Cover Photo: Sebastian Coman Photography / Unsplash
Photo: Sebastian Coman Photography / Unsplash
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In the wake of Noma’s closure and thought-provoking films like The Menu, the sustainability of fine dining has become a point of discussion we can no longer ignore—here, we ask four of the Philippines’ top chefs for their two cents
Fine dining has become a matter of great contention in the past few months globally. Last January, chef René Redzepi announced that Noma, his three-Michelin-starred restaurant named The World’s Best five times, would be closing its doors. Speaking with The New York Times, he proclaimed that the modern fine dining model is “unsustainable...financially and emotionally, as an employer and human being, it just doesn’t work. “We have to rethink the industry completely,” he declared. “This is simply too hard, and we must work differently.”
In case you missed it: Legendary Danish restaurant, Noma, to shut its doors in 2024
This news came after The Menu, a dark comedy film released in November 2022. A social commentary on the commodification of fine dining, the film also points to the increasingly competitive, high-pressure environment that many of the world’s top chefs are subjected to—one that has encouraged a manner of fine dining that is, as Redzepi might say, ultimately unsustainable.
Below, we hear from four of the country’s culinary authorities and pick their brains on the hot topic.
Miko Calo
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Chef-partner, Metronome
In your own words, what is fine dining?
For most people, fine dining is an experience that goes beyond what is characterised as “the usual” way of eating out. From the level of service to the ambience and, of course, the detail and quality of the food and beverages, much more effort is put into fine dining.
Is fine dining the best form of dining?
That’s a tricky question that doesn’t have a simple answer. After all, there are great meals and experiences to be had that you wouldn’t call fine dining.
Read more: Chefs tell Tatler about the state of the dining industry in the Philippines
Chele González
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Chef-owner, Gallery by Chele; Culinary consultant, Adviche
Speaking from your own experience as a chef/ restaurateur, do Redzepi’s sentiments resonate with you?
That statement is a bit controversial. It does not reflect the reality of most of the industry. Yes, extreme interpretations of fine dining are inherently unsustainable, but it does not apply to all. We can do numerous things to create an environment of sustainability—a commitment that relies on creativity, constant evaluation, changing what needs to be changed and flexibility. For example, kitchen life used to be rigid, working about 17 hours daily. But across the board, there have been steps to allow the kitchen staff to have more balanced lives in an improved work environment.
What does “sustainable fine dining” look like to you?
Sustainability is about creating a balance and implementing a good business model that allows us to give our guests an extraordinary experience while giving our team the best we can. This has been my focus in the last few years —the essential part of a restaurant is the people. Gallery by Chele is a collective project; we all work together.
See also: Restaurant industry pet peeves: What not to do when dining in
Margarita Forés
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Chef and founder Margarita Forés Concepts: Cibo, Cibo di Marghi, Grace Park Dining, Lusso, The Loggia at Palacio de Memoria
Speaking from your own experience as a chef/ restaurateur, do Redzepi’s sentiments resonate with you?
While many restaurants in the Philippines have tried to “catch up” with the scene abroad, fine dining here is still very down to earth—and that’s a good thing. Our goals are more sustainable and more in touch with reality. Tasting menus are more about highlighting Filipino cuisine and Filipino ingredients. In a way, we are ahead because we are behind. I always say that. Even with agriculture and farming, the Philippines never really adopted industrialised farming, and now people all over the world are trying to do things more naturally.
How can we work towards a more sustainable form of fine dining? What must change?
The most important thing is to have a holistic approach, where you know you are making life better—not just for your diners, not just for your business, but for the greater good of the community. There is a beautiful network amongst us chefs where we share suppliers, celebrating artisans and farmers doing exciting things. We are not being selfish about it. This brotherhood-sisterhood community is something we should encourage and look to as a source of making the entire industry more sustainable and making our world a better place.
See also: Filipino food—how can we go further? Margarita Forés, Chele Gonzàlez, and more speak out
Stephan Duhesme
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Chef-owner, Metiz
Speaking from your own experience as a chef/ restaurateur, do Redzepi’s sentiments resonate with you?
Absolutely. Having 50 per cent of your workforce as unpaid interns is not sustainable in any business model, regardless of the industry.
I read a statement that struck me deeply during the Noma news: “All labour that is essential to the proper functioning of your business must be adequately compensated, or it is modern-day slave labour.” That statement alone made me ponder on a whole array of questions that stems from the root of unpaid labour (or poor labour practices) that we have institutionalised in the romanticism of the fine dining industry.
How can we work towards a more sustainable form of fine dining?
I’m not sure what the ideal model is, but this is our focus at the restaurant and what we are constantly trying to improve on: our impact on the current environmental crisis, sustainable labour practices, financial feasibility, and social impact and relevance. As chefs, patrons and restaurateurs, we need to look at the food being served and how it is done. We must go beyond just being establishments serving good food.
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This story was first published in the April 2023 issue of Tatler Philippines, available in all leading newsstands and bookstores, and downloadable via Magzter, Zinio, and Pressreader.
Credits
Photography: Sonny Thakur
About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
