Alessandro Michele's departure was definitely felt in Gucci's latest collection. For the first time in a while, we're seeing toned down looks and more traditionally masculine elements, from slouchy and oversized silhouettes to references to streetwear. While the team deserves kudos for doing their best under the circumstances, the collection as a whole needed more cohesion and direction. Instead, it evokes the same vibe as a stylish, eccentric couple's jumble sale of their favourite pieces throughout the years. 

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Silvia Venturini Fendi knocks it out the park yet again with her fall/winter 2023 menswear collection. Sombre elements, such as muted winter palette and plentiful cashmere in cozy silhouettes, are alleviated by playful accessories. Our favourites include her quite literal reinterpretations of the Fendi baguette, on the heels of the iconic handbag's 25th anniversary, as well as sprinkles of sequins. 

See also: How Delfina Delettrez Fendi set her family crest in the world of high jewellery

Nobody could guess what Jonathan Anderson was up to when he scrubbed his entire Instagram page and posted intriguing teasers of his upcoming collection, including a picture of a man applying vaseline and a confusing selfie. What he presented was a simple yet show-stopping collection.

We saw clean silhouettes juxtaposed against quirky detailing, such as ruffles on leather skirts or shrunken proportions, as well as accessories incorporating his trademark surrealism, including frog Wellipets clutches and shoes, bright boots, and comfy pillows. 

"A blank slate. Reducing, compressing, condensing: with a certain crudeness and definite bluntness... No fuss, no extra, no more. Everything is what it is, and that’s it," explains his show notes. 

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Described as 'a further exploration of the fundamentals of fashion', Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons present a stripped down study of menswear essentials, especially the humble collar. Reductionist tailoring with bare skin are accentuated by shards of knit and print under pointed collars. 

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Dean and Dan Caten, the Canadian twins behind Dsquared2, show us what it means to do a y2k revival. They leaned into the real, unhinged and ugly elements of what made the '90s and early '00s unique, and made it their own, from eviscerated jeans and trucker hats to baby tees.

Whether it was intentional or not, each piece harked back to tabloid headlines that caused outrage around the world. For instance, the cropped baby onesie reminded us of when Megan Fox stepped out in her toddler stepson's Star Wars top. And who could forget the havoc that the veiled messages on Paris Hilton and Julia Roberts's graphic tees wreaked upon the masses? 

Longtime fans of Dsquared2 will also be delighted by references to the designer duo's Canada-inspired Fall 2004 collection. 

That said, this collection hopefully marks the end of this nostalgic aesthetic in mainstream fashion as other fashion houses are moving on to the next, more minimalist looks.

The Oasi of Cashmere is Zegna's love letter to the luxurious fabric. This first chapter of the collection features a small selection of items from the upcoming partnership with LA-based luxury lifestyle company, The Elder Statesman. The second chapter with more collaborative items will debut at the end of February during Paris Fashion Week.

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Giorgio Armani's latest collection draws inspiration from marble Milanese palazzos, manifesting in elegant silhouettes, a classically neutral colour palette, and impeccable craftsmanship in handling classic Italian luxury textiles, from cashmere and alpaca to velvet and drapery. 

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This New Delhi-based contemporary label known for its innovative designs and eye-catching prints closes out Milan Fashion week with a captivating collection created in collaboration with the Godzilla franchise. 

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