Through time, different factors blessed Philippine cuisine with a regionalistic diversity, making it one of the richest food cultures in the world
When Asia Society proposed a book on Philippine cooking in 2008, the initial plan was to follow the model of Thailand where some dishes were chosen to promote the cuisine. But talks with Filipino chefs (especially those involved in the project), some food writers, plus many in the food industry were averse to the idea. The questions mostly asked were: who will say this dish is better than the other or why that region and not my region?
Kulinarya: A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine (Anvil Publishing, 2008) chose instead to identify dishes cooked all over the country. Its purpose was to show the proper way to cook those dishes.
When it comes to food, Filipinos are regionalistic. It was only by chance that the chefs involved in the book came from different provinces so at least that showed some representation of the whole country in terms of dishes and preferences and ways of cooking.
Because the Philippines is an archipelago, one can conclude that interaction between islands must have been limited before the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century. And then during the Spanish occupation, travel by land and water to other areas was restricted, each person carrying a cedula (identification paper) and requiring not only a travel permit from the local government but from the friar of the local Church.
Read More: Essence of Asia 2021: Loving Local Elevated 4 Filipino Restaurants Onto The Global Scene
With limited interaction, it is no wonder then those different languages, customs and cuisines developed in each Philippine region. The kind of cuisine, as well, depended on many factors—the lay of the land (if the place was landlocked and had no or limited access to the sea); what plants were grown and animals found in the region; and later, Spanish influence on the cooking.
It isn’t surprising, therefore, that any discussion on regional cuisine focuses on the differences.