Cover Siago’s pool and restaurant immediately open up to the shore

Six months since typhoon Odette wrought destruction in parts of Visayas and Mindanao, Siargao Island is more than ready to welcome visitors back to its idyllic shores

Like many others, I had long been apprehensive about travelling to Siargao since the devastating storm that ravaged the popular beach destination last December 2021. But after each warm welcome, crave-worthy bite, and friendly exchanges with strangers from all walks of life, we were already itching to plan our next trip back.

Disembarking the plane at Sayak Airport, we were immediately greeted by a calm breeze and the towering coconut palm trees the island is known for. Excited for what lay ahead, we swiftly head over to baggage claim. It was only when all the other suitcases had been claimed that I was informed mine was still in Manila, offloaded because the plane was too heavy, and would be delivered the next morning.

Irritated but determined to enjoy the vacation, we hopped into the van and drove to our hotel to check-in. As a first-timer in Siargao, I never would’ve guessed that this was the same disaster site that captured the attention of sympathetic onlookers just six months ago: the roads were clear, streetside eateries and shops were merrily busy, and the trees stood tall (at least those that remained, which seemed like a healthy sum to fresh eyes, but were far more abundant before the storm).

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Above Decorative nautical touches at Munimuni Siargao’s restuarant
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Above Sun loungers by the hotel pool

Walking through the wooden doors at Munimuni Siargao, the beachy boutique resort instantly instilled a laidback attitude—something the cheerful staff and their cosy hospitality only enhanced. At the centre of Munimuni was the inviting pool, where we would later spend hours on end sipping on tequila and fresh pineapple juice, snacking on cheese sticks from the in-house restaurant.

In hopes of purchasing a pair of flip-flops, I recounted the suitcase mishap with the receptionist, Marie. “Welcome to Siargao!” she said humorously. These mundane but optimistic words would later become our catchphrase throughout the trip.

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Photo 1 of 5 Grilled cheese and chimi, among the most popular dishes at Siago
Photo 2 of 5 Dirrrty papas—house fries with chorizo, mozarella, and some greens
Photo 3 of 5 Pollo a la brasa, a house favourite
Photo 4 of 5 Siago’s take on loaded nachos
Photo 5 of 5 The smoke and mirrors and la manzana cocktails, two of the restaurant’s signature drinks

Soon after checking in, we dined at Siago for our first meal on the island. Between the pollo a la brasa, “Dirrrty” papas, and other dishes from the eclectic menu, we quickly learned that Siargao’s reputation as a gastronomic gem was well-founded. Boasting an unobstructed view of the shore and sleek, contemporary tropical interiors, the resort offered no hint of the storm.

Bravo Beach Resort’s al fresco bar and restaurant set the perfect scene for sundown drinks and tapas, with live music serenading us into the spirited nightlife. That evening, we danced with what felt like half of Siargao at Harana Surf Resort—a weekly Saturday ritual. Seeking reprieve from the crowd, we walked a few metres from the central wooden structure and street food carts, finding a spot along the shore. The sand was pleasantly soft and sugary, and the stars shone brighter than they ever could in the city.

See also: Bohol Travelogue: Why Panglao Island Should Be Your Next Food Trip Destination

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Above The small park outside Bravo Siargao
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Above Tapsilog became a morning ritual at Munimuni

The following morning was dedicated to a surfing session down at the famed Cloud 9 and Quicksilver surf spots with guidance from “The Botiti Boys,” an affable team of comedic surf instructors that kept us laughing through the failed attempts and wipeouts—a remarkably enjoyable first surf experience, despite the wounds and scratches we brought home with us. Though the famed boardwalk had sadly washed away, we were told that plans to rebuild it were well underway in preparation for the upcoming surf competition. Two exhausting but exhilarating hours later, our daily tapsilog back at Munimuni never tasted so good.

See also: Bohol Travelogue: Why Panglao Island Should Be Your Next Food Trip Destination

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Above Dishes from Haole, a Filipino fusion restaurant
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Above Manu, as well-appointed cocktail bar great for lounging about

Our next meal took place at Haole Surf Hostel, a decent tricycle ride away from our Siargao home but seriously worth the ride if not for the crispy sisig and chicharon alone (hot tip: they sell the chicharon by the bag, a great pasalubong to gift your foodie friends). Drinks at Manu, a contemporary “Tiki-Filipino” cocktail bar, offered delicious libations that eased us into the bar-hopping festivities later that evening—a decision we direly paid for, given our 9:30 am call time.

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Above Tour boats docked along the pier
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Above The boodle fight feast that awaited us at the foot of Corregidor Island Siargao

Driving through the General Luna city proper, we hopped off the tricycle by the pier to board the Galatea tour boat and departed for Corregidor Island Siargao, where we then hiked to the peak of the island. The panoramic view of palm trees and the sea was well worth the walk uphill amidst the mud and fatigue, briefly silencing our escalating hunger. Now back by the beach, our patience was rewarded with a delicious boodle fight of rice, crabs, prawns, stuffed squid, blue marlin, pork liempo, salted eggs, and a spread of fresh fruits with ice-cold beers and soda to boot.

The group fell silent as we all dug into our kamayan feast, stuffing handful after handful down our throats. Unable to move, we sat in the water and soaked in the sun then climbed onto the boat once more, lager in hand, music blasting. After a brief pit stop at Naked Island, a small and bare beach destination, we anchored down at Daku Island, where we played a raucous game of beach volleyball before making our way back to Siargao.

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Finally, we closed the trip with a taste of the celebrated Italian fare rumoured to dot the idyllic paradise with dinner at L’Osteria. Indeed, the rumours were true—the pizzas and pasta rival some of Manila’s best.

Although I had long been warned about how difficult it is to leave, words simply cannot do justice to Siargao’s enduring, irresistible charm. The picturesque beaches, delicious food, and vibrant nightlife certainly warrant repeat visits, but it’s really the optimism, sincerity, and hospitality on the island that keeps you tethered. There‘s something in the water over there, like looking on the bright side is the default setting, and people know no scepticism nor ill-will.

Rest assured that Siargao is more ready to welcome you back whenever you are. If anything, perhaps there is no better time to make your way down and support local tourism than right now.

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