The northern tip of the country is no longer as isolated as it used to be thanks to the new superhighways connecting it to the rest of Luzon. Now, Ilocos Norte’s crispy bagnet, flavourful Batac empanada, and aromatic pinakbet have become household favourites. Vigan’s longganisa and empanadas have made their way to restaurants in the capital, and delicacies such as pipian and sinanglaw have developed their own cult following.

Detour: La Union, Pangasinan

The surfing town of La Union has sprouted a young and eclectic food and beverage scene with a focus on artisanal experiences and really good coffee. It would also be a shame to pass through Pangasinan without taking home some of their garlicky Alaminos longganisa and assorted dried fish from the markets.

See also: Filipino Food: What Is The Ilocos Empanada?

Even before Filipino food exploded into the global stage, Pampanga has always been, arguably, the centre of Philippine gastronomy. It is the birthplace of sisig, which the late legend and culinary raconteur Anthony Bourdain prophesied: “will win the hearts and minds of the world.” While dishes such as tamales, pork tocino, morcon, and buro can now easily be found all over the country, nothing comes close to those coming out of Kapampangan kitchens.

See also: The Best Sisig in The Philippines According to Top Chefs

This is where all the popular rice cakes come from, such as bibingka, sapin-sapin, cassava cakes, and traditional sweets like pastillas de leche and ube halaya. When overseas Filipinos usually ask for pasalubong (gifts brought back home from one’s travels), these Bulacan treats are definitely nostalgic favourites.

See also: The Culinary Capitals of the Philippines: Jessie Sincioco’s Guide to Bulacan

The diversity in the capital has truly made it a hub for a dizzying array of food choices to cater to a constantly growing and evolving population. Binondo, the oldest Chinatown in the world, has teahouses that pre-date our grandparents; the panciterias of Malabon are definitely worth the drive; lechoneros in La Loma are some of the country’s finest; and in the progressive business districts of Makati and BGC—as well as surrounding areas—one can find some of the most talented chefs that have proven to be at par with their foreign counterparts.

Detour: Rizal

Currently a popular route among biking enthusiasts for their challenging climbs and breathtaking views, the province has become home to a growing number of restaurants and cafes to cater to this new market. While casual eateries abound, there are also some trailblazing chefs and restauranteurs who have converted sprawling homes into stunning dining destinations.

See also: How Are These Chefs Pushing The Boundaries of Filipino Food?

Despite its proximity to Metro Manila, Quezon Province has its own distinct dishes such as pancit habhab, longganisang Lucban, Lucena chami, and hardinera. Next door in Batangas, one can feast on hearty bowls of bulalo and goto— products of their cattle farms— which may or may not be followed by mugs of homegrown Liberica coffee. In Cavite, respected food writer and Caviteño Ige Ramos names pancit puso as their most underrated dish.

See also: The Culinary Capitals of the Philippines: Food Writer Ige Ramos’ Guide to Cavite

Enriched with coconut milk and spiced with fiery chillis, Bicolano food is easy to spot based on these distinct ingredients. Popular vegetable dish laing is the perfect companion for grilled meats and seafood, while the painfully addicting Bicol express will have you consuming more hot rice than usual. Have you tried kinunot and kandingga? You must. Their pili nut is not only found in desserts these days but is also a prized component in cosmetics and face serums.

See also: The Culinary Capitals of the Philippines: Louise Mabulo’s Guide to Camarines Sur, Bicol

In this part of the Philippines, Bacolod is the reigning food capital being home to chicken inasal, kansi, and some of the finest grilled seafood. Iloilo’s batchoy from La Paz has become so popular it inspired instant noodle versions. Aklan’s oysters can hold their own when served with some of the world’s best, and Guimaras’ mangoes are unparalleled.

Detour: Cebu

Come for the lechon and the seafood roadside eateries, and stay to discover their own version of Filipino-Chinese delicacies like ngohiong, steamed rice (tausi spareribs over rice), and maki mi.

See also: Bacolod Travelogue: Everything You Have to Eat (and Where to Get It)

More than indulging in the infamous durian, one would be remiss to not enjoy the queen city’s plentiful seafood bounty. Tuna can be consumed in all its versions here where it is freshest, especially their version of ceviche called sinuglaw.

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