Filipino Fermented Food Photo Pixabay / Pexels
Cover Photo: Pixabay / Pexels

The world is taking notice of fermented foods—but these Filipino items have long played a central role in our rich food culture

The interest in fermented foods has grown in recent years. Boasting a wealth of health benefits, products like kombucha and kimchi have grown popular. The fermentation process also produces unique, bold flavours, and has become a central focus of top restaurants around the world, including the (soon-to-close) Noma. Despite its trendiness, fermented products reflect clever traditions deeply engrained in food cultures, including our own—a facet of Filipino cuisine that top restaurants like Toyo Eatery, Hapag, Metiz, and Gallery by Chele regularly highlight.

Learn more about these uniquely Filipino fermented food products, below:

See also: From kimchi to salted plums: Delicious fermentation projects to try at home

1. Buro

Buro is a mixture of cooked rice, salt, and shrimp (burong hipon) or fish (burong isda) that is left to ferment until it develops a pungent, umami, and sour flavour—typically about seven days. It is commonly used as a condiment to supplement grilled or fried fish, as well as vegetables in numerous preparations. Many also opt to sauté the buro with aromatics like onion, garlic, and tomatoes, which help balance the pungency of pure buro.

Buro also refers to a range of pickles often seen in Filipino cuisines, such as burong mangga (picked green mangoes) or burong mustasa (picked mustard leaves). Like fermentation, pickling is also a method of preservation and imparts a similar sourness, but they are distinct from fermentation processes because they require the addition of an acidic liquid like vinegar (which is, itself, a fermented product—see “vinegars” below). Fermentation, on the other hand, relies on the natural interaction of sugars and bacteria.

Read more: Why is Filipino cuisine one of the richest food cultures in the world?

2. Puto and bibingka

Puto and bibingka are two popular types of kakanin or Filipino rice cakes—the former, dry and steamed with a pleasant rice flavour, and the latter, a rich and buttery cake baked in a clay oven with a more noticeable coconut fragrance. While many modern-day iterations of the two skip this step, traditional recipes call for fermenting the rice flour ever so briefly, achieving a slight tang to complement its otherwise sweet profile.

See also: Kakanin quiz: how well do you know these 11 Filipino rice cakes?

3. Bagoong

With a sharp, fishy flavour and distinguishable scent, bagoong is a pungent Filipino paste made with fermented fish (bagoong isda), krill (bagoong alamang), or other shellfish (such as bagoong na sisi, popular in Visayas). Despite its complex and acquired taste, bagoong is used in a wide range of culinary applications in Filipino cuisine—as a condiment in kare-kare, part of the sauce in binagoongan, or even swiped on green mangoes for a unique snack.

Many different kinds of bagoong vary from region to region and are enjoyed in different ways. One popular regional example is the Visayan ginamos or guinamos, frequently used as a dipping sauce for boiled kamote (sweet potatoes) or saba (cooked banana). Even then, ginamos can be made with a variety of fish like anchovies, sardines, and shrimp, and may take different forms—pink and past-like, or greyish and liquid.

Made with fish entrails (most commonly, from yellowfin tuna), salt, and occasionally rice wine, dayok is a related condiment found in Visayas and Mindanao. It is often compared to the Japanese shiokara and Indonesian bekasang, as both are also comprised of fermented fish intestines. Try it with steamed vegetables, lechon, or grilled fish and meats with a healthy serving of rice.

In case you missed it: What do chefs like to eat bagoong with?

4. Patis (fish sauce)

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Fermented Filipino Food Photo Percy Pham / Unsplash
Above Photo: Percy Pham / Unsplash

Another common fermented fish-based product is patis, or Filipino fish sauce. In fact, patis is actually a byproduct of making bagoong, as it is the liquid that remains after pressing and draining the fish paste after it has been fermented. Its uses are just as diverse, added to broths to impart a salty, fishy, umami flavour, or treated as a sawsawan (dipping condiment), especially when mixed with a souring agent like calamansi juice or vinegar.

See also: 8 Filipino condiments you have to try: banana ketchup, bagoong, buro, and more

5. Kesong puti

Made with carabao, goat, or cow milk, kesong puti is a quintessential Filipino cheese. Like much Filipino food, this white cheese varies from region to region—while traditional fermented kesong puti is still popular, others will instead add vinegar to curdle the milk into cheese, bypassing the fermentation process. Have it sliced in a sandwich, seasoned and baked with a drizzle of olive oil, or even tossed into a salad.

Read more: 9 must-visit gourmet delis around Metro Manila

6. Liquors and wines

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Filipino Fermented Food Photo Nipanan Lifestyle / Unsplash
Above Photo: Nipanan Lifestyle / Unsplash

The Philippines boasts a range of native fermented wines and liquors unique to our food culture. Take tapuey, a sweet, potent rice wine from Banaue and the Mountain province. In Ilocos, you’ll find basi: a local wine made from sugarcane juice. Meanwhile, tuba is Philippine coconut wine made from the sap of palm trees, which can then be turned into bahalina (coconut red wine) or lambanog (distilled coconut palm liquor). Not only has tuba played a significant role in Philippine history, but it has also become crucial in beverage cultures of other countries—most notably Mexico, as the process, distillation, and fermentation techniques used to make tuba would later inspire the creation of tequila.

See also: 5 native Flipino liquors, spirits, and wines

7. Suka (vinegar)

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Filipino Fermented Food Photo Brooke Lark / Unsplash
Above Photo: Brooke Lark / Unsplash

Vinegar is inextricable from Filipino food. Beyond its use in famed dishes like adobo, fruits and vegetables like green mangoes, papaya, and mustard leaves are commonly picked in local vinegars. It is also used as sawsawan to complement a range of dishes like barbecue, lumpia, and many more.

Sugarcane vinegar is the most common variant in the Philippines, and is the most versatile of the bunch, too. Great as a pickling liquid, it can easily blend with whatever spices and aromatics you toss in.

Considering the abundance of coconuts in the country, the popularity of coconut vinegar is only natural. Whereas suka ng niyog is made from coconut water, the more commonly used sukang tuba is fermented from coconut tree sap—essentially, it is tuba that has undergone further fermentation. With a rounder, softer, and slightly sweet flavour, it makes for great sawsawan, especially when infused with chillies and spices.

Similarly, sukang Iloko (Ilocos vinegar) is made from basi, or sugarcane wine. Reduced to intensify its flavour, the basi is left to ferment in clay jars with a range of leaves, flowers, and bark. The result is a distinctly astringent and sour vinegar, great for cutting through fatty and rich foods like the longganisa or empanada found in Ilocos.

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8. Toyo (soy sauce)

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Filipino Fermented Food Photo Eiliv Aceron / Unsplash
Above Photo: Eiliv Aceron / Unsplash

While soy sauce is most commonly affiliated with Chinese cuisine, the versatile condiment has taken on different forms and become a staple in many other food cultures throughout Asia. Typically made with soy, wheat, and salt, the Philippine toyo is saltier than its Japanese counterparts. It is also distinct from the Indonesian kecap manis, a thick, sweetened soy sauce. 

Toyo is a common ingredient in marinades and sauces, lending a defining flavour in dishes like adobo, patatim, and humba. When mixed with a souring agent like calamansi or vinegar, and at times onions, tomatoes, and chillies, it makes a great sawsawan for liempo, inasal, fried fish, and more.

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