Cover Dior's haute couture spring 2023 collection is inspired by Josephine Baker

See all the best haute couture Spring 2023 looks, from Schiaparelli's surrealist masterpieces to Giambattista Valli's glamorous gowns

Something is different about Haute Couture Week this season.

For the first time in a while, we're seeing a creative energy, almost fervour, from designers, one that has laid dormant throughout the pandemic and arguably even long before that. It could be that the recent departure of fashion giants, such as André Leon Talley, Thierry Mugler, Hanae Mori, Issey Miyake, and Vivienne Westwood, has given the entire industry a sharp reminder of a time before sales and shock value dictated design.

Or perhaps the contagious inventiveness and innovation embodied by new blood, such as Miss Sohee and Robert Wun, both of whom are making their haute couture debut in Paris, has caught on and induced a renewed focus. Either way, the stunning results in Paris speak for themselves and paints an optimistic picture for the future of fashion. 

Related: Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023: The best menswear looks from Loewe, Louis Vuitton, and more

Take a look at the best spring 2023 creations at Paris Couture Fashion Week.

Robert Wun

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Another first on the last day of Couture Week, Robert Wun becomes the first designer from Hong Kong to show at the prestigious fashion event. The closely watched designer, whose creations have become a celebrity staple, chooses a whimsical route for his debut. Each piece is a story frozen in time, with his trademark touch peaking through from wine-stained gowns and 'rain'-soaked coats. 

Miss Sohee

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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Miss Sohee Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Above Photo: Peter White/Getty Images
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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Miss Sohee Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Above Photo: Peter White/Getty Images
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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 24: (EDITORIAL USE ONLY - For Non-Editorial use please seek approval from Fashion House) A model walks the runway during the Miss Sohee Haute Couture Spring Summer 2023 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on January 24, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images)
Above Photo: Peter White/Getty Images

London-based South Korean designer Sohee Park makes her well-deserved haute couture debut at Paris Fashion Week. While she is known for her elaborate, sculptural, voluminous gowns with matching headpieces, her risky decision to take on more streamlined silhouettes in her haute couture creations pays off. She kicks off the show with a simple black dress incorporating her signature shimmering shells and continues to build the tension with dark, seductive looks that show off her strengths in embroidery. 

See also: How Miss Sohee found fans in Gemma Chan, Cardi B and more

Rahul Mishra

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Rahul Mishra makes history as the first Indian designer to show at Couture Week. His divine creations, inspired by the Cosmos and the legendary city of Atlantis, is a beautiful collision of blue, gold and green. 

See also: Milan Fashion Week: Dhruv Kapoor features Godzilla in Fall 2023 menswear collection

Schiaparelli

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Don't let the superfluous noise about whether Daniel Roseberry is promoting animal cruelty and trophy hunting—he's not, as confirmed by even the most extreme animal rights advocate, PETA—distract you from his incredible accomplishment in embodying the real meaning of haute couture: craftsmanship and unbridled creativity. The young creative director honours Elsa Schiaparelli's legacy in more ways than one, most notably the gowns featuring handcrafted heads of lion, snow leopard and wolf, modelled down the catwalk by Naomi Campbell, Shalom Harlow and Irina Shayk. 

See also: 'Renaissance': Beyoncè stuns in Schiaparelli on her latest album cover

Giambattista Valli

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Giambattista Valli's haute couture show leans into fun and femininity with gorgeous gowns featuring bows of all sizes, voluminous sleeves, bubble hems, and tulle trains. It was opulent and over the top in the most elegant way—and we can't wait to see these designs gracing the red carpet in upcoming awards season. 

Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann

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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25 : A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25 : A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
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PARIS, FRANCE - JANUARY 25 : A model walks the runway during the Jean Paul Gaultier by Haider Ackermann Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week on January 25, 2023 in Paris, France. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)
Above Photo: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Haider Ackermann's minimalist haute couture designs for Jean Paul Gaultier received a standing ovation in Paris. A stark contrast to Olivier Rousteing's loving but lacking tribute to the iconic designer, Ackermann puts a focus on the intricacies of garment making. We see masterful navigation of interesting fabrics, such as faille, crepe and grain de poudre, to execute his vision of deconstructing traditional silhouettes, from tuxes to gowns and bustiers. 

Throwback: Timothée Chalamet and Haider Ackermann release hoodie for charity

Chanel

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With the help of artist Xavier Veilhan, Chanel's creative director Virginie Viard transforms the Grand Palais Éphémère into a tribute to the various animal sculptures, such as marble lions, gold frog, and carved wooden deers, that can be found in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. For spring 2023, she presents tweed creations playfully embroidered with birds, dogs, and kittens. However, the best looks were the ones that dispensed with the bestiary theme and balanced whimsical elements, such as top hats, bow ties and majorette jackets, with what should have been the main focus of her collection: A celebration of embroidery. 

See also: 10 most unforgettable fashion shows of 2022

Valentino

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Club looks go couture as creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli celebrates the "synergetic, spontaneous language between the lexicon of Couture and the world of nightclubbing". Ballgowns and tuxedos are re-proportioned, scaled up with voluminous ruffles or cut down with bows and sashes. Bold mini dresses are adorned with sparkling sequins. 

See also: The most stylish Asian stars at Paris Couture Fashion Week, Michelle Yeoh to BTS' Suga

Dior

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Maria Grazia Chiuri draws inspiration from Joséphine Baker, one of the most fascinating women in history. With velvet robes, cabaret feathers and fringe dresses, she makes references to the roaring twenties where Baker forged a name for herself as a burlesque performer in Paris. 

Giorgio Armani Privé

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An ethereal exploration of lines, light and colours, Giorgio Armani's spring 2023 collection comprises of long, fluid silhouettes. Some are softened flashes of tulles and embroidered floral detailing, while others are put into focus by the sharpening of the diamond motif with bold colour.

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