The monuments of Bataan and the stories they tell

April 9, 1942, shall always be remembered as the day that Bataan fell. Over 70,000 Filipino and American troops were taken as prisoners of war and forced to walk approximately 105 kilometres from Mariveles, Bataan to San Fernando, Pampanga, where they boarded a train to the concentration camps in Camp O’Donnell in Capas, Tarlac. The march started on April 10, 1942, in Mariveles and on April 11, 1942, in Bagac, lasting until April 17, 1942. The week-long ordeal led to thousands dying of fatigue, disease, dehydration, starvation or just plain shots to the head. Women didn’t get off easy as well. If they resisted the sexual advances of the Japanese soldiers, they would get their breasts cut off with bayonets.

As you visit the monument, you get a feeling of unease. While the surrounding area has been urbanised with fast food joints and a lively seaport, you get the sense that you’re stepping on hallowed ground. Standing stoutly in the middle of the small park is a statue of an M1 Garand with a helmet, reminding us of the bloodshed that occurred 81 years ago. A faded mural of the Philippine Flag adorns the wall, accompanied by two flag poles and the infamous ground zero marker for the march.

In case you missed it: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Tarlac, the ‘melting pot’ of the Philippines

As the Imperial Japanese Army pushed through Luzon, Filipino and American troops were forced to retreat to Mount Samat for a last stand. Possibly one of the bloodiest phases of the war, the mountain saw three months of non-stop gunfire and explosions. Today, a massive 95-metre cross—the second tallest cross in the world—towers over the horizon to remember the fallen. 

Standing at an elevation of 555 meters above sea level, the Shrine of Valor is made of steel and concrete with a marble finish and was designed by National Artist for Sculpture, Napoleon Abueva in collaboration with Maximo Vicente. Guests can take an elevator inside to the hands of the cross where you can have a full panoramic view of the landscape.

Situated at the back of Balanga Elementary School, the World War II Museum is more than just a building full of artefacts. It stands exactly where the Filipinos and Americans formally surrendered to the Japanese. Outside the museum is a monument for Major General Edward P. King Jr.’s decision to lay down their arms to prevent the further loss of lives. Inscribed on a plaque are his words, “No one surrendered but me. If there’s any blame, it’s mine. I ordered you to surrender. You did not do anything but take orders.” The school was built in 1876, making it one of the oldest educational institutions in the province, and later became a military base when the Japanese forces took over.

Also see: The harrowing fate of the Central Post Office building and how it is rising from the ashes

Today, the museum holds hundreds of World War II-era weapons, helmets, photographs, uniforms, medals, unheard accounts from survivors and plenty more. The museum’s keeper, Catherine Mejia, also holds lectures and provides educational videos to help people understand the events that took place.

Perhaps the most haunting structure you’ll ever visit is the torture chamber. While unassuming at first glance, you’ll quickly see a terrifying sign stating what it was used for during the war. Engraved atop the structure is the year 1932, possibly signifying that this was once a mausoleum repurposed to hold prisoners of war. While the door is shut, one could easily peer through the open window and see a heavily battered interior: a broken sink and stained walls under the darkness—imprints left by war crimes and neglect that send shivers down the spine of visitors.

Related: Exhibition in Fort Santiago, Intramuros Remembers World War II Tragedies

200 meters away from the starting point of the death march in Bagac, the Friendship Tower symbolises peace and restitution for the atrocities committed during the Second World War. Built by the Risshō Kōsei-Kai Group—an organisation of Buddhist laymen in Japan—on April 8, 1975, the monument reminds for Japan to never engage in war again. Below the tower rests a bell with an inscribed poem:

The Sound of the bell of the Friendship Tower
It shows the prayer for those
Who died in action

The Sound of the Bell
It expands our missionary minds
Hoping for Friendship and Peace

The Sound of the bell
May the mysterious melody
Establish the Eternal Peace on earth

-Rev. Nikkyō Niwano, President, Risshō Kōsei-Kai. April 8, 1975

Bataan’s story is one soaked in blood. We like to remember the men who fought as brave and heroic—to the point where they're seen as legends. But one must not erase their human aspects. They felt fear, uncertainty, and agony. They felt pain seemingly everlasting and unimaginable. They felt guilt for the lives they took. Forget the fight for glory—these people were fighting for their lives.

Despite our small victories and the atrocities committed against us, these monuments are a reminder of what war really is. It never changes.

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