The cultural wanderer’s guide to Binondo, Manila

The Minor Basilica and National Shrine of San Lorenzo Ruiz or Binondo Church was founded by Dominican priests in 1596 as a gift to the Sangleys, or Chinese people who converted to Christianity. 

The church got its name from Filipino martyr saint, Lorenzo Ruiz, who was beatified in 1981 and canonised in 1987. According to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila, Ruiz served as an altar boy and clerk-sacristan in the church of Binondo. He was also a member of the Confraternity of the Most Holy Rosary, an international association of the Catholic faithful established. 

On July 23, 1992, Pope John Paul II granted Binondo Church the “minor basilica” title. This designation may be granted due to the place's architectural beauty, liturgical renown, or historical significance. As of this post, it remains the 10th minor basilica in the Philippines and the fourth in the Archdiocese of Manila.

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Below are some of the liturgical services offered in Binondo Church:

• Mass
  
  Monday to Saturday at 12.15pm and 5pm
  Sunday at 8.30am, 10am, 12.15am, and 5pm
  
  
• Baptism
  
  Monday to Saturday at 10.30am
  Sunday at 11am (Communal)
  
  
• Confession
  
  Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 11am to 12pm
  Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 3 to 4.30pm

Built in 1911 by American civil engineer Ramon Irureta-Goyena and Francisco Perez Muñoz, the mesmerising El Hogar Filipino building served as a wedding gift to Margarita Zóbel de Ayala from Peruvian Count Antonio Melian. 

“El Hogar Filipino”, a Spanish phrase that translates to “The Philippine home”, is located along the streets of Juan Luna and Muelle Dela Industria. This four-storey-high building housed the Melian business empire, including the Filipinas Compañía de Seguros, the first Filipino-owned fire insurance company; Tondo de Beneficiencia; Casa de España; Casa de Pensiones; and financing cooperative Sociedad El Hogar Filipino.

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In February 2014, news reports revealed that the building was sold to Chinese-Filipino real estate developers The Ritz Premiere Corporation who allegedly planned to demolish the building and turn it into a condominium. 

The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) issued a cease and desist order and made an effort to acquire the property.

The planned purchase did not come to fruition as the NHCP and El Hogar's new owners could not agree on the amount. Today, El Hogar can only amuse you with its shattered remains. Its fate remains uncertain.  

Did you know? According to researchers from the University of Santo Tomas (UST) College of Architecture, Kapitan Tiago, a character from Jose Rizal's Noli Me Tangere, once lived on the same site where El Hogar stands today. 

Years have passed, yet the beaux-arts and art deco architecture of Escolta continue to decorate Manila with a nostalgic grandeur. As with every other cultural location in the Philippines, this humble street provides a piece of the past neatly tucked into the very modern skyscrapers of the city. 

Nestled along this street is the newly-opened Yuchengco Park which offers a scenic view of the Manila Central Post Office and Jones Bridge. A cultural hub called The Hub is also located inside the First United Building (see map below).

Tatler Tip: For those who love taking photographs, it is best to go around 3:00-4:00 p.m. when the Pasig river clearly mirrors the shell of the post office.

Related: The harrowing fate of the Central Post Office building and how it is rising from the ashes

The Manila Chinatown Arch, located in Plaza Moraga, Binondo, stands 63.8 ft high and is said to be the world’s largest Chinatown arch.

Inaugurated on June 23, 2015, the arch cost PhP 28 million to construct and was funded by China Energy Fund Committee. In a Rappler report, architect Saul Simon Tan described the Chinese arch as a “fusion of modern and traditional designs with three pagodas”.

Did you know? The arch is 3.8 feet taller than the Chinatown arch found in Washington, DC, which is only 60 feet and seven inches tall.

Initially named after Spanish dramatist, poet, and playwright Calderón de la Barca, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz is a major public square in the middle of Quintin Paredes Street (east) and Juan Luna Street (west). After the completion of Binondo Church in 1854, the mercantile activity in the plaza rapidly increased; however, this changed in the 1960s when most businesses shifted from Manila to Makati and Cubao, Quezon City. 

In 2005, the local government of Manila redeveloped Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz with the help of the Metrobank Foundation, which donated PHP 3 million for the rehabilitation. 

Today, the 1200 square metre plaza showcases park benches, royal palm trees, 42 promenade lampposts, and a statue of the first Filipino saint, Lorenzo Ruiz. 

See also: Binondo Food Trip 2020: Where To Get The Best Chinese Delicacies in Manila’s Old Chinatown

Eating in Toho Panciteria is a gastronomical and historical adventure in one. Touted as the “Philippines’ oldest restaurant”, this diner offers authentic Chinese cuisine, including kikiam, yang chao, lumpiang shanghai pork, miki bihon, and more. The origin of the bistro dates back to 1888 when Wong Tai Tang, one of five Chinese immigrant founders, took over the management when his friends returned to Guangdong. The restaurant has since been passed down through generations of the Wong family.

Some believe that Jose Rizal used to dine at Toho Panciteria when he was still a student at UST. Tatler has yet to confirm whether this theory is factual. 

The Department of Tourism, Culture and Arts of Manila, on the other hand, claims that Toho Panciteria served Andres Bonifacio, who used to drop by the restaurant for his pancit and asado before attending meetings with the Katipunan.  

In case you missed it: The best Chinese restaurants in the Tatler Dining Guide 2023

End your adventure with pastries and iced beverages from 19 19 Cafe. The diner used to be the old, abandoned building of Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC), the Philippines’ oldest foreign bank.

Established on November 11, 1875, the neoclassical structure located on Juan Luna Street was designed by Architect GH Hayward and built by contractor Oscar F. Campbell. The lower floors used to be the office of HSBC, while the upper floors were leased to Smith Bell & Co. Ltd. 

Among the dishes and drinks offered by the cafe are braised abalone, vegetable dumplings, truffle mushroom soup, Thai salad, sous vide duck breast with strawberry bourbon sauce, wagyu beef, and a wide selection of wine. 

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