Photo: Jirayu Koontholjinda / Unsplash
Cover Photo: Jirayu Koontholjinda / Unsplash

Chef Tom Hines’ new Salcedo Village “east-meets-west” concept is a reminder that going out to dinner was meant to be fun

If the heavy chains hanging on the frontage are any indication, British chef Tom Hines (Lulu, Hooch, Smith Butcher Steakhouse) is not one for timid introductions. His new Salcedo Village concept is not brash, either, which would have been atypical of his English sensibilities. No, Kobe Jones is quite upfront about its intentions without being crass, offering an open invitation to step out, indulge a little, and then see where things go from there.

The monicker itself is quite straightforward— Kobe being a Japanese city well-known for its exceptional beef, and Jones is the most quintessential Western name if there ever was one. “We are not doing fusion,” chef Tom explains. “Kobe Jones has a little bit of both worlds. The Japanese food is truly Japanese, while our Western cuisine is purely that.”

See also: Where To Order Delicious Steaks In Metro Manila

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Kobe Jones Scallop
Above Hand-dived scallop, spinach, and ikura unagi glaze
Tatler Asia
Kobe Jones
Above Kobe Jones restaurant interiors

The restaurant is tucked away in prime Makati property that is both accessible and yet obscure enough to be sexy and mysterious. The dining room is modern-industrial, softened by velvety wing chairs and properly-orchestrated lighting meant to showcase both the establishment’s interiors and its clientele. It really does have all the trappings of the pre-pandemic hotspot, but with food that will keep the discerning food-lover more than adequately captivated.

See also: Quarantine Recipes: Easy Steak Meals You Can Make At Home

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Kobe Jones Steak
Above Australian Wagyu ribeye and Prime Angus tenderloin
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Kobe Jones Cocktail

If the steaks do catch your attention, well that was bound to happen— it is no secret that chef Tom knows his way around a grill. The slab of Australian Wagyu ribeye is lavishly marbled as one would expect from meat of that calibre, making it almost impossible to butcher (pun intended). However, the true test of a chef’s grasp on technique is demonstrated in how he handles a filet. Kobe Jones’ prime Angus tenderloin is textbook— the even Maillard on the outside provides the sharp contrast to its bright pink inside. The steak knife that I picked out from a case before the meal, cut right through it, yes, like butter. There really is no better simile. Simply seasoned, the luxe creamed spinach was a worthy sidekick, as were the best hand-cut fries I have had in a while.

See also: Order Meat And Seafood From These Online Shops In Metro Manila

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Kobe Jones Foie Gras
Above Pan-seared foie gras over toasted baguette
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Kobe Jones Seafood Roll
Above Snapper, crab, and caviar roll

Undoubtedly opulent, as is the starter of pan-seared foie gras over toasted baguette with a tart mango chutney and a sliver of Italian black truffle. But, if there is anything to be taken away from this experience is that one should never disregard the seafood at Kobe Jones. Perhaps all meals here should open with the number one special— a roll of snapper, crab, and caviar that goes into one's mouth in a single bite. It is delicate yet complex, balanced yet on the verge of overindulgence. It really does set the tone for the rest of the dinner.

The number two special: hand-dived scallop, spinach, and ikura unagi glaze is also bound to impress. Their fresh oysters from Aklan are given such expert treatment that they arrive at the table perfectly shucked, chilled, and sweet, with that fresh ocean flavour. Their sushi is simple and well-executed, none of the cute stuff, which is how I like it most of the time, anyway.

See also: Where To Order Sushi, Sashimi And Chirashi For Delivery In Metro Manila 2021

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Kobe Jones Cocktail
Above One of Kobe Jones' sake-based cocktails
Tatler Asia
Kobe Jones Oysters
Above fresh oysters from Aklan

What I appreciate most about Kobe Jones is that the goal is simple, and that is to have fun. There are delicious sake-based cocktails for those who care to imbibe, and pairing them with their dishes is highly encouraged. When asked for the names of these delicious drinks prepared by their mixologist Cyrus, chef Tom shrugs and says, “they’re sake-based cocktails.” This nonchalance towards labels is not due to a lack of attention to detail - quite the contrary, as everything here from the drinks to the food to the service are all well-executed. However, at a time when everything else in our lives is calculated and over-thought, it is refreshing to find a place where they do not feel the need to do that, and neither do we.

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