Where to Travel 2022: Why Bohol is a Foodie's Paradise

Incredible Thai cuisine in an eccentric restaurant, an honest-to-goodness Neapolitan pizzeria, and a Korean-Taiwanese eatery with unlimited barbecue and shabu-shabu are just some of the unexpected culinary gems you'll find at Panglao island, Bohol

My first plane ride in over 15 months had me questioning all laws of aviation. Gravity doesn’t work like this, I brooded. But I held my tongue; our trip to Panglao island had already been postponed, originally slated for the 17th of December, 2021—one day after typhoon Odette wrought destruction through Visayas and Mindanao. Bohol province was not spared.

As we approached the end of our 90-minute voyage, blue skies melted into the blue waters now visible below us, white clouds hanging above clusters of green contoured by sandy shores. Physics be damned, we stepped off the metal vehicle, unaware that we were about to embark on an incredible, gluttonous weekend.

The view from the plane as we approached Bohol

The sprawling property of Amorita Resort has its share of lush greenery, too

Photo 1 of 3 The view from the plane as we approached Bohol

Photo 2 of 3 An ideal backdrop for sunset cocktails

Photo 3 of 3 The sprawling property of Amorita Resort has its share of lush greenery, too

Amorita Resort was a natural choice. Situated on the end of Alona beach, you’re greeted with an unobstructed view of the shore, the sea, and Siquijor island. The tropical villas are a welcome reprieve indeed, fitted with a private pool and patio that invite you to luxuriate as the host pours you a glass of bubbly.

Amorita has been the talk of gourmand circles thanks to an ingenious initiative known as BEATS or Bohol Eats. An avenue to highlight local ingredients, celebrate the Philippines’ best chefs, and encourage domestic tourism, the series recently capped off its 10th instalment with chef Jordy Navarra, who presented a one-night-only degustation for the lucky guests. There wasn’t a BEATS dinner during our stay, but as I shared a daiquiri with general manager Leeds Trompeta over sunset cocktails, I assured him he hasn't seen the last of me.

Above Paintings of The Beatles, Pink Floyd's The Dark Side of the Moon, and Bob Marley's "One Love" slogan

Above A portrait of Bora, Wonderland's owner

Above Fresh spring rolls, pad Thai, and stir-fried pork with basil from Wonderland Thai restaurant

Above Green curry chicken, red curry pork, stir-fried morning glory, and tom yum kung form Wonderland Thai restaurant

Stricken by the one-two punch of the COVID-19 pandemic and typhoon Odette, many bars and restaurants remained closed, including a handful that came highly recommended. In search of eats to fill our itinerary, we turned to the locals for suggestions—lesson learned, always ask the locals.

Thai restaurant Wonderland was fascinating in every sense of the word, featuring a mosaic of Che Guevarra, portraits of The Beatles, a humble collection of Korean books, and a dreamy portrait of a woman, who happens to be the restaurant’s owner. We peered into the kitchen to see the muse in action—a giddy Korean immigrant named Bora, now leading the operations while the chef is back in Thailand. She lives behind the restaurant with her seven dogs and boyfriend, the man responsible for the restaurant’s many artworks. Intrigue was at an all-time high, but we were apprehensive about the food. Each and every bite proved us wrong: the pad Thai in a luscious tamarind sauce, flavourful and spicy stir-fried pork with basil, and a beautifully balanced tom yum kung we happily devoured in the humidity of noon.

