Renaissance paintings come to life in the 21st century in Loewe's latest collection. There is a unique and elegant stiffness in the garments, whether it's in the sculpted silhouettes of coats, the folds of leather and satin or the angel wings. It is an original and surrealist take on the much-referenced era—made even more interesting by the accompanying artwork of American artist Julien Nguyen, commissioned to reinterpret famous paintings by the old masters. 

Related: Grass is greener in Loewe's surrealist Spring 2023 menswear collection

There's more than meets the eye in Colm Dillaine's collection for Louis Vuitton. Classic coats are plastered with panels of landscapes, playful messages, and moiré graphics.  His designs bring much-needed levity to the French luxury brand after the loss of its creative visionary, Virgil Abloh.

Dillaine's approach to storytelling is thorough and elevated by elaborate staging as well as a captivating performance by Spanish singer Rosalía. He balances his own unique perspective with Louis Vuitton's legacy, particularly Abloh's. It is a promising display of finesse in navigating incredibly well-established maison—something we cannot say for previous attempts by others, most notably fashion giant Kim Jones's failure to hold his own at Fendi, especially against Versace in their recent Fendace collaboration. 

Is this the first step towards a more permanent position at Louis Vuitton? Only time will tell but it's safe to say that we're very much behind it. 

Related: 9 coffee table books celebrating fashion's biggest icons

Rick Owens made an impact with Tyrone Susman's opening look. It set the scene perfectly for his Victorian-inspired collection, complete with capes, spiked shoulders, opulent fabrics and tunic silhouettes. Consistent with trends from Milan, we're also seeing more volume, with intriguing puffer coats and gilets. 

See also: Asia's Most Stylish 2022: Raja Malek's life in pictures

Impeccable designs and flawless execution, Anthony Vaccarello's menswear collection is an extension of his last showcase. Saint Laurent's gratifying homecoming definitely sets the highest bar for all that is to come at Paris Fashion Week. 

See also: 5 things to know about Saint Laurent's spring/summer 2023 men's show in Morocco

Louis-Gabriel Nouchi pulls a power move by dressing TV's biggest stars from The White Lotus and Emily in Paris in his American Psycho-themed collection. Not the first time he was inspired by novels, the avid reader had previously based his collections on Albert Camus's L'Étranger and Curzio Malaparte's The Skin.

This time, he repackages Bret Easton Ellis's sinister themes of violence and misogyny—which are unfortunately still relevant in the age of incels—in vintage suit tailoring with padded coats and cinched waists, as well as menacing flashes of red and black leather. 

See also: American Psycho: Breaking down Patrick Bateman's iconic skincare regimen

For his previous Spring 2023 collection, Dries van Noten was inspired by the 1940s Zazous movement led by young Parisians who wore bright colours and eccentric suits. For Fall 2023, the Belgian designer explores another explores another interesting subculture: the '90s rave scene. Stealing the show are the floral prints, swirl graphics and acid wash motifs splashed across coats and shirts—styled with nostalgic track pants, sports jerseys and webbed tops for full effect.

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