Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen of Danish label Han Kjøbenhavn showed a subversive take on Scandi fashion at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS22

When Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen made his debut at Milan Fashion Week in January, critics knew there was something different about this Danish designer whose aesthetic veered in the opposite direction to many of his peers in Scandi fashion who are known for their candy-like fashion confections. At Han Kjøbenhavn, severe silhouettes and dark palettes reigned, bringing to mind the work of legendary French designer Thierry Mugler, who was best known for creating exaggerated, almost fetishistic shapes with his clothes. 

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Davidsen's debut collection featured a male model with Frankenstein-esque hair, wearing leather coats with sharp metallic corners at the shoulders or hips and even a baroque ballgown complete with a crinoline skirt.

 

For spring-summer 2022, Davidsen furthers his dramatic vision, presenting his collection in the darkened attic of an apartment building in Copenhagen. As haunting, operatic music played, his models glided unhurriedly, allowing spectators to take in the full extent of the clothes: jutting shouldered jackets and pleated gowns with trains; gowns cut out at the chest outlined with crystals or slashed up to the hips—each piece more provocative than the next. And that was Davidsen's intention. "I always want to make people feel something. That is the purpose of designing a collection," he tells me.

A pleated, fanned column had hints of some of Balenciaga's most iconic work. "If I must only choose one piece that was the most difficult to make, it has to be the black plissé dress. It took such a long time creating because of the technique and the proportions we had to build by hand," he says.

We can't wait to see what this emerging designer does next.

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