Promoting Filipino cuisine is something Cunanan, 39, has long been advocating. In 2015, his restaurant Bad Saint, a 24-seater in Columbia Heights in Washington, had people queuing for hours to taste his tuna kinilaw (ceviche) with avocado and chilis as well as okoy (fried patty) made of freshwater shrimps and sweet potato. It drew so much hype and deserved attention that it was named the number two best restaurant in America by Bon Appétit. It even landed on the culinary magazine’s cover months later.

In 2019, he finally bagged the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic accolade at the James Beard Awards after being nominated for three years in a row. He is the first Filipino to receive such an elusive citation for Filipino food.

Dungca was Cunanan’s right-hand in Bad Saint. He moved to DC with the desire to learn and cook his home country’s cuisine (his family hails from San Fernando, Pampanga). “I did my research, and at that time, [Tom] was getting ready to open up his restaurant, so I kept in touch with him, and he brought me on to be his opening sous chef. I had such an amazing time working with him because I felt like we were trailblazing a cuisine that is new, and we were proud of the food that we were cooking.”

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After five years, Cunanan left the restaurant he helped put up to explore other opportunities. “It felt like it was time to venture out and do my own thing,” he said. Dungca left a couple of years before him, but they found themselves working together once more during the pandemic to settle what felt like unfinished business.

Arturo Mei of The Block DC food hall, whom Cunanan met through his brother Eugene, approached the chef to ask if he wanted to partner up for a restaurant concept in his space. It made for the next logical career step and something to keep him busy while grieving for his sibling’s sudden unfortunate passing.

“At first, we thought of doing a Chinese clay pot idea, but we found out later that it wasn’t sustainable during the pandemic. So, we turned it down and decided to do a Filipino fast casual concept,” he recalled. “DC never had a Jollibee, so it felt like the perfect time to do it since it was non-existent and inaccessible.” They brought Dungca into the picture and brainstormed the branding, menu and name. Apart from being familiar, playful and catchy, Pogiboy is a nod to Cunanan’s childhood days when his aunts and uncles would call him by that alias. “It just sounded fitting,” he commented.

See also: Now Open: Serai, A Modern Australian-Filipino Restaurant in Melbourne

Beef brisket tapa, smoked pork belly tocino, brown butter bibingka with salted egg—their menu reads like gourmet fast food. And since talented and reputable chefs are behind the concept, you can expect components done from scratch, not mixes and powders like they use in big chains.

Of the lot, their rice bowls and burgers lured the people to their shop, outselling even usual favourites like their rotisserie chickens. And so, it was only right and fair that their signature burger beat the rest for the coveted cover.

All their menu items were born out of constant brainstorming, most often done during late nights over long conversations about whatever they love to eat. They would test them out, and those that passed the test were further refined and included in the roster, while those that didn’t were charged to experience. “We use each other as inspiration for our next creation. I think they stem from our brotherly relationship, which makes it even better because two heads are always better than one,” said Dungca.

See also: Filipino Restaurant Gugu Room Opens in New York City

The tocino burger was inspired by the chorizo counterpart of their chef friend based in Los Angeles, Charles Olalia of Ma’am Sir. They put their stamp on it by turning the beloved longganisa (sausage) and tocino (pork cutlets) into a delicious patty. “We think it is such a nostalgic bite. It reminds you of a classic Filipino breakfast. We find the burger to be very comforting, and it reminds us of home. We want the diners to feel that same comfort we had when developing and creating it,” says Dungca.

Since it appeared in the magazine, they have gotten an overwhelming number of orders and customers. In a way, it has become a delicious introduction to many who are not familiar with the cuisine.

See also: Tatler's Guide To The Best Burgers In Metro Manila 2022

“Every time I visit a city, I get asked the same question, ‘What is Filipino food?” confessed Cunanan. “I know a lot of Filipinos, in general, who get annoyed because they hear it all the time. But I think it’s our duty as leaders to promote who we are and spread Filipino awareness.”

Landing the cover of a food magazine is a leap, not a step, towards their goal of promoting Filipino food abroad. But these hardworking chefs believe there’s still a long way to go.

It isn’t bad, though, to stop and look back at how far they’ve come, to stop and smell the flowers and the success their burger has brought them.

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