The cultural wanderer’s guide to Bohol, the ʻJewel of the Philippinesʼ

After a thirty-minute drive from the top of a hill, I made my way to see the Philippine Tarsier—a small primate endemic to the country. It’s a common misconception that these animals can only be seen in Bohol, but they can also be found on the islands of Samar, Leyte, and some parts of Mindanao.

Tarsiers are nocturnal creatures, so you’ll often see them sleeping underneath a leaf when you visit. There are plenty of chances to get a picture with them and if you’re lucky, catch a few while they’re awake. Flash photography, loud noises, and touching are strictly prohibited as they can cause great stress to the animal. There is a guided trail to follow and it shouldn’t take longer than 20 minutes to complete. At the end, a souvenir shop can be found containing heaps of memorabilia. I suggest getting your souvenirs from here.

Also read: Beyond the beaches: Christina Garcia Frasco on broadening the horizons of Philippine tourism

Making my way to lunch at the Loboc River Cruise, we passed through the Bilar Man-made Forest—a dense jungle made up of white and red mahogany trees. According to my tour guide, it was part of a reforestation project over 50 years ago. While cruising through the forest, I lowered my window and immediately noticed the temperature drop. Many tourists would stop by the side to take photos and cars would rarely pass, allowing you to take serene pictures in the middle of the road.

For lunch, I took to Loboc for the Floating Restaurant along the Loboc River. Here I enjoyed the company of strangers while sampling the local cuisine. With a welcoming atmosphere and great weather, this experience gives you a breather from your busy travels. Oftentimes, passing ships or locals swimming in the river would wave ‘hello’ to you as you make your way down the stream. Perhaps the highlight of the cruise would be the stops it would take to showcase the lively Loboc Children’s Choir. From singing to dancing Tinikling, it was a joy seeing them perform as I enjoyed my dessert. Sometimes they’d even invite tourists to board their vessel to learn the traditional Filipino dance for themselves.

Upon getting back on the road, it was time to visit the Philippines’ second-oldest stone church. The Baclayon Church dates back to November 17, 1596, by Jesuit priests Juan De Torres and Gabriel Sanchez—making it the first mission of Christianity in Bohol. It is declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum of the Philippines and a National Historic Landmark by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines. On the side, visitors can find a small museum displaying religious artefacts from the 16th century.

Tatler trivia: The church sustained major damage during a 7.2 magnitude earthquake in 2013 and was rebuilt by the National Museum of the Philippines from 2014 to 2018.

Wrapping up the countryside tour is another great historical moment for Bohol—The Blood Compact, known locally as Sanduguan. While the shrine used to be situated at the exact spot where Miguel Lopez de Legaspi and Rajah Sikatuna made their pact, it has since been moved in 2023 down the road where the recently constructed Tagbilaran Friendship Park now stands. The monument honours the first international treaty between the Philippines and Spain, signifying peace and friendship. 

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