Designers take haute couture to the next level at Paris Fashion Week

Another first on the last day of Couture Week, Robert Wun becomes the first designer from Hong Kong to show at the prestigious fashion event. The closely watched designer, whose creations have become a celebrity staple, chooses a whimsical route for his debut. Each piece is a story frozen in time, with his trademark touch peaking through from wine-stained gowns and 'rain'-soaked coats. 

London-based South Korean designer Sohee Park makes her well-deserved haute couture debut at Paris Fashion Week. While she is known for her elaborate, sculptural, voluminous gowns with matching headpieces, her risky decision to take on more streamlined silhouettes in her haute couture creations pays off. She kicks off the show with a simple black dress incorporating her signature shimmering shells and continues to build the tension with dark, seductive looks that show off her strengths in embroidery. 

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Rahul Mishra makes history as the first Indian designer to show at Couture Week. His divine creations, inspired by the Cosmos and the legendary city of Atlantis, is a beautiful collision of blue, gold and green. 

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Don't let the superfluous noise about whether Daniel Roseberry is promoting animal cruelty and trophy hunting—he's not, as confirmed by even the most extreme animal rights advocate, PETA—distract you from his incredible accomplishment in embodying the real meaning of haute couture: craftsmanship and unbridled creativity. The young creative director honours Elsa Schiaparelli's legacy in more ways than one, most notably the gowns featuring handcrafted heads of lion, snow leopard and wolf, modelled down the catwalk by Naomi Campbell, Shalom Harlow and Irina Shayk. 

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Giambattista Valli's haute couture show leans into fun and femininity with gorgeous gowns featuring bows of all sizes, voluminous sleeves, bubble hems, and tulle trains. It was opulent and over the top in the most elegant way—and we can't wait to see these designs gracing the red carpet in upcoming awards season. 

Haider Ackermann's minimalist haute couture designs for Jean Paul Gaultier received a standing ovation in Paris. A stark contrast to Olivier Rousteing's loving but lacking tribute to the iconic designer, Ackermann puts a focus on the intricacies of garment making. We see masterful navigation of interesting fabrics, such as faille, crepe and grain de poudre, to execute his vision of deconstructing traditional silhouettes, from tuxes to gowns and bustiers. 

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With the help of artist Xavier Veilhan, Chanel's creative director Virginie Viard transforms the Grand Palais Éphémère into a tribute to the various animal sculptures, such as marble lions, gold frog, and carved wooden deers, that can be found in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. For spring 2023, she presents tweed creations playfully embroidered with birds, dogs, and kittens. However, the best looks were the ones that dispensed with the bestiary theme and balanced whimsical elements, such as top hats, bow ties and majorette jackets, with what should have been the main focus of her collection: A celebration of embroidery. 

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Club looks go couture as creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli celebrates the "synergetic, spontaneous language between the lexicon of Couture and the world of nightclubbing". Ballgowns and tuxedos are re-proportioned, scaled up with voluminous ruffles or cut down with bows and sashes. Bold mini dresses are adorned with sparkling sequins. 

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Maria Grazia Chiuri draws inspiration from Joséphine Baker, one of the most fascinating women in history. With velvet robes, cabaret feathers and fringe dresses, she makes references to the roaring twenties where Baker forged a name for herself as a burlesque performer in Paris. 

An ethereal exploration of lines, light and colours, Giorgio Armani's spring 2023 collection comprises of long, fluid silhouettes. Some are softened flashes of tulles and embroidered floral detailing, while others are put into focus by the sharpening of the diamond motif with bold colour.

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