Cover Chef Paolo Dungca (Photo Will Blunt)
Chef Paolo Dungca (Photo Will Blunt)
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With three restaurants under his belt (including one with James Beard Awardee Tom Cunanan), chef Paolo Dungca is steadily rising the ranks in the American capital
Chef Paolo Dungca hails from San Fernando, Pampanga—the foodie’s paradise often celebrated as the country’s culinary capital. But it wasn’t until he moved to Los Angeles that he got a taste of the hustle and bustle of the kitchen, one that stirred an unquenchable hunger ever since. That momentous experience? A summer job working as a dishwasher at Disneyland.
“I fell in love with the chaos that comes with a busy service at restaurants and wanted to be a part of it,” Dungca recalls. After a spontaneous move to Washington, DC, Dungca wasted no time diving into the local culinary scene, fattening his portfolio however he could. It was here that Dungca would work at Bad Saint, the restaurant once recognised as number two in the country, helmed by none other than James Beard Awardee and fellow Filipino chef Tom Cunanan.
See also: Meet Don Baldosano, the 23-Year-Old Chef Behind Modern Filipino Restaurant 'Linamnam'
Cassava cake with aligue, mangalista lardo, and ikura (Photo Will Blunt)
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After a trip to the Philippines in 2019, Dungca’s passion for cooking Filipino cuisine was reinvigorated and he reconnected with Cunanan once again soon after. What birthed from this kismet rekindling is Pogiboy: a fast-casual outlet serving Filipino burgers, sandwiches, spaghetti, and rice bowls, run and owned by the dynamic duo. Additionally, Dungca also runs a quaint pasta bar, Picoletto. However, the chef is perhaps most busy with his upscale progressive-Filipino restaurant, which opened its doors just last week. Called ‘Hiraya’, which means “the fruit of one’s hopes, dreams, and aspirations”, the restaurant boasts a Filipino tasting menu that evolves with the seasons.
“My restaurants’ philosophy is to cook Filipino food with the utmost integrity and to continue to push our cuisine to the forefront,” beams Dungca. “We also want to inspire other chefs to want to cook their own cuisine, and educate everyone about how great [Filipino] food is.”
Witness chef Dungca wax poetic about the Filipino food he longs for, the Philippines restaurants on his bucket list, and the essential ingredient he brings back with him to DC, here:
See also: The Food Evangelists: Meet The People Promoting Filipino Cuisine Across The Globe
What do you miss most on the food/drink front when you are away from the Philippines or haven’t been back for a while?
What I miss most about food in the Philippines are the grilled street foods and the small ‘mom-and-pop’ turo-turo eateries. I grew up eating at those spots and it brings back family nostalgia for me.
What is the first dish you want to eat when you return, and where do you go for it?
The first dish I always would want to eat is my lola Cita’s tripe kare-kare! That was one of the many things I would ask her to make for me when we were living in Pampanga, and that dish holds a special place in my heart. It reminds me of home every time.
Do you have a favourite restaurant in the Philippines? For fine dining and for more casual experiences?
From our visit in 2019, my favourite restaurants in the Philippines were Mecha Uma, Sarsa, and Wildflour. I loved the dining experience at Mecha Uma, seating at the chef’s counter where you see chef Bruce Ricketts with his team curating the menu right in front of you. At Sarsa, I really enjoyed chef JP Anglo’s sizzling kansi, isaw, La Paz batchoy, and inasal. Lastly, I loved all the pasta and desserts that chef Allen Buhay is whipping up at Wildflour.
See also: A Taste Of Home: Cheryl Tiu-Snyder’s Favourite Places To Eat In The Philippines
If you have visitors/guests with you, where do you go to give them a real taste of the Philippines?
I would take my guests to Dampa Seaside Market! I love the idea of going into the market and shopping for the ingredients, then having the restaurants cook it for you and feasting after that.
Do you have a favourite bar and/or café in the Philippines?
I would say Agimat at Ugat Foraging Bar. I'm a big fan of Kalel Demetrio’s drinks!
Any other must-visit food/drink spots when you are back?
I would love to try and visit all of chef Margarita Fores’ restaurants!
Do you take any food or treats back home with you from the Philippines?
Yes! In 2019, I took home four jars of aligue from Pampanga. I fell in love with how versatile this condiment is! It’s been one of my favourites ever since I was introduced by my ate Iggy when we visited my grandparents.
Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home where you live?
When I’m craving Filipino comfort food vibes, I usually go to my friends’ restaurants: Kuya Ja’s Lechon Belly in Rockville and Matthew’s Grill in Gaithersburg. These spots just hit home for me, and it reminds me of what true Filipino hospitality is all about.
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About
Lauren’s love for food came much later in life than one would expect— an obsession awakened in the streets of Melbourne’s multicultural dining scene. Armed with this newfound passion, she returned to the Philippines determined to discover the best eats in her home country, with a personal advocacy to champion local cuisines and homegrown talent. Nothing is off-limits; if it’s delicious, it’s worth celebrating.
Work
As Tatler Dining associate editor, Lauren covers all things food and drink, from listing the latest openings in our monthly Dining Radar to interviewing chefs and bartenders about the biggest obstacles crippling the industry today. Beyond the digital space, she also organises Tatler Dining’s tentpole events, including Off Menu and Tatler Dining Kitchen, as well as the annual Tatler Best Philippines awards night and guide launch, detailing the best restaurants in the country.
For leads and event invites, contact her via lauren@tatlerphilippines.com or follow her on Instagram at @laurengolangco.
Photo: Ralph Mendo
