We speak to the talented chef about how he produces top-notch fare out of small kitchens
It was a rainy Thursday afternoon when I arrived at Coley, and being more than slightly drenched, it was a welcoming sight to see Joel Kirk, the brains behind Coley’s dinner menu, sitting on a step in front of the cocktail bar. Inside, the team prepares for the upcoming evening—in the kitchen, cured egg yolks sit in pockets on a bed of salt in glistening glory. While it is a tiny space (for two, it proves a squash), Kirk’s menu is more than impressive.
Recently relaunched, it sees a sizable repertoire of small plates and mains, from tostadas and steak frites to sourdough topped with black garlic ketchup and melted cheese (Kirk’s take on the Welsh rarebit) or spread with olive tapenade and San Marzano tomatoes. “A huge amount of consideration goes into each and every menu item, all born from wanting to push what is able to be offered in such a small kitchen,” Kirk smiles.
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Above Joel Kirk (Photo: Joel Kirk)
However, not just what is feasible is taken into account. “The menu is also based on Coley’s concept, a cocktail bar with Asian flavours,” he continues. We cater to those who want to snack, as well as those who may want to stay to dine.” He notes that he has realised locals often do not want to travel too much between their dinner and drinks, so he also aims to offer a menu that can be enjoyed as a full meal.
“I wanted to provide an experience that extends beyond yakitori and deep fried bites, and there is no other cocktail bar in Kuala Lumpur that serves food like this,” he adds. As a testimony to this, I have heard time and time again that when one thinks of the bar with the best dining experience, the mind always drifts to Coley.

Above Sharing plates at Coley (Photo: Joel Kirk)

Above Tostadas (Photo: Joel Kirk)
Kirk grew up cooking for himself and his brothers, as his parents both worked full time, so when it came to deciding what to pursue career-wise, the decision seemed straightforward. “I gravitated towards service and hospitality, what I knew best, and my parents were more than supportive—the only qualm they had was that they wouldn’t see me enough,” he chuckles.
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Above Kirk joined Sitka when it was still located in Plaza Batai (Photo: Joel Kirk)
After culinary school, the young chef cut his chops around hotels and restaurants in Kuala Lumpur, from Nathalie Gourmet Studio to Lafite at Shangri-La, before working in Singapore. He staged at Noma for three months, during vegetable season in June, before returning to Kuala Lumpur and joining Sitka when the restaurant was still located in Plaza Batai.
“The team there was doing something that intrigued me—modern Asian, nothing too fancy, just solid cooking with interesting flavour combinations,” he smiles. He stayed on for three years before deciding to delve into the world of consulting, catering, and kitchen management.

Above Kirk and Brandon Tan (Photo: Joel Kirk)
Kirk’s first consulting stint was with Bol, before he was approached to manage the kitchen at Coley. “I run the kitchen with my own team at my own cost, with Coley taking a percentage of sales,” he says. The same modus operandi applies to his newest project at Lex’s Patio Pantry at Kapas Condominium. By night, Kirk and his colleague Brandon Tan, who he met while consulting at Bol, turn the neighbourhood grocer into Harmony House, offering up piping plates of comforting Cantonese fare.
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Above Dishes at Harmony House (Photo: Katelyn Tan)
“[Tan] has an interest in home cooked Chinese food, which we uplift here with our own twists,” he says. Similar to Coley’s kitchen in terms of space constraints, the two work with what they can, serving dishes such as ginger scallion fish, mapo tofu, and fried rice to Bangsar’s community.

Above Kirk hopes to share knowledge with young chefs (Photo: Joel Kirk)
With so much experience under his belt, Kirk hopes to share what he knows with his growing team of passionate chefs. “Finance, HR, social media, menu engineering, working with suppliers—these are skills that are not taught in culinary school, but learned from experience,” he says. “I want to provide a space to teach and a platform for young chefs to strive.”
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