Cover Curio Coffee's interior (Photo: Curio Coffee)

Founders Yong Jook Yie and Chris Leow share why they favour manual roasting and brewing

When I first arrived at Curio Dark to meet Yong Jook Yie and Chris Leow (or at least where Google Maps took me), I was glad I was early. At first glance, I was not able to find the café, though I was standing above the red pin displayed on my phone screen. Upon closer inspection, I finally spotted the entrance to the cafe above a dark stairwell and pebbled walkway that leads down into a sleek roastery.

Both Yong and Leow arrive shortly after, having just come from Curio Coffee’s other location. Soft-spoken and the perfect host, much like her partner, Yong, starts by recommending that I try the Silky Black for its beer-like texture before our interview begins.

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Above Curio Dark

“Curio refers to a small space that intrigues, and that is exactly what we want to achieve,” she smiles. In the case of the first branch, one has to search for a spiral staircase that leads up to the intimate café, while in the case of Curio Dark, it is the opposite. This air of curiosity also extends to the roastery’s menu, which is full of coffee-based creations that run the gamut from sweet potato and strawberry lattes to Earl Grey and rose-infused drinks.

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“We wanted to stand out as a place to visit for new experiences,” adds Leow. “As much as we brew black and white coffee to the best of our ability, we wanted to cater to both coffee lovers and those just starting to explore the drink.” The duo are not purists—creative coffee cocktails and mocktails, all combinations that they personally enjoy, can be ordered at both locations.

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Above Chris Leow and Yong Jook Yie

The two never planned to enter the roastery scene, but coffee was always a big part of their lives. “[Leow] enjoyed roasting beans while I enjoyed brewing at home,” Yong smiles. Just before the pandemic, the two travelled to Japan and were enthralled by the selection of small, self-sustaining cafés with roasteries; returning inspired, Curio Coffee was born in 2020.

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Above Curio Coffee was founded in 2020

Leow comes from an automotive background, while Yong started her career in microbiology, so their approach to roasting and brewing is naturally mechanical and technical. Instead of using modern software to control the roasting process, they prefer to use human touch.

“There are so many possibilities when it comes to developing a green bean into a roasted bean if you manually roast and brew,” Leow says. “Two people can start with the same bean and use the same manual machine, but the final brewed cup can differ greatly due to human elements and choices.”

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Above Chris Leow brewing a cup of coffee

Leow goes on to explain how these subtle differences create different tastes and mouthfeels in the final cup: “It is only by roasting our own beans and manually brewing each cup that we are able to create such varied nuances.”

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Touching on coffee culture in Malaysia, Yong explains that due to the deep-rooted tradition of local coffee shops, customers often still have preferences for piping hot, bitter coffee. “But coffee is actually a cherry, and its naturally fruity nature should still be enjoyed—the strong bitterness comes from roasting, which turns the beans into a more charcoal object,” she says.

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Above Leow and Yong favour manual brewing methods
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Above The final cup of coffee can differ based on human element

One of the duo’s favourite pastimes is striking up conversations with customers to share their wisdom and better understand their client preferences. In the same spirit, Leow tells me they are planning to set up a mobile coffee truck in the future.

“We have a defender and plan to turn it into a coffee camper truck, bringing it around small communities in Malaysia, or even further, and brewing at the same quality we serve at our cafés,” he smiles.

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Images: Curio Coffee

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Katelyn Tan
Dining and Travel Editor, Malaysia & Indonesia, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia

About

Katelyn is the dining and travel editor of Malaysia and Indonesia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she offers readers an inside look at the movers and shakers in Asia’s growing food and beverage industry.