REYKJAVIK, ICELAND - JUNE 25:  Queen Elizabeth II wears the Russian fringe diamond tiara whilst attending a State Banquet in Reykjavik, Iceland.  (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
Cover Queen Elizabeth II wears the Russian fringe diamond tiara whilst attending a State Banquet in Reykjavik, Iceland. (Photo: Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)

Tatler farewells and remembers four prominent figures who were massive influences to the fashion industry

Mourning reverberated throughout the fashion industry following the news of Queen Elizabeth II’s death in September. A style inspiration and long-standing influence for many, the Queen was not the only prominent figure that we had to say “goodbye” to this year. In January, the culture-shifting and well-respected fashion editor and creative director André Leon Talley died at the age of 73, followed by another tragic news later that month that pioneering French designer Thierry Mugler, whose work defined the era of Eighties’ fashion, had passed alway. In August, legendary Japanese designer Issey Miyake, who was known for his reinvention of pleats and fabrics, died at age 84 from hepatocellular carcinoma, a type of liver cancer. 

As we come to the end of 2022, we pay tribute to the sartorial stars we lost this year—may their legacy continue to define and advance what we interpret as stylish.

Queen Elizabeth II

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KINGSTON, JAMAICA - FEBRUARY 19:  Queen Elizabeth Ll Attending A Dinner At The Governor General's Residence, Kings House, Wearing The Russian Fringe Diamond Tiara [ Originally Given To Princess Alexandra For Her Silver Wedding Anniversary In 1888 ] With A Diamond Necklace And Diamond Earrings.  (Photo by Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)
Above Queen Elizabeth Ll Attending A Dinner At The Governor General's Residence, Kings House, Wearing The Russian Fringe Diamond Tiara [ Originally Given To Princess Alexandra For Her Silver Wedding Anniversary In 1888 ] With A Diamond Necklace And Diamond Earrings. (Photo: Tim Graham Photo Library via Getty Images)

She may not have been a designer, but throughout her 70-year reign, Queen Elizabeth II gave a masterclass in elegance. The Queen demonstrated an innate understanding of visual branding, with a skilfully and tastefully curated wardrobe that spoke of her commitment to duty without compromising her personality. Her bright monochromatic outfits, handmade shoes, trusty Launer handbags and careful jewellery choices were often quiet displays of diplomacy. She lived beyond trends and so was a true style icon.

Read more: In Pictures: Queen Elizabeth’s Most Iconic Style Moments

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Above Queen Elizabeth II at her Platinum Jubilee in 2022 (Photo: Getty Images)
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Above Queen Elizabeth II on a visit to Hungary in 1993 (Photo: Getty Images)

André Leon Talley

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SAVANNAH, GA - NOVEMBER 02:  Andre Leon Talley speaks during 'The Gospel According to AndrŽ' Q&A during the 21st SCAD Savannah Film Festival on November 2, 2018 in Savannah, Georgia.  (Photo by Cindy Ord/Getty Images for SCAD)
Above Andre Leon Talley speaks during 'The Gospel during the 21st SCAD Savannah Film Festival in 2018 (Photo by Cindy Ord/Getty Images for SCAD)

A beloved fashion editor and one of the first African Americans to be recognised for his influence in the field, André Leon Talley is a hero to many. A queer, Black man who did not—unlike many of his peers—come from a privileged background, he battled homophobia and racism in his personal and professional lives. Standing six foot six inches tall, Vogue’s former editor-at-large was a towering figure both literally and figuratively. His impact stretched far beyond the pages of the publication: he championed Black designers, models and other fashion professionals through his bold editorials, and other substantive writing in his Vogue “StyleFax” columns. His larger-than-life personal style often took the form of statement kaftans, hats and robes which made him stand out even more on the front rows.

In case you missed it: 5 Asian Designers André Leon Talley Championed Before They Were Cool

Issey Miyake

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Above Designer Issey Miyake (Photo: Getty Images)

Best known for his innovative pleats, Issey Miyake was dedicated to integrating modern technology into traditional Japanese designs. He believed that clothes speak for themselves and that the spotlight should be on them, and not their designers. Miyake created clothing that looked like sculptures but that responded to the way the body moves.

His “A Piece of Cloth” invention is a revolutionary seamless woven fabric constructed with an industrial knitting machine; similar craftsmanship is evident in his handbag brand Bao Bao Issey Miyake, a range of visually striking, instantly recognisable geometric designs. Miyake was the first non-western designer to show at Paris Fashion Week in 1973, paving the way for others to be recognised at the forefront of fashion. His legacy provides a wealth of education for future generations of designers to learn from, and he will be remembered for his innovative reinvention of tradition, his bravery in embracing new textile technologies and silhouettes, and his aim of “designing for the many”.

Read more: Rest in Pleats: Fashion Designer Issey Miyake Dies at 84

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Above Issey Miyake spring-summer 1995
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Above Issey Miyake Onion Flower Bud Coat, New York, 1987 (Photo: The Irving Penn Foundation)

Manfred Thierry Mugler

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Above Designer Thierry Mugler (Photo: Getty Images)

His influences can be found in the daring designs of the late Alexander McQueen, the flamboyance of John Galliano and, in recent years, the biomimetic designs of Iris Van Herpen—Manfred Thierry Mugler was the true king of camp. Over 30 years, Mugler created countless pieces that defined Eighties fashion and empowered women: the Birth of Venus dress, robotic suits, the Harley-Davidson corset, and most spectacularly, the 1995 Haute Couture collection with its 107 fantastical looks. The Frenchman recognised the power of celebrities, and they in turn revered him: his designs have been reinterpreted by pop culture icons such as Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Kim Kardashian and Cardi B. His fascination with theatre, music and gender-inclusive models made every Mugler show an over-the-top spectacle, and his OTT designs continue to guide and inspire each new generation of designers.

Don't miss: Is This Danish Designer The Next Thierry Mugler?

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Défilé Thierry Mugler, Prêt-à-Porter, collection Automne-Hiver 1995-96 à Paris en mars 1995, France. (Photo by Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Thierry Mugler Ready to Wear autumn-winter 1995-96 fashion show (Photo: Daniel SIMON/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
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PARIS, FRANCE - OCTOBER: A model walks the runway at the Thierry Mugler Ready to Wear Spring/Summer 1992 fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week in October, 1991 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Thierry Mugler Ready to Wear spring-summer 1992 fashion show (Photo: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

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