Cover Lim Yu Lin,
third-generation owner
and kebaya artisan
Lim Yu Lin, third-generation owner and kebaya artisan
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The kebaya is a shining cultural gem for Southeast Asian countries, and Tatler gets an artisan’s eye on what makes an authentic, exceptional Nyonya piece
“Have you seen my Unesco kebaya?” asks Lim Yu Lin, owner of Ang Eng boutique, a kebaya retailer and artisan in Kuala Lumpur. She proudly presents a cream-coloured, Swiss-voile kebaya adorned with an intricate embroidery of colourful flowers including orchid, hibiscus, rafflesia, simpor, and cassia fitsula, along with other iconographies representing five countries: Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. Lim explains how her Unesco kebaya came about, saying, “We were invited by the Jabatan Warisan Negara (Department of National Heritage) to demonstrate our embroidery skills at their Unesco exhibition at KLIA.”
Read more: Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage List: Why the traditional kebaya blouse should be included
Above A look back at Ang Eng’s
Above Ang Eng has been making
A look back at Ang Eng’s
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In April, Malaysia joined other Southeast Asian countries in submitting a nomination for the kebaya to be inscribed on Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity for 2023. This nomination effort aims to protect and preserve the kebaya—a shared historical legacy. The blouse represents a significant part of the cultural heritage and identity of women from communities in Malaysia and other Southeast Asian countries, including the Malays and Peranakans (Chinese, Baba Nyonya, Chetti, Siamese, and Kristang).
Playing a role in this is Ang Eng, an institution that has been making Nyonya kebayas for over half a century. Since 1955, Lim’s family has been in the business of making kebayas. It was her grandmother, Lim Wah Choon, who started it all, from a shop in Kedah. Though not a Peranakan herself, Wah Choon was very passionate about Nyonya kebaya. She learnt how to sew the garment and started her own business above her husband’s (Lim’s grandfather) dried seafood shop. Eventually, the business relocated to Kuala Lumpur where Wah Choon’s daughters and nieces helped out.
Above Ang Eng on the symbolism behind the decorative elements on a kebaya
In the hands of Lim, a third-generation artisan, the boutique is now open by appointment in a spacious storefront in Ampang, “My family has dedicated their whole lives to making kebayas, and they left me all the tracing papers,” Lim shares, adding that the production of an authentic kebaya is a laborious one. “You can’t do it in one day. The production is slow because we still use the old method.” Lim explains that while designs and styles may change, the method she currently employs harks back to her grandmother’s techniques.
The sarong kebaya is no longer commonly worn by young Peranakans in their daily lives. However, it continues to hold significance as a means of expressing Peranakan identity and is reserved for special events, such as Chinese New Year. This is similar to the Chinese culture of not wearing qipaos and cheongsams in everyday settings, but reserving them for festive occasions.
See also: How To Style Modern Batik, According To Kapten Batik
Above A brooch
to complete the look
A brooch to complete the look
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For Lim, who makes both custom and ready-to-wear designs, her customers range from young to old. “Some of them want to wear it overseas for convocation or graduation.” She adds, “I actually have a lot of customers who bring their children to make one, and I think that’s where they start to appreciate the kebaya. We also have elderly customers who cannot find [suitable] clothes to wear. So we actually see customers of all ages.”
What is the process of making a kebaya?
Lim: It takes an average of 100 to 150 hours to do one blouse. The first step is to choose the fabric, pattern and colour. From there, we trace the pattern onto tracing paper. Then, we cut and sew the fabric into a kebaya form based on the measurements given. After that, we pin up the kebaya and start to trace the pattern onto the kebaya itself.
Then, we select the thread colour and [instruct] the craftsman on the embroidery, which will take three to four weeks and beyond. After that, we will trim the kebaya’s edges and attach the sleeves. Then, we iron the garment and do a final touch-up.
What makes a Nyonya kebaya an exceptional piece?
Lim: When I look at a kebaya, first I will touch the fabric. The handfeel is important, and the fabric has to be sheer and lightweight—it should fit on the bodice. The kerawang (lace) should be two-faced (on both sides) and neatly done. The colour of the kebaya should match the bottom, and the overall look must appear balanced and nicely matched.
Don’t miss: Discovering Malay Textiles With Collector John Ang
Above Making a
kebaya requires an
artisan’s touch
Making a kebaya requires an artisan’s touch
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What fabrics are typically used?
Lim: Usually in those days (in the 1950s and 1960s), the Peranakans typically imported fabric from Europe. It’s Swiss voile, so the fabric is Swiss-made. This is truly authentic. (Pointing to a rack in her store) These are all Swiss voile—you can see it’s very smooth, with a high thread count and close density. That’s why it’s very cooling and long-lasting.
What are some popular trends now?
Lim: During my grandmother’s time, her kebayas were mainly Nyonya designs. When my mother took over the shop, she started to see more local and Malay customers. So my mum [modified] the design from Nyonya to long kebaya styles, using different textures like silk. For me, I still want to keep the authentic designs, because there is still a group of Nyonya customers who prefer authentic Nyonya designs. But, I’m also exploring simpler and modern designs so that younger people will love wearing the kebaya. Customers sometimes give me feedback so I know that they no longer want the same thing. Since they already have an original kebaya, they now want something different. So, I try to create festive designs for occasions like Merdeka, Chinese New Year, Christmas…
What is your vision for Ang Eng’s future?
Lim: I want this skill to be known to everyone and create awareness about what an authentic kebaya is. I just want to make beautiful kebaya—that’s my personal wish.
Credits
Photography: Daniel Adams
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Lynette loves travelling and dancing to Latin music almost as much as she enjoys period films and pastry desserts. She is constantly in search of the perfect nude lipstick and finds her best ideas through walks in nature.
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As the Editor-in-Chief of Tatler Malaysia, Lynette leads the content teams for print, digital and social media platforms of the brand. She has over 20 years experience in media, having been editorial director and editor-in-chief for lifestyle titles such as Cleo, ELLE, Esquire, Men’s Health, and Women’s Health.
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