The Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch in Binondo, Manila
Cover The Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch in Binondo, Manila

The world’s oldest Chinatown is alive now more than ever. Home to more than 20,000 locals, the area is known for its time-honoured bistros, neoclassical establishments, and vibrant culture

In Binondo, it is the people who make the place. This small district shows everything there is to love about Filipino urban culture: oddly enchanting hubbubs among enthusiastic vendors, distinctive jeepney noises, friendly locals, and authentic Chinese diners that take you on a culinary journey like no other. Every piece of the world’s oldest Chinatown is a reminder of Manila’s enduring cultural tapestry, a place your foot touches once but your heart remembers forever.

To get to Binondo, one must pass through the giant New Binondo Chinatown Arch at the foot of Jones Bridge. Built in 2015, the gateway is the largest of its kind in the world. From the left side of the bridge, visitors can see the shell of the El Hogar Filipino building, a wedding present from Antonio Melián Pavía to his bride Margarita Zóbel de Ayala. Once a marvel, this structure has fallen into ruin, reflecting the challenges it faced in the past decades. 

To the right is the Manila Central Post Office, a picturesque structure designed by Juan M Arellano, Tomas Mapua, and Ralph Doane.

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Photo 1 of 3 A street sign in Binondo
Photo 2 of 3 Locals perform the Dragon Dance, a traditional Chinese performance staged during Chinese New Year celebrations and other festive occasions
Photo 3 of 3 Manila locals walking towards the largest Chinatown arch at the foot of Jones Bridge

Did You Know? Jones Bridge was originally designed by Filipino architect Juan M Arellano, best known for designing the Manila Metropolitan Theatre, Manila Central Post Office, Rizal Memorial Sports Complex, and the Legislative Building (now the National Museum of Fine Arts).

Tatler tells you more about this cultural heritage in this travel guide. Below is a list that takes you deeper into the streets.

In case you missed it: Cultural Wanderer's Guide 2023: The monuments of Bataan and the stories they tell

1. Binondo Church

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The Binondo Church is also known as the Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz
Above The Binondo Church is also known as the Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz

The Minor Basilica and National Shrine of San Lorenzo Ruiz or Binondo Church was founded by Dominican priests in 1596 as a gift to the Sangleys, or Chinese people who converted to Christianity. 

The church got its name from Filipino martyr saint, Lorenzo Ruiz, who was beatified in 1981 and canonised in 1987. According to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila, Ruiz served as an altar boy and clerk-sacristan in the church of Binondo. He was also a member of the Confraternity of the Most Holy Rosary, an international association of the Catholic faithful established. 

On July 23, 1992, Pope John Paul II granted Binondo Church the “minor basilica” title. This designation may be granted due to the place's architectural beauty, liturgical renown, or historical significance. As of this post, it remains the 10th minor basilica in the Philippines and the fourth in the Archdiocese of Manila.

More from Tatler: 7 awe-inspiring modern churches worldwide

Below are some of the liturgical services offered in Binondo Church:

  • Mass

    Monday to Saturday at 12.15pm and 5pm
    Sunday at 8.30am, 10am, 12.15am, and 5pm

  • Baptism

    Monday to Saturday at 10.30am
    Sunday at 11am (Communal)

  • Confession

    Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 11am to 12pm
    Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 3 to 4.30pm

2. El Hogar Filipino Building

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Parts of the El Hogar Filipino Building can be seen at the corner of Calle Juan Luna and Muelle dela Industría
Above 2024: Parts of the El Hogar Filipino Building can be seen at the corner of Calle Juan Luna and Muelle dela Industría
Tatler Asia
Parts of the El Hogar Filipino Building can be seen at the corner of Calle Juan Luna and Muelle dela Industría
Above 2024: Parts of the El Hogar Filipino Building can be seen at the corner of Calle Juan Luna and Muelle dela Industría

Built in 1911 by American civil engineer Ramon Irureta-Goyena and Francisco Perez Muñoz, the mesmerising El Hogar Filipino building served as a wedding gift to Margarita Zóbel de Ayala from Peruvian Count Antonio Melian. 

El Hogar Filipino, a Spanish phrase that translates to “The Philippine home”, is located along the streets of Juan Luna and Muelle Dela Industria. This four-storey-high building housed the Melian business empire, including the Filipinas Compañía de Seguros, the first Filipino-owned fire insurance company; Tondo de Beneficiencia; Casa de España; Casa de Pensiones; and financing cooperative Sociedad El Hogar Filipino.

See also: Film Heritage Building: A collective effort to safeguard and further Philippine cinema

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The old El Hogar Building (Photo; Arquitectura Manila)
Above The old El Hogar Building (Photo; Arquitectura Manila)

In February 2014, news reports revealed that the building was sold to Chinese-Filipino real estate developers The Ritz Premiere Corporation who allegedly planned to demolish the building and turn it into a condominium. 

The National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP) issued a cease and desist order and made an effort to acquire the property.

The planned purchase did not come to fruition as the NHCP and El Hogar's new owners could not agree on the amount. Today, El Hogar can only amuse you with its shattered remains. Its fate remains uncertain.  

