When was the Milky Way first established, and where was its first outlet located?

The very first Milky Way was a dairy bar in old San Miguel owned by the Cartagena sisters, Spanish ladies who migrated to the United States. Our grandfather bought the ice cream factory from them in the 1950s. Tita Corazon “Cora” Araullo Goquingco (our mum’s eldest sister), together with our lola Epifania “Inding” Valbuena Araullo, introduced Capamamgan fare to the menu.

Mum’s dad, lolo Pancho, believed that the only way for one to succeed was to be an entrepreneur. So he encouraged our mum, Julieta “Julie” Araullo Gamboa, who was a CPA at the time, to open her own Milky Way. This would later be the Milky Way on Aguado Street, a stone’s throw away from Malacanang, which mama opened in 1962.

Where did they learn the recipes for the dishes served at the restaurant?

The dishes were their own, as well as some from my dad’s mum. Both our parents hail from Guagua, Pampanga, the country's culinary capital, famous for their cuisine.

See also: 17 Nostalgic Eateries We Will Always Remember

How does the business operate today?

Since the beginning, our grandfather believed that siblings should not be partners in business. He decided that each of his children should own their own branches of Milky Way. Our cousins, children of Tita Cora, maintain two branches in Las Piñas and in McKinley Hill. Our family manages the Arnaiz Avenue and Rockwell Power Plant branches, where we, the four siblings, run the day-to-day operations: I am the general manager, J is the executive chef, Popsie is involved in purchasing and packaging requirements, and Gina is the lawyer who handles all legal, immigration, and labour issues.

What was the reception like when Milky Way Cafe first opened? When would you say it clicked with the market then? 

Milky Way was an instant success. The ice cream, sherbets, and dishes served were so popular that they were always encouraged to keep adding menu dishes. Milky Way evolved from an ice cream parlour to a short-order restaurant to a turo-turo offering 350 entrees, 220 soups and salads, 180 desserts, and 72 sandwiches.

What would you say are Milky Way Cafe’s most iconic dishes? Why?

Milky Way is most famous for the big and best halo-halo, the avocado ice cream, buco lechias sherbet and the chicken asparagus sandwich. Milky Way instantly comes to mind when these menu items come up in conversation. Today's most popular dishes are the crispy hito with mustasa salad and the guinumis dessert.

See also: Flavours of My Youth: Margarita Forés Revisits the Dishes That Shaped Her Childhood

When did Milky Way Group open its subsequent restaurants Cirkulo, Tsukiji, and Azuthai? What inspired you to open these other establishments?

In the late 1980s, our parents often took us to New Musashi, a hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant on Pasay Road serving authentic Japanese dishes that were not otherwise found in Manila then. It was the first time we were introduced to gindara, exotic sashimi like hamachi and toro, and shabu-shabu. My parents had already built the Milky Way Building on Pasay Road and had space for a new concept on the 3rd floor. My parents and the Katayamas opened Tsukiji in 1989 and became the instant favourite of Japanese ex-pats who craved authentic Japanese dishes they used to have back home.

After finishing [my studies abroad] it was time to come home and open my own restaurant. I was tasked to come up with a concept that would not compete with the existing restaurants in the building yet be a popular choice for lunch, dinner, and late-night dining. On a trip with my best friends, it was in Madrid that I discovered tapas. I was impressed with how people enjoyed it for lunch, with cocktails, a light dinner, or a late-night snack. I knew immediately that was what I wanted to bring to Manila. And so, El Cirkulo first opened its red, round doors on August 1, 1995, as Manila’s first tapas bar.

With the growing popularity and appreciation of Thai cuisine among Filipinos in the 2000s, Milky Way brought in two Thai cooks and opened Azuthai Restaurant, serving home-style Thai fare. Chef J and Popsie, along with two Filipino cooks, took Thai cooking lessons in Bangkok in preparation for Azuthai’s opening. They also travelled around with architect Gary Coscolluela to get inspiration for the restaurant’s design. Azuthai opened in 2011 and Azuthai is proud to be a recipient of the Thai Select Award by the Thai Trade Center.

See also: Notable Food Regions in the Philippines (and the Dishes to Try When You Visit)

What would you consider to be the group’s greatest milestone thus far?

COVID-19 has forced us to do business differently. Our Tsukiji sushi and sashimi platters have been the most popular gifts for special friends and family. Our latest hit is the Milky Way halo-halo kit which has all the ingredients (even the shaved ice!) packaged separately for a DIY experience in the comfort of your home. It’s been a tough two years with many adjustments for all, but COVID-19 seems to have made us express our love and appreciation through food, now more than ever. 

We are grateful that our loyal clientele is back in full force. It is heartwarming to see them return with their children, and for some, even their grandchildren! They know our staff by name, as many have been with us since day one. We are all so honoured and thrilled to be part of their lives and feel that our restaurants have come full circle in more ways than one.

See also: The Secret to Longevity in F&B: Hear From Mario’s, Alba’s, and The Aristocrat Restaurant

What was the key to your success? How has the group sustained such a loyal and vocal following throughout the years across all brands?

We survived the past two years because of our ability to respond quickly to ever-changing situations. We also never stopped believing that better days are ahead in God’s perfect time. Our staff stayed with us throughout, as they knew that they would be taken care of throughout the pandemic.

Milky Way, Cirkulo, Azuthai, and Tsukiji have thrived for so long because we focus on consistently bringing the highest calibre of food and service to all our customers with every meal. We are present and involved in the day-to-day operations to make sure no one drops the ball, or if we do, we ensure to fix the situation as best as we can. I am proudest of our very loyal staff, many of whom have been with us since the beginning. Many have said that our staying power is thanks to the happiness and ambience of home we have fostered in our restaurants. In addition, it is also because of our ability to quickly respond to new situations and make the most of each moment at hand.

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