Cover The new iteration of The Journey menu has newly launched (Photo: Eat & Cook)
The new iteration of The Journey menu has newly launched (Photo: Eat & Cook)
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Chef-owners Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi were inspired by a trip to Niseko, Japan, as part of the Eat & Cook world tour
“A lot of great things can happen when we collaborate with restaurants overseas,” says Lee Zhe Xi, one of the two chef-owners of Eat & Cook. “We get to know different thoughts and philosophies of chefs around the world, and we often are inspired by them.”
Post pandemic, Lee and his co-founder, Soh Yong Zhi, have been travelling around Asia as part of the Eat & Cook world tour, hosting pop-ups and working with chefs around the globe to share the flavours that form Malaysia’s rich culinary heritage. Warm and personable, the duo are some of the country’s biggest advocates for homegrown suppliers and farmers.
Many a time, intriguing producers I have come across for features have been courtesy of the restaurant, who are always the first to shine the spotlight on local heroes such as soy sauce brand Mu Soy Sauce, heirloom rice supplier Langit Collective, and more.
Read more: Alex Dilling set to take guests on a gastronomic journey at Sabayon this June
During a recent collaboration in March 2024 with chef Sato Hironori at Méli Mélo in Sapporo, Lee was inspired by the ethos of the restaurant, which sources locally from the city. “Everything was from Sapporo, from oil and butter to milk, cream and honey,” he recalls. “I felt it was not right that we did not make the same effort when it comes to Malaysian ingredients.”
Above Eat & Cook’s impressive dining room
Eat & Cook’s impressive dining room
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At the time, Eat & Cook sourced just over 60 per cent of its ingredients locally, importing other produce such as dairy. “We came back to Kuala Lumpur motivated to create a menu fully rooted in local ingredients,” he smiles. “My team was very supportive, and we managed to develop a menu after a month and a half.”
See also: Sricharan Venkatesh on the future of Indian cuisine in Malaysia
Above Claypot nasi ulam
Claypot nasi ulam
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Dairy on the current menu comes from a Malaysian dairy farm, Farm Fresh. “We use the milk to make our own flavoured butters and buttermilk in house too,” he adds. When it comes to vegetables, salad leaves are sourced from Yummykai in Penang, which sends over the freshest leaves daily to pair with the course of curry.
Pucuk paku, which also makes an appearance, was found serendipitously during a drive to Hulu Langat the team took during the slower Ramadan season. “We went to the hills and found a lot of hidden gems, from paku pakis and pucuk paku to ulam,” he says, adding how such vegetables should be cut and used on the same day to retain the fruity aroma.
Above Pucuk salad with charcoal calamansi dressing
Pucuk salad with charcoal calamansi dressing
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A protein commonly seen on Eat & Cook’s menu is duck, which comes from Kuala Kangsar. “The meat tastes very clean due to the pristine spring water in the duck farm,” he says. Seafood, such as amadai, is from Hutan Melintang, whereas Slipper lobsters are caught in Selat Melaka, on the border of Perak and Selangor. “We are able to get fresh seafood daily, and we try not to freeze fish if possible,” he enthuses.
Don’t miss: Shirley Chia, a third generation soy sauce artisan, is reducing the stigma around soy sauce
Above Slipper lobster with buttermilk curry
Slipper lobster with buttermilk curry
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While his supply chain is currently secure due to the relationships he has formed with such farmers, he reiterates how important it is for restaurants to invest into the local farming industry. For instance, while Eat & Cook now has a constant supply of golden century eggs from a farm in Bidor, he recalls how it took a year and a half of feedback to get the quality top notch.
Another example is oysters from Penang: “10 years ago, you would think twice before eating Malaysian oysters, but because a lot of restaurants now source them, quality is more consistent.”
Above Roast mountain duck with century egg
Roast mountain duck with century egg
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However, it is not only farmers and fisheries who the restaurant is an advocate of, but also local brands such as Mu Soy Sauce, known for its premium, first-draw soy sauce, which is showcased by means of a soy sauce dripper in the restaurant. “There is no way we can develop a soy sauce as good as a brand that specialises in it and has invested so much into research,” he adds.
Currently, the soy is fermented with squid ink in the case of a dish that is a spin on chee cheong fun, as well as a mussel-fermented soy sauce that is paired with a fish course.
Above Seasonal fish with baby carrot juice sauce
Seasonal fish with baby carrot juice sauce
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“Producers and farms are the future of our culinary industry, and if there is no market for them, we cannot expect their products to become better,” he says. As we speak, I learn Lee is about to head off on another round of the Eat & Cook world tour, this time to India, Korea, and Taiwan, looking for new inspiration and gems of knowledge to bring back to our local culinary landscape.
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Images: Eat & Cook
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