Did you know? According to researchers from the University of Santo Tomas (UST) College of Architecture, Kapitan Tiago, a character from Jose Rizal's Noli Me Tangere, once lived on the same site where El Hogar stands today. 

3. Yuchengco Park (Escolta)

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Pasig river mirrors the ravaged shell of the Manila Post Office which was consumed by fire in May 2023
Above 2024: Pasig river mirrors the ravaged shell of the Manila Post Office that was consumed by fire in May 2023

Years have passed, yet the beaux-arts and art deco architecture of Escolta continue to decorate Manila with a nostalgic grandeur. As with every other cultural location in the Philippines, this humble street provides a piece of the past neatly tucked into the very modern skyscrapers of the city. 

Nestled along this street is the newly-opened Yuchengco Park which offers a scenic view of the Manila Central Post Office and Jones Bridge. A cultural hub called The Hub is also located inside the First United Building (see map below).

Tatler Tip: For those who love taking photographs, it is best to go around 3:00-4:00 p.m. when the Pasig river clearly mirrors the shell of the post office.

Related: The harrowing fate of the Central Post Office building and how it is rising from the ashes

4. Chinatown Arch

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Photo 1 of 2 The world’s largest Chinatown arch at the foot of Jones Bridge in Manila
Photo 2 of 2 The Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch in Binondo, Manila

The Manila Chinatown Arch, located in Plaza Moraga, Binondo, stands 63.8 ft high and is said to be the world’s largest Chinatown arch.

Inaugurated on June 23, 2015, the arch cost PhP 28 million to construct and was funded by China Energy Fund Committee. In a Rappler report, architect Saul Simon Tan described the Chinese arch as a “fusion of modern and traditional designs with three pagodas”.

Did you know? The arch is 3.8 feet taller than the Chinatown arch found in Washington, DC, which is only 60 feet and seven inches tall.

5. Plaza San Lorenzo

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Plaza San Lorenzo is located at the heart of Binondo, Manila
Above Plaza San Lorenzo is located at the heart of Binondo, Manila
Tatler Asia
Plaza San Lorenzo is located at the heart of Binondo, Manila
Above Plaza San Lorenzo is located at the heart of Binondo, Manila

Initially named after Spanish dramatist, poet, and playwright Calderón de la Barca, Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz is a major public square in the middle of Quintin Paredes Street (east) and Juan Luna Street (west). After the completion of Binondo Church in 1854, the mercantile activity in the plaza rapidly increased; however, this changed in the 1960s when most businesses shifted from Manila to Makati and Cubao, Quezon City. 

In 2005, the local government of Manila redeveloped Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz with the help of the Metrobank Foundation, which donated PHP 3 million for the rehabilitation. 

Today, the 1200 square metre plaza showcases park benches, royal palm trees, 42 promenade lampposts, and a statue of the first Filipino saint, Lorenzo Ruiz. 

See also: Binondo Food Trip 2020: Where To Get The Best Chinese Delicacies in Manila’s Old Chinatown

6. Toho Panciteria Antigua

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Toho Panciteria Antigua is the Philippines' oldest restaurant (Photo: Matromao/ Youtube)
Above Toho Panciteria Antigua is the Philippines' oldest restaurant (Photo: Matromao/ Youtube)

Eating in Toho Panciteria is a gastronomical and historical adventure in one. Touted as the “Philippines’ oldest restaurant”, this diner offers authentic Chinese cuisine, including kikiam, yang chao, lumpiang shanghai pork, miki bihon, and more. The origin of the bistro dates back to 1888 when Wong Tai Tang, one of five Chinese immigrant founders, took over the management when his friends returned to Guangdong. The restaurant has since been passed down through generations of the Wong family.

Some believe that Jose Rizal used to dine at Toho Panciteria when he was still a student at UST. Tatler has yet to confirm whether this theory is factual. 

The Department of Tourism, Culture and Arts of Manila, on the other hand, claims that Toho Panciteria served Andres Bonifacio, who used to drop by the restaurant for his pancit and asado before attending meetings with the Katipunan.  

In case you missed it: The best Chinese restaurants in the Tatler Dining Guide 2023

7. 19 19 Grand Cafe

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Photo 1 of 2 2024: The 19 19 Grand Cafe used to be the HSBC Building, a heritage jewel built in 1922
Photo 2 of 2 The old facade of 19 19 Grand Cafe (HSBC Building) (Photo: Inquirer.Net)

End your adventure with pastries and iced beverages from 19 19 Cafe. The diner used to be the old, abandoned building of Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC), the Philippines’ oldest foreign bank.

Established on November 11, 1875, the neoclassical structure located on Juan Luna Street was designed by Architect GH Hayward and built by contractor Oscar F. Campbell. The lower floors used to be the office of HSBC, while the upper floors were leased to Smith Bell & Co. Ltd. 

Among the dishes and drinks offered by the cafe are braised abalone, vegetable dumplings, truffle mushroom soup, Thai salad, sous vide duck breast with strawberry bourbon sauce, wagyu beef, and a wide selection of wine. 

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Credits

Photography  

Jove Moya

Images  

Toho Panciteria, Matromao (Youtube); HSBC building, Inquirer.Net; The old El Hogar Building, Arquitectura Manila