The cultural wanderer’s guide to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

Airport 

Before my arrival, I had been warned about the airport situation in the city—a fair warning for the restless and agitated: patience is required. Upon checking in, you’ll wait at least an hour and a half to be screened by the immigration officer, no matter what passport you hold.

Getting your luggage takes another 30 minutes or so. If your flight arrives at the same time as others, expect an additional 15-minute wait at customs.

The long lines and delays are all worth it when you think of what awaits outside. According to the Airports Corporation of Vietnam (ACV), construction of a new terminal at Tân Sơn Nhất International Airport is now 83 per cent complete, with plans to open by April 30, 2025.

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Where to go: 

There are plenty of things to do in the city, including sightseeing and exploring local markets. For those who want to get to know the city and familiarise themselves with its surroundings more quickly, a hop-on, hop-off bus tour is incredibly helpful, as it allows you to visit key landmarks at your own pace.

It might not be the ideal place to top your list of places to explore in Ho Chi Minh, but the War Remnants Museum provides crucial context for your entire experience in Vietnam. 

Founded in 1975, shortly after the end of the American War, the War Remnants Museum is one of the oldest institutions in the city. Unsettling photographs, harrowing artefacts, and experimental weapons are stored throughout its halls, each serving as a stark reminder of the war's devastating impact.

The museum’s ground floor presents a more global perspective, with displays of international anti-war protests and solidarity, serving as a counterpoint to the harrowing scenes above. What affected me the most were the upper floors, which illustrate the devastating effects of chemical warfare, particularly the use of Agent Orange. It was there that I found myself moved to tears.

The United States military used Agent Orange—a potent herbicide and defoliant—as part of its strategy to eliminate the dense vegetation that provided cover for the Viet Cong and North Vietnamese Army. The most widely used among a number of ‘colour-coded’ chemicals, Agent Orange, was sprayed from cargo planes and helicopters in an attempt to expose enemy forces. 

The deadly threat, however, was in a contaminant called 2,3,7,8-tetrachloro-dibenzo-para-dioxin, or TCDD, which would turn out to have long-lasting and profoundly harmful effects, including birth defects, cancer, liver damage, and neurological disorders. 

While the American government initially allocated over USD 197 million in compensation to American veterans exposed to Agent Orange, getting restitution for Vietnamese citizens has proven to be much more challenging. As of this writing, the United States has yet to issue an official apology or accept responsibility for Agent Orange.

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From Hai Bà Trưng Street to Notre Dame Cathedral, Book Street is home to tea and coffee shops and more than 20 bookstores. It is hailed as one of the oldest streets in the city. The street also features book exhibitions and themed displays of newspapers and photographs, creating a vibrant cultural space that connects books, publishers, and readers.

Tourists who want to take a piece of Saigon home can pick up postcards and keychains or even have their portraits painted by local artists on the sidewalk.

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Traces of French architecture can still be seen around Ho Chi Minh decades after its colonisation. Among the most notable examples is the Saigon Central Post Office, where you can send heartful letters to your loved ones in other parts of the world. 

I managed to write two letters during my visit. I was told they would likely reach their destinations within two to three weeks. However, I was also informed that some messages take longer to arrive, and in some cases, they never reach their intended recipients.

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My friends and I waddled through the noticeably crowded shops located on the left and right wing of the building. While exploring, I overheard a guide mention that the post office is over a century old. Built between 1886 and 1891 during the French colonial period, the facility was designed by architect Marie-Alfred Foulhoux, though it is often mistakenly attributed to Gustave Eiffel.

Hanging prominently in the hall’s centre is a large portrait of Hồ Chí Minh. Above, an arched dome spans the length of the building, supported by a series of pillars that add a sense of grandeur.

Outside, the posthouse will captivate you with its yellow-painted walls, arched windows, and decorative reliefs. Merchants will also attempt to offer street food, flowers, and all sorts of affordable souvenirs. 

Tourists flock to the Saigon Opera House to either watch a play or take photographs of its stunning facade. Initially built in 1898 and completed in 1900, the opera house was the French colonial response to a growing demand for cultural entertainment in South Vietnam. 

By the time the interwar years rolled around, the Opera House had begun to lose its appeal to the middle class, who were all at the city’s trendier nightclubs and dance halls. But the building wasn’t ready to fade just yet. In 1943, in a bid to modernise, the French colonial authorities stripped back some of its ornate decorations, including engravings and statues, to achieve a streamlined look.

Often referred to as the twin sister of the Hanoi Opera House, the performance hall was designed by Félix Olivier, Ernest Guichard and Eugène Ferret.

Step inside, and you're greeted by a main seating floor and two balcony levels designed with the same sense of theatrical grandeur. With a capacity for 500 guests, the theatre has become a cosy but captivating venue for everything—from highbrow operas to more modern performances that showcase Vietnam's evolving artistic scene. 

Author’s tip: Quench your thirst at nearby Circle K shops and restaurants just behind the Opera House. For those who want to start their hop-on hop-off bus tour, a kiosk can be found on the left side of this tourist location. 

