Sarawak-born pastry chef Michelle Goh serves a milo jagung-inspired dessert at Mia Bangkok

Located in Khlong Toei, the two-storey eatery earned its first Michelin star in December 2023, a testimony to Goh and Russell’s vision and dedication. However, the restaurant did not originally begin as a fine dining establishment; it was high-tempo with hearty sharing plates when it opened in 2019.

“When the pandemic hit, we realised we had to pivot—both Top and I had fine-dining backgrounds, and we knew it was worth the shot to make the change,” Goh recalls. The menu was completely revamped, staff were retrained, the space was renovated, new plates and cutlery were purchased, and Mia Bangkok reopened as it stands today, an upscale Modern European restaurant with a tasting menu. “Immediately, feedback from customers was amazing, and after our second year, we got our first star,” she enthuses.

While Russell takes charge of the savoury section, Goh’s expertise lies in pastry. “We structure the menu according to European seasons,” she explains. “On our previous menu were Shine Muscat grapes as a pre-dessert, as well as a Matcha Almond Latte pastry.” In comparison, the current spring menu sees blueberries paired with buckwheat.

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However, a signature that has not left the menu since the restaurant’s reopening is the Mia Cereal Bowl, inspired by milo jagung, a delicacy in Kuching. “It is one of my sister’s favourite dishes to eat back home, a spin on ice kacang made with shaved ice, condensed milk, milo powder, and tinned corn,” she smiles. Goh realised that those three ingredients—milk, corn, and milo—are all common breakfast staples, and wanted to create a breakfast-style dessert in honour of her roots. 

The base of the cereal bowl is fresh-cooked corn, which is topped with milo mousse, candied popcorn, and homemade corn ice cream. Cornflake-infused milk is poured into the bowl tableside to finish the dessert. “This is one of our dishes directly influenced by a Malaysian dessert, and when we have tried to take it off the menu, customers have protested,” she laughs.

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While Goh focuses on pastry, she and Russell often work together on the menu, one such instance being a new cold starter. “In European cooking, it is common to see ceviche, so what we have here is a raw hamachi dish that is aged and cured, served with wasabi sorbet,” she explains. “The dish is a great combination of us as, though our skills are different, we still create dishes together.”

Working with one’s partner is often considered taboo, but it is, in fact, Goh and Russell’s differences that allow them to work together seamlessly. “I am more organised and disciplined, and he is more creative, so I keep him down to earth while he helps me be more free,” she smiles. You need such a balance to work with your partner, and we try to separate our personal and professional lives as much as we can.”

What makes Goh proudest about Mia Bangkok is the casual and fun atmosphere they are able to offer, despite it being a fine dining restaurant. “If you are someone like my mum, who doesn’t have much experience when it comes to fine dining, you would have just as great a time as a seasoned eater due to the approachable experience.”

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