Malu Gamboa
Cover Malu Gamboa of the family-run Milky Way Group

From fresh produce at the market to nostalgia-inducing dishes near and dear to her heart, restaurateur Malu Gamboa shares her foodie’s guide to Baguio

As the restaurateur behind Milky Way Cafe, Azuthai, Cirkulo, and Tsukiji, Malu Gamboa certainly does her family proud by honouring the legacy of her late mother, Julie. Now a legendary dining institution, Milky Way first opened the doors of its original outlet in 1962. Today, many of the comforting Filipino dishes the brand is known for follow the same treasured family recipes, this time dished up by the group’s executive chef J Gamboa, the matriarch’s youngest.

The venerable family-run restaurant group then expanded with the celebrated Japanese destination Tsukiji in the late 80s, tapas bar Cirkulo in the decade that followed, and finally, home-style Thai outlet Azuthai thirteen years after. Naturally, the Gamboas were raised as foodies through and through, introduced to gastronomic delights from a young age.

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“If I were to introduce foreigners to Filipino food, I would begin with the simplest of Pinoy breakfast fare: the ubiquitous sweet beef tapa, glistening red tender tocino bites, or crispy fried dilis,” shares Malu Gamboa. “As a child, I remember admiring a glistening piece of red meat with a sunny side up egg in my mum’s original Milky Way on Aguado Street in old San Miguel.”

Here, we speak with the respected restaurateur about her love for Baguio, a regular out-of-town holiday destination for the family.

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Tatler Asia
Fresh produce from one of Baguio’s many markets
Above Fresh produce from one of Baguio’s many markets
Tatler Asia
Above Sea lavenders or statice from the market

Where do you normally stay when you visit Baguio?

Our home is on a quiet street off Mines View Park.

What do you consider to be the must-try dish from your region?

Since Baguio is the market basket of the country, one must indulge in the fresh vegetables and crops of the region. Our first stop is always the market, where we buy mushrooms, talbos ng sayote, and other produce; then we pair them with Milky Way frozen food, which we bring from home.

What do you consider to be the most underrated dish from your region?

Pinakbet, they cook it so well here, keeping the vegetables crisp.

See also: Bacolod Travelogue: Everything You Have to Eat (and Where to Get It)

What is the one pasalubong you always bring back with you when you visit?

Statice [flowers], strawberries, and walis from the market.

What is one ingredient you long for from the region that you cannot (or cannot easily) find in Manila, if any?

Somehow, the delicious Sagada oranges do not make it to Manila!

What are your favourite eateries in that region? Why?

The Verandah at the Baguio Country Club is nostalgic. It reminds me of the summers when my parents brought us to Baguio. We would have lunch there and wait for Dad to finish playing golf.

Cafe by the Ruins is an institution for me, with all the authentic Baguio feels. I look forward to breakfasts of tinapang bangus, kamote bread, fish paté, and Ruins coffee.

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