Jay runs the ship at Back Alley Pasta in Ampang
Cover Jay runs the ship at Back Alley Pasta in Ampang

We pick the brain of the chef behind the beloved Ampang eatery on his career and everything pasta

Somewhere in between a speakeasy and a pasta restaurant lies Back Alley Pasta, in the sweet spot that embraces the incognito nature of hidden bars and the conviviality of a lively Italian eatery.

Though tucked away in a buzzing corner of Ampang and small in size, Back Alley Pasta is known for its mighty flavours in plates that pack a pasta punch, all thanks to its chef-owner, Jay. Back Alley Pasta is Jay’s first-ever restaurant venture under his name and has been a go-to for creative pasta plates for many since its opening in 2021.

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Above For Jay, pasta serves as a canvas to spread his creativity

Jay’s beginnings in the industry date all the way back to his teenhood, where he started with part-time gigs at restaurants, working as a waitstaff and barista. He took his talents to culinary school and eventually across the causeway to Singapore, where he cut his teeth in DB Bistro by Daniel Boulud at the famed Marina Bay Sands. There, he trained under chef Stephane Istel and learned the ins and outs of the cutthroat industry.

Three fruitful years later, Jay returned home and found himself in kitchens around the capital city, including Zenzero, Brasserie Fritz, and Rare The Food Company. Although the food he cooked and the teams he worked with changed in tandem with his workplace shifts, one thing stayed true with Jay through it all: his dream of working with pasta in his own restaurant.

We sat down with Jay to get a peek into Back Alley Pasta’s inner workings, the challenges he persisted through to get to where he is today, and his personal pasta favourites.

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Photo 1 of 3 Plating up the famed smoked bacon carbonara using squid ink linguine
Photo 2 of 3 The plate is incomplete without a healthy serving of freshly grated parmesan
Photo 3 of 3 Putting on the finishing touches

How did the idea of Back Alley Pasta come around?

My partner Alfred Yan had a space that was previously used as storage, and he didn’t know what to do with it. So, we brainstormed back and forth together. 

I’ve always wanted to open a small pasta bar where I’d only sit about 12 to 18 people–similar to what an izakaya in Japan would be like. He, on the other hand, liked the idea of a speakeasy cum jazz bar vibe, so we looked at the back end of the shop lot and thought it would be cool if we opened the back instead of the front, resulting in the speakeasy restaurant concept. As for the name, it was a case of minimum effort and maximum result!

How does Back Alley Pasta challenge you? 

It’s a challenge knowing that not everybody is going to be receptive to what we do. Even to this day, it has always been a challenge for us to keep pushing the envelope but preserve familiarity at the same time. 

We know for a fact that we can’t go to the extreme with a concept that is so foreign that people are not even willing to try our food. It definitely took a lot of market study, as well as understanding the dynamics of our local palate and dining crowd, to come up with our dishes, menus, and concept as a whole. 

How do you feel about the positive feedback and reception to Back Alley Pasta?

It proves to us that what we do works and that people actually can take to our concept and, most importantly, our food. It really is humbling to know that people enjoy dining with us and keep coming back. 

It’s also more than a blessing that most of them have become great friends of the restaurant, and most have been with us since day one. 

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Quinoa arancini in pomodoro sauce and the squid ink linguine carbonara
Above Quinoa arancini in pomodoro sauce and the squid ink linguine carbonara

On the flip side, how do you feel about negative comments from customers, and how do you deal with them?

It’s somewhat tricky, and I would be lying if I said that some of the comments haven’t affected us in the past. However, there are also comments that are given in a constructive manner, and those are the ones that really do push us to do better. 

It’s always good to have constructive criticism to keep us in check so that we’ll do better. It’s a matter of filtering out the comments that matter and the ones that don’t. 

What do most people not know about Back Alley Pasta?

The fact is that we are not, and would never be, an Italian restaurant. We are a pasta bar, no doubt, but we simply use pasta as a canvas to spread our creativity. 

How would you describe your time at Back Alley Pasta thus far?

One hell of a roller coaster ride! Along the way, I’ve been given the privilege to work with some of the kindest and most talented individuals who make up the Back Alley Pasta crew. I have also met diners who have turned into great friends. It’s a blessing that I’ve been given the opportunity to do this, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything!

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Jay and his creations
Above Jay and his creations

What has been one pivotal moment in your career that has stuck with you?

It would have to be when the moment I was given the opportunity to finally open my own place, make the food that I’ve been planning and drawing out and bring the countless menu ideas that I’d say were 14 years in the making to life. 

Having people eat my food and appreciate it is truly a humbling experience, and it brings me priceless satisfaction to be able to do it every day. It makes waking up, getting out of bed, and going to work exciting each day. 

What keeps you going in the industry?

The fact that there are more chefs at home who are pushing new boundaries every day and that there are young chefs who have the courage to do what they do and really hustle every day. Also, seeing that what we do works, being acknowledged, and growing further than I personally have expected also keeps me going. 

In my opinion, it’s really important that this industry is growing in all the right ways, whether it be empowering young talent or bringing something fresh to the table. It’s utterly exciting to see what happens next—it keeps me on my toes!

Who would you say is your biggest inspiration and influence?

I would have to say, my mum! She’s not a chef, but it all started in her kitchen. As for chefs, I look up to and really aspire to be like David Chang, André Chiang, Josh Niland, and James Kent—just to name a few. Their visions and ideas have long been what I constantly refer to when I need inspiration.

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Back Alley Pasta’s space was recently given a facelift in the third quarter of 2023, expanding its dining area and seating
Above Back Alley Pasta’s space was recently given a facelift in the third quarter of 2023, expanding its dining area and seating

What is your favourite pasta shape?

I love shapes like garganelli, rigatoni, cavatelli, or any pasta shape that has holes, ridges, and crevices that can hold sauces. 

Describe your ideal meal after a day of making pasta.

Late night Korean BBQ or those late night Korean restaurants in Sri Hartamas and a cold beer. 

What is one favourite combination you want to try but haven’t yet?

Chocolate and chilli in meat ragù, that ought to be interesting.

Is there a pasta dish in the world that you want to try but haven’t yet?

I think it’s safe to say that there are many plates of pasta that I’d love to try! From the classic alfredo pasta at Il Vero Alfredo in Rome to the game meat ragù in northern Italy. Aside from pasta dishes from their home country, places in Asia and Australia are also coming up with very contemporary plates that I’d love to tuck into when given the chance. 

What are your hopes for your career and Back Alley Pasta?

My hope is that we are able to train and teach, if possible, every young chef or chef who spends time with us in subjects that aren’t just about cooking. There is much more to cooking than meets the eye, from having good ethics to learning to building relations with the community around you and being grounded. 

I won’t go as far as to say we would like to touch their lives or change them completely, but if we can leave an impression, that would help them stand out and push them in the right direction. I think that would be more than enough for us. 

As for Back Alley Pasta, I hope to see it grow into a restaurant that collaborates with as many local talents as possible while keeping our principles and core values throughout all the concepts that we start in the future. Growing numbers-wise is in the plans, but always retaining the high quality of hospitality and innovative food that made us who we are today. 

Credits

Photography  

Daniel Adams

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