Louise Mabulo in Bicol Region
Cover Louise Mabulo in Bicol Region

Chef Louise Mabulo of social enterprise The Cacao Project implores fellow foodies to go beyond Bicol express and laing

As an environmentalist, chef, and social entrepreneur, Gen.T 2020 Honouree Louise Mabulo is a true multi-hyphenate. Born in Manila and raised in the UK, the prodigious cook eventually returned to the Philippines and competed in Junior MasterChef Pinoy Edition at just 12 years young, snagging 5th place. Mabulo continued to collect a slew of local and international culinary accolades in the years that followed and even collaborated with respected establishments such as Gallery Vask (now Gallery by Chele), Smith Butcher and Grill Room (by chef Tom Hines, who now runs Kobe Jones), and Fairmont hotel. 

See also: How UN Environmental Champion Louise Mabulo is Future-Proofing Farmers’ Livelihoods in the Philippines

But her ambitions didn’t stop there. Though the young chef had long desired to promote local ingredients, it wasn’t until Typhoon Nock-Ten ravaged the agricultural lands of her hometown, San Fernando that Mabulo conceptualised The Cacao Project: a social and environmental initiative that provides farmers with sustainable livelihoods and fair wages while encouraging greater food security. Having realised that cocoa was a far more resilient and profitable crop than the coconuts and rice that once dominated the area, Mabulo introduced the farmers to the lesser-known crop and has since trained over 200 farmers, and planted over the 80,000 trees.

As she continues her commendable campaign for a more sustainable future, the 23-year-old gourmand gets to enjoy the vibrant flavours of Bicol Region, bursting with chillies, coconut, and pungent, fermented delicacies. Here, Mabulo shares what she considers to be the must-try eats from the region:  

See also: Who are the Must-Know Filipino Women in the Food And Drink Industry?

Where in Bicol Region are you from, and which cities do you normally visit when you’re back?

I live in the Camarines Sur Province in Bicol, in a town called San Fernando, just a stone’s throw away from Naga City.

What do you consider to be the must-try dish from your region?

Bicol is home to a lot of gastronomical delights! Of course, when visiting, you must try the usual staples like:

  • Bicol express: chillies, coconut, balaw (salted krill), ginger stew
  • Laing: taro leaves simmered in coconut milk
  • Bikolano pinangat: spiced young coconut meat wrapped delicately in taro leaves and steamed as small parcels.

You must also consider trying the pili nuts and binutong, our regional variation of suman.

See also: A Taste of Home: Maharlika’s Nicole Ponseca On Her Best Eats Around the Philippines

Tatler Asia
Pili nuts, a Bicol staple
Above Pili nuts, a Bicol staple (Photo courtesy of Louise Mabulo)
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Above Laing, a popular Bicolano dish (Photo courtesy of Louise Mabulo)

What do you consider to be the most underrated dish from your region?

Bicol has so many undiscovered gems of dishes, much lesser-known, but not any less delicious!

I absolutely adore dinailan, a smelly fermented shrimp paste stew offset with aromatic ginger, coconuts, either pork or shredded dried fish, kamias or santol as a souring agent, and sometimes pineapples! Think of binagoongan in coconut stew format. It’s warm, hearty, and although people say the fermented shrimp paste gives off an unpleasant aroma, the dish is sure to reward your tastebuds.

What is the one pasalubong you always bring back with you when you visit?

The must-bring pasalubong from Bicol at the top of my mind is pili nuts! Nothing quite beats the buttery, snackable treat.

As a personal choice, I like to gift daing na basa and daing na abo, some of the best quality salted dried fish in the country.

See also: 9 Places to Buy Artisanal Bottled Fish and Spreads in Metro Manila

What is one ingredient you long for from your region that you cannot (or cannot easily) find in Manila, if any?

Something almost impossible to find outside of Bicol is biti— the dried spleen of the abo fish. Once fried for a few seconds, they puff into precious little bubbles of fish chicharon—crisp to the bite, but melts into its gelatinous fatty form once chewed on. Nothing quite compares to that little burst of umami and unique texture.

What are your favourite eateries in that region? Why?

I personally enjoy eating food from specific people’s and friends’ homes and enjoying their family recipes. If you visit Bicol, don’t be afraid to check in on local friends and try their family recipes—nothing ever beats that!

If you’d like to try dining out, however, Balay Cena Una [though, currently closed] in Albay serves authentically local heirloom recipes in an antiquated wooden home.

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