilabel

Malek shares some of the secrets to his ingenuity. For a start, even without formal training, he insists it is crucial to learn the technical aspect of design. “If you’re into fashion, at least you need to learn how to cut [and] how to sew.” He also stresses the importance of collaboration, as the creative field is not a solitary endeavour. “You need to understand and read the director’s mind very well to translate it, and it has to be a collaboration. You can’t work by yourself. Sometimes, for me, I ask directors to tell me stories or tell me the synopsis of the story and what they think about it. And while I’m listening, I find key words. It could be, say, ‘roses’; it could be anything, and I can deconstruct it, and that’s how the research begins.”

He also likes a well-crafted brief, which he says serves as the foundation for the entire design process, as storytelling lays down the groundwork for design exploration.

“When I read [a brief or script], I will start doing a brain map from the key words. Or sometimes in a story if that word [or theme] appears more than four or five times … that’s the most obvious key word. The rest is all about how we translate the brief.”

And finally, he says, “My last ingredient is research—research is important. And to remain true to the story, you gotta tell the truth.” 

Credits

Photography: Aaron Lee/Lensworks Production
Styling: Andrea Wong
Grooming: Camy Tan

Topics

Lynette Ow
Editor-in-Chief, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia
Lynette_Ow

About
Lynette loves travelling and dancing to Latin music almost as much as she enjoys period films and pastry desserts. She is constantly in search of the perfect nude lipstick and finds her best ideas through walks in nature.

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As the Editor-in-Chief of Tatler Malaysia, Lynette leads the content teams for print, digital and social media platforms of the brand. She has over 20 years experience in media, having been editorial director and editor-in-chief for lifestyle titles such as Cleo, ELLE, Esquire, Men’s Health, and Women’s Health.

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