Where and What to Eat in Davao: Chris Pamintuan’s Favourites

Davao lechon, grilled malasugi, and tuna sperm sac—read all about the dishes and ingredients restaurateur Chris Pamintuan considers to be essential additions to your foodie bucket list

As one of the southernmost points of the Philippine archipelago, Davao boasts an indigenous culture with facets distinct from what we in Luzon may be more familiar with. Naturally, food is one of them. “The south is known for seafood, especially fish, and we like our food simple,” observes restaurateur Chris Pamintuan. “We’re not very into complicated dishes or overpowering sauces.”

At Tola, their Filipino restaurant utilising local ingredients sourced in and around Davao, these uniquely southern Filipino dishes like sutokil and ang bulli (their twist on the local bulcachong) are given their rightful time in the limelight, presented alongside favourites like kare-kare, sisig, and more. Located above their soul food and cocktails concept Huckleberry Southern Kitchen & Bar, on the second floor of Balay Oboza, the restaurant beams an old-world grandeur, thoughtfully designed with charming touches that make you feel at home.

Learn more about what makes Davaoeño cuisine so special and all the dishes to tick off your list when you visit the King City of the South, here:

Where in Davao are you from, and which cities do you normally visit when you’re back?

I’m from Davao City, born and raised. My grandparents moved here from Pampanga during the Japanese occupation. My mum is from Daet, Camarines Norte. The city itself has a lot to offer now, but my favourite places to visit nearby, especially in the last two years, are Mati in Davao Oriental and Marilog District up north.

What do you consider to be the must-try dish from your region?

It’s hard to pick just one dish, but it would have to be something fresh and something from the sea. I’m going to go with grilled malasugi or swordfish. The texture and taste of the fish have the right balance of juicy, salty, and buttery, but meaty enough, so it’s not too melts-in-your-mouth soft. The south is known for seafood, especially fish, and we like our food simple. We’re not very into complicated dishes or overpowering sauces.

Above Grilled Malasugi

Above Kinilaw

What do you consider to be the most underrated dish from your region?

Kinilaw. Kinilaw is good as-is and preferred as-is: food in its pristine state, primal, unadorned. Fresh catch from the sea with flesh almost still on the run. Something everyone should try or appreciate. Kinilaw in this region is fish “sour cooked” in vinegar (aka liquid fire) and flavoured with the proper combination of aromatics and condiments, usually ginger, red onions, cucumber, sili, and salt. It’s a confluence of different degrees of tartness, spiciness, sweetness, and layers of softness and crunchiness.

Runner up: Davao lechon. I think it rivals that of Cebu. Some will say it’s even better.

What is the one pasalubong you always bring back with you when you visit?

Malagos chocolate, pomelo, and mangosteen are the usual favorites. Davao is known for its fruits and having the best chocolates in the country.

When I’m not too lazy to hand-carry pasalubong, it’s a kilo or half a kilo of lechon baka from Chew Baka with their very addictive soy-Worcestershire-garlic sauce.

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What is one ingredient you long for from your region that you cannot (or cannot easily) find in Manila, if any?

It doesn’t sound too appetising, but bagaybay or tuna sperm sac/milt, especially grilled or fried. I call it the sweetbreads of the sea because of its taste and texture.

That, and imbao or mangrove clams for a good, hot imbao soup—hard to find in Manila.

What are your favourite eateries in that region? Why?

Any dampa grill or wet market full of fresh seafood. There are a bunch of good ones in the city. Our favourite now is the one on Torres Street in front of Davao City National High School. It’s clean and bright, you have multiple vendors to choose from, they’re open till late and you mustn’t skip the dirty ice cream from the sorbetero on the way out.

If you’re more into meat, just walk down the street to the corner where you can find a couple of good lechoneros with good affordable lechon plates and dinuguan.

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The Culinary Capitals of the Philippines: Chris Pamintuan’s Guide to Davao