Monkies lurk around the entrance of the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Cover Monkies lurk around the entrance of the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Monkies lurk around the entrance of the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

Kuala Lumpur is proud but doesn’t impose. Its buildings dwarf those of any other city in Southeast Asia and its well-preserved natural wonders, art hubs, and eateries have stories you can’t ignore

There is nothing I value more than lived experiences. Had it not been for my trip to Malaysia, I would have missed learning about the crows that lurk the city, the clubs that feel vibrant even on weeknights, and how the colossal Merdeka 118 seems to follow you wherever you go due to its height. While books and the internet provide the bigger picture, the finer details are best grasped through personal exploration.

The trip from the airport to the city centre takes approximately an hour and 30 minutes, depending on your arrival time. If, like me, you arrive late at night, Kuala Lumpur will welcome you with a dazzling array of lights, while in the morning, the silhouettes of its towering skyscrapers will encourage you to explore the scenery through your camera.

The city strikes me as a place that offers a seamless blend of both concrete and natural elements without overwhelming either one.

In case you missed it: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Bangkok, Thailand

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Merdeka 118 in Kuala Lumpur is the tallest building in Southeast Asia. Because of its height, its peak can be seen in several parts of the city (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Merdeka 118 in Kuala Lumpur is the tallest building in Southeast Asia. Because of its height, its peak can be seen in several parts of the city (Photo: Jove Moya)
Merdeka 118 in Kuala Lumpur is the tallest building in Southeast Asia. Because of its height, its peak can be seen in several parts of the city (Photo: Jove Moya)

Its locals—a mix of Malays, Chinese, and Indians—are quite hospitable. Whether you meet them as a local cab driver or a merchant down Chinatown in Petaling Street, they are most happy to engage and tell you about the less-touristy spots around. 

In this article, Tatler tells you all about the places you can see on your next trip!

Read also: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Kyoto, Japan

REXKL

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One of many novelty stores inside REXKL in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above One of many novelty stores inside REXKL in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
One of many novelty stores inside REXKL in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

At the heart of Kuala Lumpur lies REXKL, a theatre-turned-art hub and café erected in 1947. Designed by architect James Robert Vethavanam and initially operated by the Shaw Brothers (a film production company in Hong Kong), the cinema caught fire for the first time in 1972. It was rebuilt by Golden Communications (now Golden Screen Cinemas) in 1976. 

In 1993, following the release of Steven Spielberg’s massive blockbuster Jurassic Park, REX Theatre became the first cinema in the country to have a digital sound processor (DTS) system. 

More from Tatler: 7 heritage-inspired boutique stays in Penang, Malaysia

The REX Theatre maintained its post as one of the most popular and larger cinemas of its time; however, in 2002, the building was once again destroyed by fire and closed down for good. In 2007, it was converted into a backpackers’ hostel, but fire swallowed the building anew.

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A mural just beside the REXKL building (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above A mural just beside the REXKL building (Photo: Jove Moya)
A mural just beside the REXKL building (Photo: Jove Moya)

In 2018, a group of creative entrepreneurs led by Shin Tseng and Shin Chang revived the 60,000 sq ft building and turned it into an art and culture centre dubbed REXKL. 

Community building and art shows flourished in the area since. In 2023, it was able to host Rexperience, an immersive art gallery spanning 8,000 sq ft of the main hall. 

Batu Caves

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The entrance to Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Getty Images)
Above The entrance to Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Getty Images)
The entrance to Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Getty Images)

Batu Caves is also a tourist favourite. Located in the northern part of Kuala Lumpur, the cave complex is home to the 43-metre-high statue of Murugan, the chief deity of the ancient Tamils of South India.

Historians believe that the limestone cave, which can be reached by climbing 272 steps, is already around 400 million years old.

Mostly untouched until the 1860s, the Batu Caves produced guano (the accumulated excrement of birds and bats), which Chinese settlers began excavating to fertilise their crops during the colonial era.

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Photo 1 of 2 Batu Caves in the northern part of Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Jove Moya)
Photo 2 of 2 Monkeys lurk around the entrance of the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Batu Caves in the northern part of Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Jove Moya)
Monkies lurk around the entrance of the Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

Long-tailed macaques can be seen roaming the premises of the cave. Previously, there were reports of these animals snatching belongings from devotees, but they were quite tame during my visit.

Batu Caves is also home to more than 20 species of bats and 269 types of plants. Among the animals and insects you can see here are trapdoor spiders, bent-toed geckos, Malayan-horned frogs, blue-tongued skinks, and more.

For those seeking an extra adventure, this spot in Kuala Lumpur offers at least 160 rock climbing routes. It features three walls: Damai, Nanyang, and Nyamuk, each with varying levels of difficulty.

See more: 5 Local travel destinations for the frugal backpacker 2024

Kwai Chai Hong

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Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

If you want snacks and see interactive murals in the city, consider taking a detour at Kwai Chai Hong. This hidden alleyway between Lorong Panggung and Jalan Petaling in Chinatown was neglected until its restoration in 2018.

The passion project, led by five local entrepreneurs Ho Yung Wee, Coco Lew, Terence Liew, Javier Chor, and Zeen Chang, cost over RM1.5 million (around PhP1 billion).

The name Kwai Chai Hong translates to “Little Demon Alley.” It is believed to reference the naughty children who used to live on the street. Alternatively, some locals say that the alley was a gathering spot for drunkards and gangs known as kwai chai.

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Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
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Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Kwai Chai Hong in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

Old-school restaurants, Instagram-worthy street art, and more await visitors of Kwai Chai Hong. Those who have more time to spare can learn more about the artists through QR codes scattered around the area.

