Cover Chef Darren Chin of DC Restaurant (Photo: Fady Younis)
Chef Darren Chin of DC Restaurant (Photo: Fady Younis)
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Inspired by a globalising palate and appreciation for Asian flavours, chef Darren Chin is taking DC Restaurant to the next level
For the past decade, DC Restaurant has been regarded as one of the prime standard-bearers for fine French dining in Kuala Lumpur under the skilled hand of Chef Darren Chin. However, the acclaimed chef has now set his sights on an exciting new culinary direction - one that marries his classical French techniques with the vibrant flavours of Southeast Asia and a profound celebration of Malaysian terroir.
“Over the past decade, we’ve navigated through numerous cycles of food and presentation,” he begins, his eyes hinting at countless stories of culinary exploration. “I cannot deny the fact that the world has changed. Eating patterns also have changed. The culinary perspective of what we think and of what food is attached to has also changed. People nowadays are a lot more well-travelled and well-accustomed to different flavours,” says Chin.
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The new direction is not just a response to changing times but a personal evolution for Chef Darren. His background in French cooking has always been a foundation, but he felt a growing urge to incorporate a broader spectrum of influences.
“I felt very uncomfortable cooking something that I was unsure of, but lately, I cannot deny the fact that the palette of diners is also ever-evolving. I had to incorporate further into whatever I’d been doing before, and I needed to write down and list down the facets of how we wanted to compose the menus moving on. In the three main categories, we have the globalisation of cuisine, utilising my French roots and techniques that I’ve honed over the last few years, and most importantly, celebrating my Malaysian soul. I’m not trying to Malaysian-ise my food, but I would like to feature ingredients that can be sourced to a certain level of quality and expression,” explains Chin.
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white asparagus with black cod, Harumanis mango, and coconut
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The result is a tightly curated menu that Chin has categorised into five defining principles: Exploration, Lush & Green, Terroir Driven, Locavore, and Harmony. It’s an ethos that spotlights innovation and sustainability in equal measure.
Dishes like the white asparagus with black cod, Harumanis mango, and coconut exemplify Chin’s deft hand at melding seemingly disparate global influences. The sweet tropical notes of the mango play with the richness of the cod, while the coconut lends an unmistakable Malaysian lilt.
Likewise, the wild red coral trout with ensabi, smoked yuzu fumet, and sayur manis pomelo salad is a masterful juggling act of Japanese, French, and Malaysian tastes. It’s a shining example of Chin’s “Exploration” principle, inviting diners on an intrepid journey across cuisines.
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Above The Harumanis —Tropical mango from Perlis “Harumanis”, elderflower mango sorbet, natural sago in palm sugar, cashew nut cream
The Harumanis —Tropical mango from Perlis “Harumanis”, elderflower mango sorbet, natural sago in palm sugar, cashew nut cream
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Of course, no Malaysian feast would be complete without celebrating the country’s magnificent indigenous produce. Chin has made sourcing locally a top priority, working closely with smallholders and artisans. Sarawak black rice from Langit Collective and tropical mangoes from Perlis, which are also known as Harumanis, make star turns, redefining what locavore dining can be.
Despite its avant-garde leanings, Chin’s new menu remains grounded in an appreciation for balance and letting quality ingredients shine. The Harumanis dessert is a case in point, combining the tropical mango with elderflower sorbet, natural sago, palm sugar, and cashew cream—a harmonious symphony of sweet, floral, and nutty notes.
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Sim Wie Boon is the general manager of Tatler Malaysia. Previously the print and digital editor, Sim hails from the land of the hornbills, Sarawak. Sim is now based in Kuala Lumpur and brings more than a decade of experience in the media industry as a journalist and broadcast producer.
As a self-proclaimed geriatric millennial, he appreciates the finer things in life, from savouring a sip of single malt whisky to relishing in the deliciousness of char siew. While reminiscing about the indie-sleaze era, Sim now finds solace in the soothing tunes of ambient music, staying active through running and occasionally succumbing to the addictive world of doom scrolling.
Follow him on Instagram or Threads at @simwb
