Eat and Cook
Cover Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi

The young chefs share the inspirations behind the food they create and what is in store for Eat and Cook

Having just ranked #79 on the Asia’s 50 Best list a week before I speak to Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi, Eat and Cook is undoubtedly one of the city’s most decorated restaurants. However, many do not know the story behind the opening of the Bukit Jalil-based restaurant. In fact, when I ask the two chefs about the origin of Eat and Cook, Lee turns to Soh, commenting, “I actually don’t think this is a story we’ve formally shared before.” 

As is the case for many other businesses, the idea for Eat and Cook was formulated during the pandemic. “We both lost our jobs and were struggling for almost six months. Together, we had RM 30,000 in the bank, which was not enough to open a restaurant, so we nearly gave up.” Lee recalls. Indicating to Soh, Lee chuckles: “Yong eventually found a listing on mudah.com for a shop lot in a mall in Bukit Jalil.”

Soh shows me his forearm, which bears a tattoo of the original shop, before pulling up a photo on his Instagram. “We did our own renovation, from the piping to buying lights from Ikea. We originally thought it would cost us RM 15,000 in total, but that was the cost of just one exhaust fan!” Soh chuckles.

The boys tell me that on their first day of operations, they had no customers. However, this didn’t deter them, as they had a clear concept in mind—from the very beginning, Lee and Soh knew they wanted to serve reimagined Malaysian flavours. 

“We worked hard, spending more than 18 hours in the shop each day,” Lee recalls. Eventually, their effort paid off and business picked up. “Just in the second month, our reservations were full,” he smiles.

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While business was booming, the chefs knew the way they were operating wasn’t sustainable. “Customers would have to bring their own wine, chilling and serving it themselves,” Soh recalls. “Our first set of wine glasses was actually given by a customer who felt sorry we didn’t have our own.”

Furthermore, the building wasn’t in an ideal condition, with intermittent air conditioning and toilets located a distance from the restaurant. So, nine months after it originally opened, Eat and Cook made a move to where it stands now, and by March 2021, the new location was fully operational. 

Having known each other since their days at Berjaya University, Lee and Soh have a close bond, constantly teasing and poking fun at each other. While different in nature (Lee is more outspoken and Soh more reserved), the boys attribute their successful partnership to their complementary characteristics, taking on different roles within the business. When I first ask about differences between the two of them, Lee immediately laughs: “I weigh less than him.”

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However, what ties Lee and Soh closely together is that they both draw inspiration from their roots when creating dishes. “We’re just two Malaysian boys, showcasing who we are,” Soh explains.

“Both of us grew up with our grandmother's cooking, so naturally, we try to recreate these childhood classics. You put in memories, add new technologies and flavours, push the usage of ingredients in unique ways, and enhance a dish.” Lee enthuses.

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What the boys love most about Malaysian cuisine is its diversity. Lee uses the example of sambal to illustrate this: “Indian-style sambal has more chilli, and is cooked with a milder braising time to give it more kick and make it more spicy. Malay-style sambal has more onions to give natural sweetness. Chinese-style sambal has lots of ikan bilis for umami. These nuances are exactly what we want to showcase at Eat and Cook.” 

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Daniel Adams

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