Cover DC Restaurant's Cellar (Photo: DC Restaurant)
DC Restaurant's Cellar (Photo: DC Restaurant)
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We speak to Hafiz about what it takes to become an award-winning sommelier
While Hafiz was awarded at the Tatler Dining Awards 2024 for his expertise in wines, his official position at DC Restaurant is as general manager, where he oversees the operations of the restaurant, including its impressive cellar. While he now manages operations as if he has worked there for a decade, few know he actually hails from Langkawi, and only moved to Kuala Lumpur in 2020, after a serendipitous meeting with Chef Darren Chin in 2019.
“Having grown up on the island, I had exhausted working in the hotels in Langkawi, and a new opportunity presented itself when I met [Chin],” he recalls fondly. Hafiz was working at The Datai Langkawi at the time, which was hosting the annual Chef Series, which sees renowned international and local chefs presenting their craft at the hotel for select weekends throughout the year. “I had the honour to work with him for three nights and felt our ethos was aligned, and so I decided to take on the challenge to move to Kuala Lumpur,” the sommelier says.
Read more: Tatler Dining Awards 2024: Best of the Year Awards
Wines and service are now his bread and butter, but Hafiz worked his way up the ranks in Langkawi to get where he is today, starting as a dishwasher at a three-star hotel before joining the team of waitstaff. His foray into drinks happened in 2014, when his then-mentor, an advanced sommelier, encouraged him to enrol in a WSET wine course, providing him with a qualification in wine training and education.
“Being in Langkawi, we enjoyed duty-free privileges, so I had the chance to explore different labels myself,” he smiles. “I immediately enjoyed how it paired with food, and how every bottle and region tells a story about people and their culture.”
Since then, Hafiz has come a long way, currently looking after DC Restaurant’s cellar which is home to over a thousand labels. Taking me on a tour through the neat rows of stacked shelves, he shows me a selection of 70 wines, each being served by the glass. “We use the Coravin wine preservation system, so customers are able to explore a variety of labels without feeling forced to purchase an entire bottle,” he enthuses. The aforementioned device injects argon gas into the opened bottle, replacing the poured wine, and preserving what is left for an extensive period of time.
As the only restaurant in Malaysia as part of the Dom Pérignon society, there is also a shelf in the cellar that houses rare Dom Pérignon labels such as Plénitude 2 and Plénitude 3.
Hafiz also points out a red wine as we walk through the cellar: “This wine, Soldera, is a beautiful Brunello di Montalcino from Italy which is rare and is incredibly difficult to get in Malaysia.”
Above Soldera (Photo: Hafiz)
Soldera (Photo: Hafiz)
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The current wine pairing offered with DC Restaurant’s seasonal tasting menu begins with none other than a Champagne. “We always begin with bubbles to start the evening, and we currently feature Champagne Larmandier-Bernier,” he says. The Blanc de Blancs is made from the single grape varietal, Chardonnay: “The grapes used to make this bottle come from four different plots that are all in the same longitude.”
Another notable wine that makes an appearance as part of the pairing is the Grüner Veltliner, natively from Austria: “It is an underrated wine of good value that provides a great drinking experience.”
Hafiz also highlights The FMC, a Chenin Blanc from South Africa. “Chenin Blanc is originally from France, where the cooler climate and terroir produces a more acidic and fresh wine,” he begins. “However, the same varietal planted in South Africa, which is warmer, results in a buttery, creamy, and rich wine.”
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Above Champagne Larmandier-Bernier (Photo: Hafiz)
Above The FMC (Photo: Hafiz)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier (Photo: Hafiz)
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Whether it be exposing guests to South African wines or teaching them something new, Hafiz is proudest when he is able to educate and expose diners, which he believes is a vital part of his role. “As a sommelier, we cater to all drinkers, from entry-level to those who travel the world and have tried more wines than I have,” he chuckles. “My job is to find the right bottle on the right occasion for the right customer.”
Having been awarded the Michelin Sommelier Award in 2023 and holding such a high position at DC Restaurant, the Langkawi-born sommelier has undoubtedly achieved more than many. Sharing a piece of advice for those starting out in the industry, he says: “Never forget your roots—the guidance from [Chin] at DC Restaurant is what has shaped my career and allowed me to gain knowledge, with the support from my oenology team."
Touching on the future, he hopes for Malaysia’s dining scene to gain more recognition, allowing the whole country to progress in terms of its culinary offerings and exceptional service.
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