The facade of Common Crew café and co-working space, with their small roastery next door

A handy, hand-drawn coffee guide at Common Crew

The Mt Totumas was my favourite of all their signature filter coffee blends

Common Crew also brews their own kombucha, which comes in an array of unique flavours

The blondies at Common Crew were delicious, but it's the brownies that took the cake

Photo 1 of 5 The facade of Common Crew café and co-working space, with their small roastery next door

Photo 2 of 5 A handy, hand-drawn coffee guide at Common Crew

Photo 3 of 5 The Mt Totumas was my favourite of all their signature filter coffee blends

Photo 4 of 5 Common Crew also brews their own kombucha, which comes in an array of unique flavours

Photo 5 of 5 The blondies at Common Crew were delicious, but it's the brownies that took the cake

In dire need of a digestif, we left for Common Crew: a family-owned café that doubles as a co-working space, with an in-house roastery to boot. They even brew their own kombucha—the plum and triple berry is especially noteworthy, made with a plum jam from their aunt’s tree in Germany. However, if there is one item you must try and is worth the inconvenience of a carry-on, it is their brownies: decadent, rich, and impossibly fudgy, the chocolate treat is a treasured family heirloom.

Above Totò e Peppino features an impressive brick oven imported from Naples

Above The Italian sausage pizza from Totò e Peppino, a special for the day.

The heart of the nearby Neapolitan pizzeria Totò e Peppino is undoubtedly the wood-fired brick oven from Naples. A loud voice startled me as I approached it. “Go inside!,” instructed Italian chef-owner Massimo Montisano, so I hopped behind the counter, working the empty oven with the peel as they photographed the obvious tourist. As comical as he is, Montisano is serious about his pizza—his hand-made dough produces that crispy yet pillowy crust, with a slightly salty profile and a gorgeous leopard char characteristic of Neapolitan pies.

Above The Buzzz Café is a small outlet along Alona Beach operated by Bohol Bee Farm

Above Halo-halo from The Buzzz Café, with ube and buko ice cream

The Buzzz Café became our go-to for dessert—specifically, the ice cream from Bohol Bee Farm. The scoops included unique flavours like guyabano, malunggay, and durian, as well as staples ube, buko, and avocado, best enjoyed with their halo-halo. Though the frozen treats are not transit-friendly, peanut kisses, herbal teas, and the café’s cassava chips are all on display for easy gifting.

Above The extensive list of beers at Ken's Place

Above Ken's Place has a great collection of liquor, too

After an adequate walk through a questionable alleyway, we found Ken’s Place—a local pub that sees few tourists. As we chatted with the bartender over a cider, the man himself emerged: Kenneth Walbom, an automotive engineer from Sweden. Equipped with a love for craft beer and fine spirits, he now runs perhaps the best-appointed bar on the island. While cocktails are not their forte, the breadth of boozy sips doesn’t leave much to be desired, rivalled only by the potent cinnamon sangria from the Spanish restaurant Bougainvillea.

Above The Korean BBQ set from Yoo's Panga

Above Yoo's Panga also offers unlimited shabu-shabu

Our final meal at Yoo’s Panga was an apt representation of our gourmandising experiences thus far. The outlet was both Korean and Taiwanese, with all-you-can-eat barbecue and shabu-shabu to choose from—we opted for both. The Korean set came complete with slices of beef, pork, and the works, and the shabu-shabu set was just as ample, including vegetables, beef, a variety of dumplings, and even crab. Indeed, alternating bites of grilled meats and slurps of spicy broth to the tune of Usher is an essential Panglao experience.

Boarding the physics-defying vessel once more, with four trays of brownies, bags of coffee beans, cassava chips, and added bodyweight, I couldn't help but giggle. My four-day excursion was not at all what I expected. Originally on the hunt for bites native to Bohol, Panglao revealed a vibrant community of charismatic folk from all around the world—and as the itch to travel becomes irrepressible, the excitement on the island grows ever-palpable, ready to astonish unsuspecting tourists with unforgettable experiences.

NOW READ

7 Sea Creatures to Avoid When at the Beach This Summer

Where To Eat Korean Food In Metro Manila

Exploring Ilocos Sur: The Northern Region Rich With Hidden Gems

Topics

Panglao Island Bohol Amorita Resort Where to Travel Philippines Food Trip Food Tourism Food Destination

Tatler Asia

Bohol Travelogue: Why Panglao Island Should Be Your Next Food Trip Destination