The cultural wanderer’s guide to Bangkok, Thailand

Erawan Museum’s massive three-headed elephant statue will leave you speechless. It is, after all, the world’s first and biggest hand-carved sculpture. Standing 43.6m high (equivalent to a 14-storey building), the statue is considered a tourist attraction and a symbol of faith for believers of Thailand’s Theravada Buddhism (the underworld, the human world, and the heavens). 

According to Aryan legends, the elephant god Erawan, also known as Airavata or Airawana, has 33 heads. His primary duty is to serve as Indra’s (the god of rain and storms) mount in his travels to different locations to observe mankind. In his battles with demons, the elephant acts as Indra’s trusty steed.

This spot in Southeast Asia is relatively new. Its construction started in 1994 and opened to the public in 2003. 

For tourists, an audio guide in Thai, English, Chinese, Korean, and Russian is available at the entrance. The museum cannot accommodate people in sleeveless attire or above-the-knee length skirts or shorts.

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If you’re near Pathumwan junction, drop by Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). The building demands no entrance fees as it receives funding from the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA). Its funding channels include rental revenue in the artHUB zone, private organisation sponsorships, and other public donations.

While the conception of BACC transpired for over 16 years, its approval only came on August 19, 2009. The monumental building houses both local and international arts that celebrate creativity and foster cultural exchange, making it a vibrant hub for artists and visitors alike.

Four major considerations were used during the development of its design concept:

• To create a space conducive to flexible art arrangements.
• To create a building with references to Thai architecture.
• To have high spaces to accommodate works.
• To have galleries that make optimum use of natural but controlled natural light.
  

“Of major importance was the integration of the commercial area as a support facility to the museum. In our opinion to make the commercial area a completely separate entity, would not be commercially viable, since traditionally centre shopping centres are larger than that outlined in the design program. With proper management and a proper selection of shops related to art, both the gallery and the commercial area can be mutually supportive,” BACC said in its page. 

Related: Gallery hop around the metro for Art Fair PH 2024

During my visit, I chanced upon an exhibit called Photography Never Lies, a collection of the works of artists  Boris Eldagsen, Leslie Shang Zhefeng, Ioanna Sakellaraki, Manit Sriwanichpoom, Maria Mavropoulou, Miti Ruangkritya, Napasraphee Apaiwong, Patrik Budenz and Birte Zellentin, Piyatat Hemmatat, Pumipat Usapratumban, Robert Zhao Renhui, Sai,  Tanapol Kaewpring.

The exhibition features artworks that challenge the notion that photography is mere reflection of reality. The journey from a moment to a photograph is a complex interplay of ideas, myths, algorithms, and mechanisms that shape its creation. Selecting a particular photograph is a nuanced process, far from the simplicity many assume.

Coffee by the river—if the idea doesn’t entice you enough then maybe the artworks and spine-tingling coffee of Hong Sieng Kong will. Tucked in an alley at the Talat Noi neighbourhood, the charm of the place is the scenic and peaceful ambiance it offers every visitor. 

The gallery x café was founded by brothers Decha and Thongde Sae Bae on a 150-year-old plot of land owned by their mother Yenchit Saetang. The place boasts an impressive collection of antiques that guests can view anytime they please.

For those who want to capture the beautiful lights along Chao Phraya River, it is best to come at around 5pm to 6pm, just before sunset.

Author’s note: Talat Noi or Talakka is a historic Chinese community along Chao Phraya River. A century ago, the place used to be a trading hub with exquisite Chinese architecture.

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Located just beside Hong Sieng Kong, Vanich House is another art café that features vintage wooden buildings where guests can choose to dine alone or meet new friends, thanks to its transparent interior space. 

With chairs and tables laid out in a way that allows you to get to know other diners, Vanich House offers a nurturing atmosphere that fosters connection and conversation.

Never miss out on any opportunity to go to Khlong Bang Luang. Located at Soi Phet Kasem, Kuhha Sawan sub-district, the area used to be the residence of Thailand’s government officials, nobility, and governors. As such, the locals called it Khlong Bang Kha Luang or “canal of nobles”. 

The community's identity is preserved through its traditional wooden row houses, which line both sides of the road, selling a variety of products to visitors who come to appreciate the waterfront. 

Among the attractions you shouldn’t miss along this area is the Artists’ House, a Manila-style wooden cafe that offers activities such as pottery, jewellery-making, sketching, flower arrangements, and tarot reading. 

Jim Thompson Art Center is the place to be if you want to discover more about the city’s art and culture. The compound which is situated in the same place as Jim Thompson House Museum organises exhibitions, educational programs, and produces publications in collaboration with international cultural institutions.

Named after American businessman and architect James Harrison Wilson Thompson, the museum features a Thai teakwood house where guests can see his wide collection of antiques.

When visiting the main house, there will be a tour guide that is expert in Thai, English, French, Chinese, and Japanese. 

Bangkok will never run out of places that provide scenic views. Just along the pier stands Before Sunset café where you can grab drinks and ice cream while gazing at the beautiful Wat Arun Temple across it.

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The Museum of Contemporary Art Bangkok (MOCA) was built for locals and tourists to appreciate the works of art collected over the past 30 years by Boonchai Bencharongkul. The museum displays pieces inspired by traditional Thai modes of expression and art that have been influenced by Western techniques. 

Around the 200,000sqm well-lit area, visitors can see at least 800 pieces from Bencharongkul’s private collection. These artworks serve as a powerful reflection of Thai creativity, beliefs, and thought processes.

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