Cover Open-fire grilling is the name of the game at Barkar KL (Photo: Barkar KL)
Open-fire grilling is the name of the game at Barkar KL (Photo: Barkar KL)
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We speak to co-founder Soh Yong Zhi and head chef Kevin Ng about the exciting new opening
Combining the words bar and the Malay term “bakar” in both name and concept, Barkar KL is the latest restaurant to grace Kuala Lumpur’s dynamic dining scene. While it is the brainchild of Eat and Cook’s young talents Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi, the kitchen team is led by head chef Kevin Ng, previously of Communal Table by Gen 根.
Theatrical and immersive, a journey here begins even before entering the dining room—the preceding tunnel-like entrance is packed with mangrove wood, while full-length mirrors add to the endless illusion.
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Above Mangrove wood surrounds diners as they walk through the cave-like entrance to the main dining room
Mangrove wood surrounds diners as they walk through the cave-like entrance to the main dining room
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Circling the open kitchen, the bar counter intentionally recreates the sense of gathering around a warm fire (the team aims to revive communal cooking in both dishes served and interior design). Hanging in two walk-in dry-ageing chillers to my right are lesser-known cuts of meat and locally sourced seafood.
Above The restaurant's circular bar counter
The restaurant's circular bar counter
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“The idea behind Barkar KL came even before Eat and Cook,” Soh Yong Zhi explains. “The concept took a backseat due to the pandemic, but we always had a passion for grilled food and casual dining.”
Above Kevin Ng, Barkar KL's head chef
Above Soh Yong Zhi, Barkar KL's co-founder
Kevin Ng, Barkar KL's head chef
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It is a distinctive change from Eat and Cook’s tailored set menus. “The biggest difference is our self-built customised cooking station that uses wood,” he enthuses. “The menu revolves around direct, robust flavours that fuse both Southeast Asian and Malaysian flavours, led by Kevin.”
See also: How Jay of Back Alley Pasta brought his noodle dreams to life
Above Egg and Toast
Above Char Siew Wagyu Beef Cheek Claypot Rice
Egg and Toast
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A standout dish to this dining writer is the very first plate—the Egg and Toast, featuring chicken ba kwa in between slices of toast, slathered with the restaurant’s century egg kaya (the first time I had the pleasure of trying this spread is during the pandemic as a takeaway set, and it is as decadent as I remember). The toast is dipped into a 63 degrees sous vide egg, which effortlessly spills a golden yolk.
Above Ember Grill Dry Aged Australia Denver Lamb Ribs
Above Barkar Skate Wing
Ember Grill Dry Aged Australia Denver Lamb Ribs
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When it comes to the mains, don’t skip the lamb spare ribs, one of Ng’s prized creations. As he places the dish down, he says: “We draw inspiration from the traditional Chinese dish of black vinegar pork trotter, applied to lamb ribs and cooked over wood fire.” All eyes are drawn to the well-caramelised slabs of meat, served with a side of crisp ginger.
The addition of a skate wing to our original order was more than welcome (would anyone protest?), which sees fork tender strands of locally-sourced stingray marinated in buah keluak.
Don't miss: Maillard Grill has a new way of ageing its steaks—Sabah Coral Grass
Above The restaurant's self-built customised cooking station uses wood
The restaurant's self-built customised cooking station uses wood
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While dessert was something I protest against (I admittedly don’t have a sweet tooth, and the food has started to settle), all four plates (one per person) of the lava cake made with Chocolate Concierge chocolate are wiped clean, and it remains one of my favourite dishes of the night, a testimony to the standard present at Barkar KL.
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Images: Barkar KL
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Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.