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For lovers of visual art, the Museum of Fine Arts offers a chance to immerse yourself in a variety of works, from traditional Vietnamese lacquer paintings and sculptures to contemporary art. The museum’s architecture is also worth noting, with its old-world charm providing a visually captivating backdrop for your visit.

However, for the sake of honesty, I found the place less impactful than I had hoped. While the museum provides a pleasant atmosphere for those seeking picturesque spots—thanks to the way natural light filters through its windows—the art itself doesn’t seem to receive the care it deserves.

Walking through the rooms, I noticed that the artworks appear to be poorly preserved, displayed in dimly lit rooms with unflattering colours that diminish their weight. The museum was filled with tourists, but it seemed to serve more as a backdrop for photos than as a place where art is truly appreciated.  There's a lot of potential here, but the museum’s curatorial approach could benefit from a bit more attention to preserving and showcasing the works in a more thoughtful, engaging way.

Nonetheless, it made me appreciate the depth and diversity of Vietnamese art even more. Some of my favourite works were by the celebrated portrait artist Kim Bach, Tran Kim Hung, and Phan Hoai Phi.

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Most Vietnamese merchants here speak Filipino, which might initially shock you if it’s your first time hearing it. Their accents are so spot-on that it’s hard to believe they’re not native speakers. Situated in the heart of District One, the Bến Thành Market is one of the city’s oldest surviving landmarks. 

The place, which operates year-round, opens daily at 6:00 a.m. and runs until 6:00 p.m., after which it transforms into a bustling night market that is open until 10 in the evening.

The Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon is another architectural treasure you should not miss. Built between 1863 and 1880 (and still undergoing renovations today), the structure was originally called the ‘Church of Saigon’. Its origins trace back to the French colonisation of Cochinchina when the Roman Catholic Church sought to establish a community and provide religious services for the French settlers. The first church, built on what is now Ngô Đức Kế Street, quickly proved inadequate, prompting Bishop Dominique Lefèbvre to envision a larger structure.

The building materials were sourced from France, with bricks from Toulouse forming the exterior walls. These bricks have retained their vibrant red colour over the years, as no coated concrete was used. On October 7, 1877, Bishop Isidore Colombert laid the first stone, and three years later, in April 1880, a blessing ceremony was held, marking the cathedral's completion.

In 1895, two towering bell towers, each reaching 57.6 metres, were added, along with six bronze bells weighing 28.85 metric tonnes. Atop each tower, crosses measuring 3.5 metres high and 600 kg in weight were installed, bringing the cathedral's total height to 60.5 metres from base to cross.

A statue of the Virgin Mary stands proudly in front of Saigon Notre-Dame Cathedral, drawing widespread attention in October 2005 when locals claimed it had shed tears. While the Catholic Church of Vietnam swiftly dismissed these reports, the allure of a potential miracle continues to draw thousands of visitors, all hoping for a glimpse of the divine.

I first caught a glimpse of the famed Cafe Apartments atop the bus during our hop-on-hop-off tour. Packed with aesthetically pleasing cafes, fashion boutiques, and vinyl shops to hang out, meet up, and socialise, this nine-storey building was constructed in the middle of the 20th century and was initially used to house government officials, American military advisors, naval officers, and shipyard workers. 

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The Cu Chi tunnel system was a clever strategy employed by the Vietnamese to outwit the Americans during the war. This vast network of tunnels served as a vital base of operations for the Vietnamese forces.

The tunnels were not only used as hiding places for soldiers during combat, but also acted as crucial communication lines, supply routes, makeshift hospitals, and storage for food and weapons. They even served as living quarters for numerous fighters.

Inside the tunnels, the Vietnamese crafted various bamboo traps designed to injure or kill soldiers tasked with searching them. Additionally, ventilation shafts were cleverly placed to release smoke and mitigate the effects of poisonous gases that American forces attempted to pump into the tunnels.

Depending on the itinerary of your Mekong Delta tour, you’ll have the chance to immerse yourself in various unforgettable experiences that will make you feel genuinely connected to the heart and soul of Vietnam.

From sipping on sweet honey tea with a hint of lime to trying the famous ‘magic rice wine’—a potent blend of rice wine and a dead king cobra—you’ll discover flavours as adventurous as the region. You might even find yourself dancing with the locals, enjoying the lively spirit of the Delta, or refreshing yourself with a chilled coconut straight from the tree.

The city’s quirks are on full display in Bùi Viện Street. By the time we arrived, it was already late, and while my friends and I were still sober, everyone else seemed to already be in full swing. The area was alive with women dancing in revealing outfits, people playfully waving Roman candles, and, oddly enough, a man casually strolling around with a massive white python draped over his shoulders.

Before 1975, Bùi Viện was unofficially called the “International Intersection” by journalists and artists who used to work in the area. In the years that followed, this alley grew into a popular hotspot for tourists looking to unwind and spend one woozy night in Vietnam.

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