Cover Leens Middle East Kitchen's beloved hummus (Photo: Leens Middle East Kitchen)

We speak to the Syrian chef about how he grew Leens into a neighbourhood favourite and his hopes for the future

When one thinks of hearty, comfort food and big flavours, the mind always turns to  Leens Middle East Kitchen. Nestled in the heart of TTDI, and now with its new sister restaurant Saj Bistronomy below, it is common to find the Syrian restaurant packed with groups of friends and families during opening hours in the evening.

This is more than justified—from the smoked hummus with Arabic bread and the signature crispy Syrian rice with chicken to the selections of tangy salads and flavourful kebabs, it is hard not to fall in love with the expertly executed dishes.

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Above Chef-owner Ameer Alzalek (Photo: Leens Middle East Kitchen)

However, becoming a chef was not always on the cards for Alzalek, who was born in Damascus, the capital of Syria. “I suppose the kitchen chose me,” the friendly chef chuckles, telling me he actually started his career as an accountant. “The general climate in Syria was not conducive to finding a job, so I decided to move to Malaysia,” he explains.

He worked around cafés, restaurants, and hotels around the country, from Penang to Langkawi, before working at Ember under Gary Anwar. “It was a great opportunity to learn from him, and I learnt a lot of my skills from working there,” Alzalek recalls.

In fact, it was during his time at Ember that he began selling jars of hummus. “I called the brand Leens, as it is my Malaysian wife’s nickname,” Alzalek smiles, telling me he met his partner after moving to the country.

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During the pandemic, he started cooking from home and delivering homestyle Syrian fare to customers before setting up a stall at Tiffin (some of the dishes from the pop-up, such as Syrian rice, charred chilli hummus, and baba ghanoush, are still on the menu today). “However, after six months, we decided it was time to progress to something bigger,” he enthuses. Hence, Leens Middle East Kitchen was born.

Colourful and vibrant both visually and on the palate, the dishes here are ideal for sharing and should be eaten in combination. “What we eat at home in Syria is what we serve here, but just elevated in terms of plating,” he says.

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A dip that many return for is the smoked hummus, which Alzalek developed during a collaboration with Andy Choy at Chateau Dionne KL. “The smoky flavour is from the charcoal oil we add to the hummus,” he divulges. 

The restaurant’s humble origins also form the name of its sister eatery, Saj Bistronomy, with Saj referring to Syrian Authentic Jar. While he originally planned to create an entirely new menu, he realised customers were loyal to Leens Middle East Kitchen’s original concept.

“People love Leens so much they just wanted the same dishes,” he laughs. “So we decided to take signatures from here and put a spin on them, and also offer more dessert options.” One of the new desserts is a baklava cheesecake, which sees delicate layers of filo pastry enveloping a rose-infused cheesecake topped with pistachios.

Touching on the future, Alzalek is bright-eyed and hopeful: “We hope to grow, expand, and open more places, sharing Syrian comfort food with more of Malaysia.” 

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