The cultural wanderer’s guide to Baguio, Benguet

Famous for its towering spires and magnificent facade, the Our Lady of Atonement Metropolitan Cathedral—also called the Baguio Cathedral—is the biggest church in the city. Accessible through a 104-step staircase, the cathedral sits atop a hill overlooking the city. 

A little history: On these grounds were laid to rest the remains of the victims of the carpet bombing of Baguio on March 15, 1945.

Situated on the side of the mountain, the BenCab Museum boasts wondrous views alongside mesmerising artwork by National Artist for Visual Arts Benedicto Cabrera and other notable and up-and-coming contemporary artists. Every artistic medium, from sculptures and photographs to paintings and installations, can be viewed here.

Also see: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Taal, Batangas

Shortly after the Spanish-American war, Camp John Hay was a rest and recreation centre exclusively for the US Military. During World War II, Japanese forces bombed the area and captured it on December 27, 1941. For several months,  the Japanese forces used as a concentration camp for American, British, and Filipino soldiers. Today, it is a resort surrounded by pine trees, restaurants, and hiking trails. It’s common to find some visitors laying down a blanket and having a picnic on the hills or even a few campers while you’re trekking. For most, Camp John Hay is what gives Baguio its identity. 

While you’re here: Make sure you try out Choco-late de Batirol. Their hot chocolate perfectly complements the cold temperatures in the camp.

Considered one of the most haunted places in the Philippines, the Heritage Hill and Nature Park Garden houses the ruins of the Diplomat Hotel—a place plagued with brutal history. Originally built as a retreat house for Dominican friars, it was converted into a refugee centre during World War II. When the Japanese occupied the building, priests, nuns, and refugees were tortured and killed. After the Americans sieged the camp, any remaining Japanese soldiers inside committed mass suicide to prevent capture. In the 1970s, the building was transformed into a fanciful lodge, becoming the Diplomat Hotel. A spiritualist healer named Tony Agpaoa managed the hotel, and when he died of a heart attack in 1982, the facility shut down and had been abandoned since. Rumours of beheaded astral figures roaming its halls and ghastly wailing were claimed by locals and tourists, making the Diplomat Hotel a go-to for many paranormal thrill seekers.

It is now known as Heritage Hill and Nature Park, focusing on the lush greenery and awe-inspiring views. While the haunting stories continue circulating, the old Diplomat Hotel has a second chance to leave its storied past behind.

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Arguably the most iconic place in Baguio City, Session Road lies at the heart of the central business district and hosts plenty of restaurants and stores. With Burnham Park and the night market, just an arrow shot away, you won’t even notice you’ve completed your daily step goal.

It’s best to visit at night when the atmosphere takes over. It's hard to leave empty-handed, from street performers and good eats to little knick-knacks. Tourists and locals alike go here to take photos or to people-watch.

Tatler Tip: When you visit Session Road, make sure you’re on foot. Besides the difficult parking situation, you won’t get the full experience without walking.

A landmark built to remember what was once lost, the Igorot Stone Kingdom, is the masterwork of Pio G Velasco when a white carabao appeared before him. As a symbol of good luck, Velasco took it as a sign to begin the construction of the kingdom he had always seen in his dreams. Today, it’s a testament to the masterful craftsmanship and stoneworking of the Igorot people. 

Also see: The cultural wanderer's guide to Bacolod, the 'city of smiles'

Opened in 2014 by National Artist for Film Kidlat Tahimik (real name Eric de Guia), Ili-Likha Artist Village is what the name precisely implies—a place where artists thrive. Situated on Assumption Road, next to Session Road, the De Guia family built the entire place around a tree, housing many hole-in-the-wall style restaurants. Visitors can also buy merchandise from local artisans and enjoy gigs, performances, and special screenings here.

Tatler Tip: While the ambience is best when it’s already dark, it’s best to visit at sunset to beat the dinner rush.

A month-long flower festival held in February, the Panagbenga Festival is the most anticipated cultural event in the city. From street dance competitions and vibrant costumes to unique float parades and art exhibits, Baguio showcases the distinctive traditions of the Cordillera region.

The festival is a tribute to the city’s flowers and a reminder of resiliency and strength from the devastating earthquake in 1990.

Things to know: Those looking to catch the festival should consider visiting Baguio a few days before the festivities start. Notable places to visit include Burnham Park and Session Road.

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