My Ilocana grandmother takes me to her hometown for a weekend by the coast. Here's how I discovered the beauty of Ilocos Sur
The birthplace of my maternal grandmother, Ilocos Sur is one of the most well-known regions in northern Luzon. Though my grandmother was born in Candon, her family has since relocated to Santiago, one of the 32 municipalities in the entire region and now my current destination for a weekend getaway.
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Vigan: What Tourists Eat, and what Locals Love
Because of its decidedly laidback character, Santiago is often outshined by its more marketable neighbour, Vigan. Home to Calle Crisologo and the world-famous Ilocos empanada, Vigan is often depicted as a quaint, historic town—a must-not-miss in an itinerary of northern hotspots. Indeed, Vigan is as beautiful as they say. On a scorching hot day, my family and I found ourselves milling about the cobblestone streets of Calle Crisologo, a heritage site that locks in time from the Spanish colonial period. Even the local Jollibee is designed with capiz windows and a teja de curva roof.
Kalesas are at our beck and call and it's all we can do to keep ourselves from loading up on crispy, fried Ilocos empanada and longganisa. They say the best time of the day to come to Calle Crisologo is at sunset, when the town (literally) lights up and one can enjoy dinner on the streets. Perhaps I will never know as I stand in line at midday in one of the many pasalubong centres—Marsha's, Tongson's, you name it—waiting to buy Ilocos cornick snacks and bibingka.
We had just finished lunch at Kusina Felicitas, where we were served an impeccable taste of bagnet miki. Brightly coloured and made with annatto powder, bagnet miki is the orange-coloured specialty of the area. Despite the heat, our bowl of rice noodles, bagnet, crispy chicharon, garlic, and hot broth was a wonderful repast. It was followed by empanada at Irene's, dubbed as one of the originals in the area. Papaya, meat, and egg are deep fried into a crispy shell, which, when doused in local vinegar makes for an absolutely enticing snack.
Walking through the old town with an empanada in one hand is perhaps the most touristy thing one can do. But it doesn't discount from the excitement one feels walking around the picturesque shops that offer inabel blankets, table runners, and fashionably designed bayong bags. The only thing I wish people wouldn't overlook is another local specialty: the kalamay. A rice cake made with coconut milk and either white or brown sugar, kalamay is a sticky sweet delicacy that I have been advocating for since my first taste of it at age nine. It is an Ilocos treat that seems not to be as popular as the garlicky longganisa or the bitter papaitan, but definitely still worth your while while in Ilocos.
Off the Beaten Path
Because we were only going to be in Ilocos Sur for two days, my family thought it best to maximise the trip by compressing two days' worth of activities into one—all while running on three hours of sleep. This is how we found ourselves tired but somehow refreshed at Pinsal Falls in Pilar. During the rainy months, the falls are emboldened, sometimes flooding the surrounding areas with water. During the summer, it becomes quite meek, trickling down calmly from rock formations standing at a magnificent 85 feet. Known to the locals as the "Twin Falls", two streams of water jettison down the said rock formations unto the pool of liquid emerald water. For a few pesos, families are invited to hop onto floating bamboo huts, which are towed by skilful swimmers to get an up-close view of Pinsal Falls.