When scanned, these codes lead you to a site that plays interactive clips or soundtracks.

Related: Inside Asia’s Spookiest Haunted Buildings

The Zhongshan Building

Don’t be deceived by its small size. Inside the Zhongshan Building, there’s much more than meets the eye. Whether you’re there to discover more about the local art scene of Kuala Lumpur or to pick up unique items to share with friends and family back home, this hub offers a mix of coffee shops, galleries, and creative spaces.

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The entrance to the Zhongshan Building in Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above The entrance to the Zhongshan Building in Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Jove Moya)
The entrance to the Zhongshan Building in Kuala Lumpur (Photo: Jove Moya)

The building used to be a family-owned butchery and residential space known only to locals who reside near the area. Initially, it only hosted the Selangor Zhongshan Association and smaller merchants before turning into a hostel for overseas workers in the early 2000s.

In 2021, Rob Tan, who inherited the building from his late grandmother, along with art consultants Liza Ho and Snow Ng, refurbished the space after receiving a grant from Think City.

Read more: The Zhongshan Building and Its Vibrant, Diverse Creatives

Merdeka Square

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The Sultan Abdul Samad Building in Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia  originally housed the offices of the British colonial administration (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above The Sultan Abdul Samad Building in Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia originally housed the offices of the British colonial administration (Photo: Jove Moya)
The Sultan Abdul Samad Building in Merdeka Square, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia  originally housed the offices of the British colonial administration (Photo: Jove Moya)

Merdeka Square is where you can find notable buildings and tourist attractions such as the Sultan Abdul Samad building, the National Textile Museum, the Kuala Lumpur City Gallery, and the historic St Mary’s Cathedral.

This place is where the Union Flag was lowered and the Malaysian flag was raised for the first time on August 31, 1957. Towering at a height of 95 meters, the flagpole in Merdeka Square displays the tallest Malaysian flag in the world.

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Merdeka Square in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Merdeka Square in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
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Kuala Lumpur City Gallery in Merdeka Square was designed by A. C. Norman, government architect of the Federated Malay States (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Kuala Lumpur City Gallery in Merdeka Square was designed by A. C. Norman, government architect of the Federated Malay States (Photo: Jove Moya)
Merdeka Square in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Kuala Lumpur City Gallery in Merdeka Square was designed by A. C. Norman, government architect of the Federated Malay States (Photo: Jove Moya)

The area notably features a combination of Moorish and Islamic architectural elements. A.C. Norman, who initially aimed to represent Malaysian culture in his design, structured the Sultan Abdul Samad Building with intricate details and elegant arches. 

In case you missed it: The cultural wanderer’s guide to Cebu

Thean Hou Temple

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Thean Hou Temple along Jalan Klang Lama on the southwest side of Kuala Lumpur is considered as one of the largest and oldest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Thean Hou Temple along Jalan Klang Lama on the southwest side of Kuala Lumpur is considered as one of the largest and oldest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Thean Hou Temple along Jalan Klang Lama on the southwest side of Kuala Lumpur is considered as one of the largest and oldest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia (Photo: Jove Moya)

Thean Hou Temple along Jalan Klang Lama on the southwest side of Kuala Lumpur will generously grace your eyes with a contrast of colours. Considered one of the largest and oldest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia, this quaint architectural wonder was completed in 1987 and officially opened to the public in 1989.

Perched on a hill, Thean Hou Temple is overseen by the Hainanese community, who are descendants of sea-faring fishermen from Hainan, China.

Given the fishing background of the Hainanese, it’s not surprising that the temple honours the deity Tian Hou Niang Niang, or the Chinese sea goddess Mazu.

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Thean Hou Temple (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Thean Hou Temple (Photo: Jove Moya)
Thean Hou Temple (Photo: Jove Moya)

According to legend, Mazu was born as Lin Mo Niang during the reign of the warlord Liu Congxiao in the Min Kingdom. She earned the nickname Mo Niang meaning silent one, because she did not cry at birth.

From a young age, Lin Mo Niang exhibited unique qualities and was particularly devoted to the Buddhist deity Guanyin. Following Guanyin's example, she chose to remain unmarried, a decision that was frowned upon duirng her time.

At the age of 28, she utilised her spiritual powers to save her brothers from being lost at sea. Upon her death, she was deified and became the benefactor and patron goddess of sailors across China, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Hong Kong, and Taiwan.

Bukit Bintang

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Bukit Bintang in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Above Bukit Bintang in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)
Bukit Bintang in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (Photo: Jove Moya)

Souvenirs, authentic Malay, Indian, and Chinese cuisine, bars, and whatnot await you at the ever-busy Bukit Bintang.

Regarded as the main shopping and entertainment district of Kuala Lumpur, the area features a wide range of modern hangout spots where you can buy luxury labels.

Among the most popular shopping locations in the area are Pavilion KL, Fahrenheit 88, Starhill Gallery, Sungei Wang Plaza, and Berjaya Times Square.

For those looking to cap off their trip with sweeping nighttime views of the city, Bukit Bintang is one of the stops of the double-decker Hop On Hop Off bus.

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Jove Moya
Senior Feature Writer, Tatler Philippines
Tatler Asia

Jove holds a degree in Journalism and is currently pursuing graduate studies in Philosophy at the University of the Philippines–Diliman. She has flair for in-depth, interview-driven stories that explore politics and culture, shaped by her background in national broadsheets. 

When she’s not on assignment, Jove spends her days painting, sipping lemonade, and walking her dog, Jupiter. She can often be seen in Escolta with a film camera in hand, browsing novelty shops in search of rare memorabilia. For leads, reach her at Jove@tatlerphilippines.com.