Cover Chef Sergio Meza
Chef Sergio Meza
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Chef Sergio Meza switches things up regularly with new dishes
Walking into Mano midday during their mise en place, I am thrown off guard by loud rock music emanating from the open kitchen. I spot chef Sergio Meza immediately—his afro is hard to miss—standing at the open fire grill. Dressed uniformly in green aprons over black T-shirts, Meza and his team are preparing for dinner service.
“We’re trying to do something you can’t find anywhere else in Kuala Lumpur,” Meza enthuses as he pulls out a chair opposite me at one of the round wooden tables. “Latin American-inspired flavours with all the trimmings, just minus the clichés of bright colours and girls dancing."
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Above Mano's interior
Mano's interior
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Meza, who hails from Mexico, knew he wanted to cook at the young age of 11, venturing across the Pacific to Spain straight after school to sharpen his skills in the culinary arts. He then spent a year at Noma, after which he moved around to Belgium, New York, and Chile, before opening Villanos en Bermudas in Columbia, which is still one of the Top 50 Restaurants in Latin America.
When the pandemic hit, Meza moved back to Mexico. When an opportunity arose in Kuala Lumpur, he packed his bags and moved here in 2022.
When asked about his menu, Meza quickly replies: “I am Mexican, so there is a strong Mexican influence. What we have here is a short menu that changes often—nothing more than 20 dishes at a time, including dessert.”
Above Sergio Meza founded Villanos en Bermudas, one of the Top 50 Restaurants in Latin America
Sergio Meza founded Villanos en Bermudas, one of the Top 50 Restaurants in Latin America
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The dishes always begin with a selection of raw, citrusy starters, from ceviche to aguachile, followed by hearty offerings made with the restaurant’s large open fire grill.
“Everything is meant for sharing, so you get to taste a lot of things,” he enthuses, telling me about a gorgeous lamb birria that is currently on the menu.
As Meza speaks, one of his team members slides him a cocktail that is presumably being tested for dinner service. Taking a sip, he gives a nod of approval before turning back to me.
“As much as I love tradition, we’re not limited by it,” he continues. “Also, since we are unable to get the actual ingredients for Latin American cuisine here, we’re unable to call ourselves truly authentic.”
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Nevertheless, Meza is firm about the things he doesn’t want on the menu. “Tacos, for instance, because when I put them on the menu no one will order anything else.” He also shows me a list of daily specials that often change.
What Meza is most excited about, though, is a Chef’s Table experience, which will be called Untitled. With no menu and no rules, diners walk in expecting to be surprised.
“Untitled is going to be our playground,” Meza excitedly announces. “We won’t tell guests what they have eaten until they taste it to avoid any preconceptions. Every experience is entirely different—different groups may have a different number of courses, but everyone gets the same value.”
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We follow Meza upstairs for a peek inside at the space where Untitled will be held. We are greeted by a square counter, surrounded by what seems to be kitchen fittings. “The chefs surround the diners, rather than the other way around,” Meza explains, noticing my puzzled look.
He goes on to note how guests are encouraged to interact with the chefs, immersing themselves in the experience. However, have a mind-blowing experience at Untitled and it could be the last you will ever have. “Our philosophy is for guests to never have the same course, ever. Not because we’re stuck-up, but because we believe it will never be as good as the first time.”
Walking back down the flight of stairs that connect the two dining concepts, Meza divulges: “For me, there have always been three kinds of food—one that I like to eat, one that I like to cook, and one that I like to sell. Downstairs at Mano are the types I like to eat and sell. Upstairs at Untitled is the one I like to cook—fine dining and crazy flavours.”
Above The open fire grill
The open fire grill
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Mano definitely has a quirky flair—the restaurant’s dedicated Instagram account often features a bright yellow rubber chicken toy, which I learn is the restaurant’s mascot named Horacio, which also acts as the kitchen bell.
“We take our work seriously, but we still like to have a laugh. I think of myself as the demographic of customers—I grew up with graffiti, heavy metal, skateboarding, and Limp Bizkit. When I think of a nice meal, I don’t want anything stuffy.”
With that, Meza pulls out a cutlery drawer from one of the circular tables to emphasise his point. “You don’t need to ask us for cutlery—it makes both the customer and staff feel at ease."
Settling back into our seats, Meza speaks more about how he runs Mano. “Staff here aren’t limited to their roles. For example, once the front of house finishes setting the room, they help in the kitchen. During service, the chefs go to tables and serve the dishes. We all cover a bit of each other’s jobs, so it’s less stressful for everyone.”
Above The team at Mano
The team at Mano
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As our photographer walks around the modern space, snapping photos, Meza whips out three printed sheets of paper from a clear folder, passing them to me. “If you want to have a laugh,” he smiles.
Written at the top in bold is "Kitchen Rules", and below, a list of bullet points. My eyes move down the list, and while many are not surprising ("any pots that go on the stove must be labelled"), others stand out ("no whistling; no one eats alone").
When asked what the punishment for breaking the rule is, his answer could not be truer to the brand. “Ten push-ups!” Meza firmly replies. “If you’re busy during service, there is a 50 per cent tax, so 15 push-ups after service.”
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Credits
Photography: Daniel Adams
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About
Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
