At its spring/summer 2023 fashion show, Paris fashion label Coperni introduced something even more viral than its Swipe bag: a spray-on dress. The futuristic piece was unveiled on Bella Hadid at the end of the show, as two scientists covered the supermodel in a white chemical that instantly solidified into cloth (and which could later be dissolved and reused). Amidst growing concerns about climate change and the fashion industry’s waste problem, Coperni’s timely fashion show made sustainability look sexy.

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At the helm of Balenciaga, creative director Demna Gvasalia has staged massive and provocative fashion shows that reflect and comment on the zeitgeist. The fashion brand’s fall/winter 2022 show was especially significant, taking place shortly after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. The show, which had models forging through a simulated snowstorm, and which saw a taped-up Kim Kardashian sitting on the front row, was originally meant as a nod to the climate crisis, but it also ended up mirroring the plight of Ukrainian civilians fleeing their homes. Gvasalia, a refugee himself, turned the show into a personal statement against the war and showed his support for Ukraine through T-shirts in the colours of the country’s flag. The show become one of fashion’s biggest political moments of the year.

Read more: Balenciaga’s Demna Is Bridging The Past and Future Through Couture

Fashion brands have travelled far and wide to showcase runway shows in spectacular locations, but few have ventured to Africa—which is what Chanel did when it held its first Métiers d’Art fashion show in Dakar, the capital of Senegal. For the collection, the French luxury brand drew on both its craft heritage and that of Africa’s, resulting in fashion’s most exciting cultural exchange this year.

In case you missed it: Must-See Details From Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 2023 Fashion Show

Hedi Slimane, the designer who pioneered the 2000s indie sleaze look that’s now trending on TikTok, had a full circle moment when he presented Celine’s winter 2023 collection in Los Angeles. Models wore trilby hats, the kind that were seen on The Libertines’ frontman Pete Doherty in the aughts; others walked down the runway in oversized glasses and scarves tied around their necks, a style trick borrowed from Doherty’s former girlfriend, Kate Moss. Slimane did more than emulate the era’s grungy style icons, some of whom wore his designs when he helmed Dior Homme and Saint Laurent. He sat them on the front row, in the case of singer Sky Ferreira, and even had rock bands The Strokes and Interpol close the fashion show with a concert.

At Loewe, J.W. Anderson has taken humour and playfulness and fashion to new heights. While for previous seasons he introduced shoes with eggshells for heels and dresses decorated with balloons, he punctuated Loewe’s spring/summer 2023 brand with the striking anthurium. The flower was blown up on whimsical dresses and bodysuits, or else adorned the front of the models’ heels, such as those worn by Bones and All actress Taylor Russell. Other pieces that caused a double take: colourful shoes crafted from deflated balloons, and “glitchy” sweatshirts that appeared pixellated.

The hottest destination for a fashion show in 2022? The desert, if you ask designers at Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, and Saint Laurent. The latter’s Anthony Vaccarello took to the Agafay desert near Marrakech, Yves Saint Laurent’s second home, to showcase the brand’s spring/summer 2023 menswear collection. The dark clothes nicely contrasted the sandy dunes and billowed elegantly in the wind. And as though the clothes weren’t impressive enough,  the fashion show also closed with an art installation worthy of Dune: a giant circle of light, the work of London designer Es Devlin, emerged from the dust.

Read more: 5 Things to Know About Saint Laurent’s Spring 2023 Men’s Show in Morocco

Matthieu Blazy scored one of the biggest debuts of 2022 with his first Bottega Veneta fashion show, following Daniel Lee’s departure. The former Maison Margiela designer captured the essence of quiet luxury with his minimalist ensembles that showcased a flourish for Italian craftsmanship, tailoring and surprising materials (see the tank and jeans combo that opened the show—crafted entirely from leather).

Read more: Daniel Lee Is Burberry’s New Designer—Is He the Right Fit?

Fashion saw its share of endings in 2022. One of them was the closure of Raf Simons’ 27-year-old eponymous fashion label. The influential Belgian designer held his final fashion show in the form of a party at London’s Printworks club. Guests watched as the bar transformed into a catwalk for models to show off Simons’ edgy, rave-ready ensembles. The collection was a celebration of youth, a recurring theme of Simons’ subculture-inspired designs at his namesake label that continue to inspire today.

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After over 20 years at Gucci, seven of which he served as creative director, Alessandro Michele announced his departure from the Italian fashion brand that he turned into a powerhouse in the 2010s. He made one last case for maximalist, eclectic fashion at Gucci’s spring/summer 2023 show, Twinsburg, where 68 pairs of lookalike models and twins walked the runway for a stunning spectacle.

Read more: Alessandro Michele Says Goodbye to Gucci

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