Malaysian fashion industry powerhouses weigh in on the topic and share their love for one of Southeast Asia's most recognisable garments
This year, Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Singapore, and Thailand jointly submitted the traditional kebaya blouse to be included in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Unesco) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. “It represents and celebrates our rich and shared history, promotes cross-cultural understanding, and continues to be present across Southeast Asia,” says the Malaysian Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture.
The kebaya originated around the 15th century in the court of the Majapahit empire in eastern Java, now Indonesia. It was initially a tailored blouse worn over their traditional kemban torso wrap but evolved to include peniti (safety pins) to fasten the blouse. This versatile garment swiftly gained popularity among communities in Indonesia and neighbouring Southeast Asian countries, each region infusing its unique cultural elements into the kebaya, adapting it to suit their specific needs.
In Malaysia, the kebaya blouse is particularly associated with the Peranakan community, also known as Baba Nyonya. This community comprises the descendants of Chinese immigrants who arrived in the Malay-Indonesian archipelago of Nusantara during the colonial era in the late 15th and 16th centuries. The kebaya also holds significant cultural importance for women in Malaysia's Chetty, Siamese, and Malay communities, contributing to their identity and heritage.
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Over the last few centuries, the kebaya has gone through many evolutions. However, in all its forms, it remains a cherished, respected and distinctive part of Malaysia and Southeast Asia's cultural heritage—making a strong case for these countries' bid to be included on Unesco's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Ahead of the decision, we speak to three respected figures in Malaysia's fashion industry, including fashion designers Alia Bastamam and Dato' Tom Abang Saufi, Malay textiles collector and Asian art history expert John Ang. They share their love and appreciation for the traditional garment.