Tatler Dining Guide 2024: The best modern Malaysian restaurants in Malaysia

Diners are taken on a culinary tour around Malaysia, where dishes inspired by different regions are served. Beta KL’s tasting menu has an engaging narrative. Chef Raymond Tham showcases his personal style and creative ingenuity with an eclectic use of local flavours, presenting a contemporary spin on Malaysian cuisine. Courses are both well-thought out and memorable. Attentive and effective service remains a key feature of the experience here, and the team looks to ensure guests are engaged throughout.

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For authentic, fine Malay cuisine, look no further than Bijan Bar & Restaurant. On the menu are local dishes such as Opor Rusuk, beef ribs slow-cooked in an aromatic gravy, and Sotong Hitam Manis, squid cooked with chilli paste and lemongrass.

Visit modern Malaysian eatery Chocha Foodstore for well-executed food that showcases local ingredients with balanced, nuanced flavours. Its ambience is rustic and unique, and it is a great place for meeting friends. Try the ambuyat, made out of sago palm tree starch and served in three different ways. The ulam lemang wrapped in sweet potato leaves and the chicken smoked over lemongrass leaves should also be ordered.

Dancing Fish champions spice-laden Malay-Indo flavours and does not skimp on quality and quantity. The restaurant has lasted the test of time due to consistency and dishes that pack a punch. It is perfect for gatherings and has something for everyone, and the signature Dancing Fish with Curry Keluak and Baby Octopus is a must-order. Service is also an absolute treat, with staff carrying buckets of rice, ready to top up where needed.

Dewakan is the crown jewel of Malaysian fine dining, introducing guests to indigenous ingredients with its beautiful plates while pushing boundaries and advancing our culinary scene. No one else does justice to local produce quite like Darren Teoh, and Dewakan’s dishes have an educational aspect to them, using lesser-known local produce in a daring, experimental manner. There is attention to detail in the experience, and the team impresses with in-depth knowledge of ingredients.

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Eat and Cook presents an innovative, experimental Malaysian tasting menu. The creative dishes often have a backstory and evoke nostalgia, using local ingredients in clever ways. What stands out is the passion and sincere hospitality of the team that is looking to place Malaysian produce on the map. While the menu constantly changes, portions are always generous and satisfying. The intimate setting is refined while being engaging.

Known for its handmade egg noodles, Fifty Tales boasts delicious, no-frills comfort food that is good for all occasions. Try the OG Style Noodle Bowl, which has alkaline-free noodles tossed with pork lard, soy sauce, and aromatics, paired with pork belly braised in beer and an egg marinated in Chinese wine. The simple bowl was the first ever noodle bowl the restaurant put out, and it still remains on its menu to this day. Other must-try dishes include the signature roasted chicken, which takes four days to make, as well as the duck egg kaya mochi. Attentive staff, excellent service, and interesting menu additions keep patrons coming back for new experiences.

Gen 根’s take on showcasing Malaysian food makes for a memorable dining experience. Creative, imaginative dishes such as the Buah Kulim, Oyster, and White Corn highlight local ingredients through skilful techniques and meticulous cooking. The restaurant’s clean and modern setting, along with its central location, creates an inviting arena. Paired with impeccable service, the restaurant pushes the envelope for Penang’s fine dining scene while allowing guests to rediscover Malaysian Chinese flavours like never before.

For a taste of authentic Jawi Peranakan heritage cuisine in the heart of George Town, visit Jawi House. Chef-owner Nurilkarim Razha knows his way around local herbs and is always generous with his knowledge of such ingredients. The restaurant’s unpretentious, hearty dishes are a journey of discovery, and are reasonably priced. Try the Nasi Lemuni, a traditional rice dish traditionally consumed for health benefits by mothers during confinement, or the Serabai, a light and airy fermented rice crumpet.

For an authentic taste of Sarawak cuisine, visit Lepau Restaurant, founded with the hope of preserving the state’s heritage and culture. Order the Sarawak Pansuh Chicken, a traditional and earthy dish featuring chicken marinated in local jungle herbs and cooked over a charcoal fire. Not to be missed is also the Melanau Fish Umai, which is marinated in a dressing of lime juice, ginger, onions, and shallots.

Unpretentious modern Malaysian fare at an accessible price is always a winning combination. The team at Li Restaurant excels at taking familiar favourites, adding a touch or two of modern influences, and executing dishes in a strong fashion. Some of these delectable plates include the smoked fish kerabu, pork toast with chilli mayo, and house-made spam katsu burger. The inviting atmosphere and warm staff make the restaurant the ideal recommendation for those new to contemporary local fare.

Oitom celebrates Sabah’s rich culinary heritage, showcasing local produce through modern techniques. Working with small-scale farmers and producers, Sabah’s flavours are highlighted on a seasonal menu.

Table & Apron boasts top-notch hospitality, and paired with its honest cooking inspired by the joys of comfort food, the restaurant is always a hit. Fan favourites are always cooked to perfection—the Buckwheat Fried Chicken is the restaurant’s golden glory and has been a constant for the past nine years. The drumsticks and thighs are soaked in a lemongrass brine before they are coated in buckwheat batter and expertly fried. No matter how many times you have visited, the friendly team and consistent food that highlights local produce will keep you coming back for more.

With its idyllic rainforest setting, The Gulai House marries cherished local specialities with exceptional service. The restaurant does justice to the richness of our local cuisine and is a hit with both tourists and locals, with its multi-course dinners, flavourful signatures, and a hearty selection of beverages. Try the signature rendang, which features slow-braised dried beef short ribs with fresh coconut milk, chilli turmeric root, and lemongrass.

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