The cultural wanderer’s guide to Istanbul

We were first taken to Çamlıca Tepesi, a hill that overlooked the entirety of Istanbul. From here, you have a virtually unobstructed view of the Bosphorus Strait, a critically important waterway that bisects the city between Asia and Europe. Three bridges connect these two halves: the Bosphorus Bridge, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, and the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge.

If you look hard enough, you can even spot the dome and minarets of the Hagia Sophia. Just as important were the large number of cats and dogs, and I would quickly learn that they were a frequent sight around the entire city.

When asked why the city had so many flags that were visible all throughout, Al laughed and replied, “We just like flags!”

Built in 1865, Beylerbeyi Palace was once a summer residence for the ruling sultans. The interiors seemed trapped in time; the fountains, bathrooms, and bedchambers of that era were impeccably preserved, giving you an insight into how they lived. 

However, the available walking space inside is severely limited, and the single-file line can quickly deteriorate into Philippine-style traffic. So if you’re part of a group, prepare to move fast. Though photography was forbidden inside the palace itself, no such restriction applied to the garden outside. It is populated by multiple sculptures of various animals, most notably tigers—gifts from the French to the sultan.

Tatler trivia: Many of the city’s old palaces and royal residences have been converted into museums, schools, or hotels.

A nice segue from our journeys aboveground, the Basilica Cistern is an impressive and mystifying sight to behold. It was once used to store water for the city, though today, it is kept shallow to allow entry.

The elevated steel bridge takes you on a winding path through the cistern in near-complete darkness, illuminated only periodically by multicoloured lights, so use that opportunity to snap a photo! Remember to cover your head or wear your hood; water droplets sometimes fall from above.

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Our trip to the Blue Mosque fell on a Friday, a day considered important in Islam. There were extended prayer times and Al informed us that we only had a short window—about an hour—to get inside. We fell in line by 2 in the afternoon, though it took us thirty minutes of standing in line to make it inside. Near the entrance, we were instructed to take off our shoes, while women were told to cover their heads with their scarves or coat hoods. If you have neither, you will be lent a blue cloth.

The massive structure held within it a certain vastness I could not properly describe; looking up, it felt as though I was staring into the heavens themselves. The countless lamps and chandeliers gave the impression of stars. Intricate inscriptions of the Quran and vibrant blue Iznik tiles—from which the Blue Mosque derives its name—are inlaid magnificently on the walls and ceilings. As I stood in the sectioned-off area designated for tourists, I noticed a father and his two sons praying on the opposite side—a reminder of this place’s solemnity.

A short walk away and in between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia lies the Hippodrome. Initially a recreational space commissioned by Emperor Septimus Severus, it is now a town square. It houses three monuments: The Walled Obelisk, erected by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus; the Serpent Column, taken from the Temple of Apollo; and the Obelisk of Thutmose III, which was brought in from Egypt.

Today, the Hippodrome is officially called Sultanahmet Square.

Three sites immediately came to mind when I learned I would be going to Istanbul: Pamukkale, the Walls of Constantinople, and the Hagia Sophia.

Originally a church built in time of Justinian the Great, the Hagia Sophia was converted into a mosque when Mehmed II captured the city. Such was its influence that it served as architectural inspiration for the Ottomans for centuries. Its designation as a mosque lasted for centuries until it was turned into a museum in 1935. In 2020, it became a mosque once more.

Even from afar, its majesty is undeniable. The throngs of tourists flocking to enter this historic structure is a testament to its impact across cultures and throughout the ages.

“Make sure you take note of the numbered gates,” Al warned, “or you will get lost inside. I have gotten lost before.”

I was never one to take warnings lightly, but I only saw the reality of his words as we approached the entrance of the Grand Bazaar. This colossal market is made up of dozens of covered streets and some 4,000 shops. Several blocks sprawling outward from the bazaar are likewise filled with peddlers and shopowners. Many of them will wave and invite you to examine your wares, and some will even try their hand at guessing what country you come from. With jewellery stores, butchers, woodcarvers, and several souvenir shops, it’s not a bad place to do some shopping.

Heed Al’s warning and stick to one line to easily find your way back to the exits.

If you have the time, drop by the nearby Suleymaniye Mosque. It houses the Mausoleum of Suleiman the Magnificent, who ruled the Ottoman Empire at the height of its power from 1520-1566.

Mehmed II built this palace to serve as the main residence of the sultans. Today, its doors are open as a museum. Most of the walking is done inside the dozens of rooms and exhibits through narrow passageways. We passed through many of the living quarters, a peek into how the palace’s workers and inhabitants ate, lived, and worked.

Perhaps most interesting of all was its collection of artefacts, gems, and arms and armour from the Ottoman Empire. Several relics attributed to the prophet Muhammad, such as his footprints, fallen teeth, and weapons, were proudly displayed in dozens of exhibits. Some of the items definitely made me curious, such as a large wooden staff that supposedly belonged Moses, or a sword that David used to behead the Goliath. The 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond is also housed within the extensive gem and jewellery collection.

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Near our hotel lies Taksim Square, a famous nightlife and shopping destination with the recently-built Taksim Mosque nearby. The main attraction is a long shopping street, filled with family-owned eateries, shops, cafes, and international fast food chains. The brick roads give way to the tracks of the old city tram, which still operate to this day. If one were to pause and stand still, one would be able to closely watch workers hauling cargo from one street to the next, tourists with their hands full squeezing their way through the crowd, and locals going about their daily lives. 

It’s an excellent place to buy souvenirs and gifts for your loved ones back home. Make sure to drop by the Hafiz Mustafa store, which sells sweet favourites such as Turkish delights and Baklava cakes.

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