Melbourne-based Filipino chef Ross Magnaye (Photo: Tsveti and Kali)
Cover Melbourne-based Filipino chef Ross Magnaye (Photo: Tsveti and Kali)

Chef Ross Magnaye, whose Modern Australian-Filipino restaurant Serai just nabbed Restaurant of the Year by TimeOut Melbourne, speaks to Tatler about his favourite restaurants and bars in the Philippines

Growing up, Ross Magnaye always knew he wanted to be a chef. As is Filipino tradition, his childhood centred around food and family, with every gathering a delicious feast. When Magnaye left the Philippines for the land Down Under at 15 years old, his ambitions only grew.

After pursuing his culinary studies at Melbourne’s William Angliss Institute, Magnaye wasted no time diving into the restaurant industry. His thirst for experience led him to work at various eateries around town, from the Italian Society Restaurant to the pastry studio Burch and Purchese, and soon took him to Brazil and Thailand to work at D.O.M. and Aziamendi. Emboldened with Michelin-star training and a global perspective, Magnaye returned to Melbourne and helmed Rice Paper Sister as its head chef. It was at this lauded Southeast Asian restaurant, tucked within the famed Hardware Lane, that he would introduce Melburnians to the wonders of Filpino cuisine, one kamayan banquet at a time.

See also: How Pogiboy’s Iconic Tocino Burger Landed the Front Page of Food & Wine Magazine

Magnaye’s efforts did not go unnoticed. In 2017, Magnaye flew to the Philippines and took over the Toyo Eatery kitchen for a one-night-only event. Back in his own restaurant, he’s held numerous events with other fellow Filipino culinarians, like US-based chef Yana Gilbuena of the Salo Series. Since leaving Rice Paper Sister in 2020, Magnaye has appeared on Asia Unplated, a cooking series by Masterchef Australia 2017 winner Diana Chan; collaborated with other Filipino chefs for themed dinners including a Jollibee-inspired takeover at Chibog with chef John Rivera; and most recently, ran private dinners at Supper Club Sofia in Bulgaria.

His much-awaited return to Melbourne did not disappoint. In May earlier this year, Magnaye finally opened the doors to his modern Australian-Filipino restaurant, Serai—a first for the CBD. Tucked away in a graffiti-laden laneway off Little Bourke Street, the 50-seater restaurant focuses on “Filipino dishes reimagined and cooked over a wood-fired grill, fun cocktails, and an all-natural wine list,” shared Magnaye. Think kangaroo kilinaw, wagyu dinuguan on toast, grilled prawns with spicy longganisa butter, or their take on lechon with smoked pineapple palapa and delectable pork-rum jus. “It’s a marriage of Australian produce with Filipino flavours and techniques cooked over the woodfire,” he explains. “Very sexy, very Serai.”

See also: Meet Serai: A Modern Australian-Filipino Restaurant in Melbourne, Australia

Less than six months since its opening, Serai has become the talk of the town, a watering hole for the veritable who’s who of Melbourne’s discerning gourmands—so much so that it has been named restaurant of the year 2022 by TimeOut Melbourne Food & Drink Awards, and even took home the critics’ choice award for best casual dining restaurant this October.

While Magnaye keeps his hands busy at Serai (not to mention some exciting collaborations beyond the restaurant), find out what and where he looks forward to eating when he returns to the Philippines.

See also: Kasama Filipino Restaurant in Chicago Wins a Michelin Star

Tatler Asia
Inihaw na sugpo from Hapag (Photo: Instagram / @hapag.mnl)
Above Inihaw na sugpo from Hapag (Photo: Instagram / @hapag.mnl)
Tatler Asia
Inihaw na sugpo from Hapag (Photo: Instagram / @hapag.mnl)
Above Inihaw na sugpo from Hapag (Photo: Instagram / @hapag.mnl)

What do you miss most on the food/drink front when you are away from the Philippines or haven’t been back for a while?  

What I really miss is going to the public markets and just eating simple street food or local dishes like balbacua. It’s normally the setting or where I eat the food [that I miss the most]. For example, there’s nothing better than eating grilled fish on the beach in the Southern parts of the Philippines like the Samal islands. I think it’s more about the location for me than it is about the actual food, but of course, the food has to be great!

What is the first dish you want to eat when you return, and where do you go for it?

What I would love to eat when I return is anything made my grandma, Carol. She makes the best callos and also the best thermidor I’ve ever had in my life. I’m also looking forward to my uncle RJ’s famous goat caldereta. 

Do you have a favourite restaurant in the Philippines? For fine dining and for more casual experiences?

For fine dining, I love Toyo Eatery, which is run by chef Jordy Navarra. I have done an event with him there, and I think the way he pushes the envelope for Filipino food is amazing. He is super talented and such a great guy. Hapag is one of the new restaurants I want to go check out. In terms of casual restaurants, I think Sarsa by chef JP Anglo is very good!

See also: The Culinary Capitals of the Philippines: Chef JP Anglo’s Guide to Negros Occidental

Tatler Asia
A cocktail from The Curator (Photo: Instagram / @thecurator_)
Above A cocktail from The Curator (Photo: Instagram / @thecurator_)

If you have visitors/guests with you, where do you go to give them a real taste of the Philippines?

I have family in Manila and Cebu, but most of my family lives in Davao City. I would love to show people the Southern parts of the Philippines because it’s not as commercialised or touristy. I’d take visitors to Davao and the Samal islands to show them around, take them to a beach in Samal, and let them experience a proper boodle fight on the beach. I think it doesn’t get more Filipino than that: a lot of grilled seafood, maybe some lechon, and lots of coconut and alcohol!

Where do you like to meet up with old friends for food/drinks?

If I were back home in the Philippines, I’d spend a lot of time with family and friends. Normally, I'd hang out in Davao City, and most of the time I actually don’t remember the bars I go to. I also spend a lot of time on the beaches, so it’s where I would hang out with old friends for food and drinks.

Do you have a favourite bar and/or café in the Philippines?

The Curator is a sensational bar in the Philippines and I think it’s a definite go-to if you want to have a drink—so many good cocktails, and the flavours are amazing. Then again, I'd be happy to drink Red Horse beer in a sari-sari store around the corner with some pulutan (haha). Café-wise, I really love Wildflour in Manila.

See also: A Beer-Lover’s Bucket List: 7 Must-Visit Brewpubs in the Philippines

Tatler Asia
Lugao and tokwa't baboy from Davao Dencia's (Photo: Instagram / @davaodencias_official)
Above Lugao and tokwa't baboy from Davao Dencia's (Photo: Instagram / @davaodencias_official)

Any other must-visit food/drink spots when you are back?

When I’m in the Philippines, I definitely love going to Jollibee. Chicken joy with rice, extra rice, and gravy is my go-to. There’s nothing better. I also love this place called Dencia’s in Davao which specialises in arroz caldo and tokwat baboy—simply amazing.

Do you take any food or treats back home with you from the Philippines?

Yes, I do. My grandma Carol makes the best bagoong and preserved fish roe. The bagoong is best with kare kare, and the roe is best paired with grilled fish and meats. I also love to bring back rosquillos, which is a Filipino cookie. One of my favourites!

Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home where you live?

Here in Melbourne, if I want to eat authentic Filipino dishes I’d go to my parents’ house. In my opinion, my mum Riza makes the best adobo in the world, and my dad makes the best kinilaw and dinengdeng. I also love going to Happy Hut, which is a small eatery with a Filipino store in it.

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